Close to nature in the west of Ireland

Leave the city behind and head for one of the least inhabited parts of Europe for some healthy outdoor family fun. By Bernadette Fallon

As a family holiday destination our next-door Irish neighbour is often overlooked in favour of our continental cousins. Sure, Dublin is a much fêted weekend destination, but beyond this lively city, where the craic flows freely alongside the Guinness, there is a gorgeous landscape of unspoilt countryside and stunning beaches to explore – a great place to travel with kids.

 

The west coast of Ireland, stretching from Kerry in the south to Donegal in the north, is the least inhabited part of the country - encounter huge tracts of land where the land meets the sea with nothing in-between and enjoy quiet beaches, scenic drives, welcoming country towns and a very relaxed pace of life. Seafood lovers will find a haven in rural pubs or tiny harbour cafés where the catch of the day is unloaded a mere matter of hours before it reaches the plate.

 

Children are welcome all over, and it's not unusual to see children in bars throughout rural Ireland. And though the ongoing boom in the Irish economy has brought with it a steep rise in prices in recent years, plenty of competition in the hospitality market offers a good choice of price bands to choose from.

 

Easy access

You can fly direct to the west of Ireland and bypass the cross-country drive from Dublin; Aer Lingus and Ryanair operate daily flights from the UK to Shannon in Co Clare. Shannon is, apparently, the home of the Irish coffee, created for transatlantic passengers making a stopover and needing something more than mere caffeine to keep them going!

 

Castle spotting

Not only is Clare a coastal county, it is also home to over 250 castles, among which Bunratty is the most famous. Sign the family up for a medieval banquet at this 15th-century fortress, once Oliver Cromwell's base in Ireland; though be warned, you'll find plenty of other revellers doing the same so Knappogue Castle , near Quin, about 10km outside the main county town of Ennis, may be a better bet for your banquet.

 

Bunratty is also worth visiting for its folk park, a reconstructed traditional Irish village, complete with working craftsmen. Join in the summer ceilis – traditional music and group dancing where everyone is invited to join in.

 

If you are splashing out on a luxury break, Dromoland Castle is consistently rated one of the Top 10 Hotels in the world by Condé Nast 'Traveller'. It's set in 220 hectares of beautiful gardens with its own 18-hole golf course.

 

Head for the coast

Clare's costal drives are spectacular and the beaches offer lots of great holiday pastimes – from lazing on sands that stretch for miles (May and September are often the sunniest months in Ireland) to more active pursuits such as surfing, scuba diving and seaside horse riding. Driving along the coast from the vast stretches of beach at Spanish Point to Lahinch (a well-known surfers haunt) brings you to the Cliffs of Moher, one of the most spectacular spots in Ireland, rising steeply from the sea to 203 metres at their highest point.

 

Bracing walks along the cliff edge are not for the faint-hearted, but stunning views make the effort well worth it. There's a visitor centre with café and gift shop, though expect to share the vista with bustling crowds in summer.

 

Doolin

Continue along the coast to Doolin, a tiny village where you will find some of the best traditional Irish music in the country. Musicians from all over the world make the trip to this mecca; don't miss the chance to check out the unique sounds and atmosphere for yourself. Accommodation in the local B&Bs and guesthouses is at a premium during the summer months, so book ahead – the caravan and camping park at the harbour offers a good alternative for families.

 

The Burren

Doolin is the ideal base from which to explore the Burren, a unique and arresting landscape, home to many rare floral and fauna. It is the most extensive limestone region in the British Isles, and once formed the bottom of a warm sea. Almost 500 ring forts dot the Burren , which also boasts around 65 megalithic tombs. Explore the area by taking a guided nature, archaeological or wilderness walk, and make learning fun for the kids. The 'green roads' crisscrossing the limestone landscape are ideal for mountain biking.

 

Fanore, Black Head and Ballyvaughan

Back along the coast road, Fanore has a quiet beach for swimming, while further north along the same spectacular stretch of road, Black Head offers the chance to do a bit of shore fishing – keep an eye out for the dolphins that sometimes come close to land. Heading towards the Clare Galway border, perched picturesquely on the edge of Galway Bay, is the small fishing village of Ballyvaughan – a seafood
lovers' paradise.

 

Aillwee Caves

Navigate Corkscrew Hill (built as a famine relief project during the Irish potato famine of the 19th century, when the country's population dropped by several million due to death and emigration) to the Aillwee mountain; take a guided tour of the caves, a good family activity for a wet afternoon.

 

The coast drive from Ballyvaughan into neighbouring county Galway is quite stunning, the road winding through sea inlets and peninsulas – it's well worth taking a detour to New Quay on the way for some amazing scenery and great walks. Go otter spotting at the Flaggy Shore, west of New Quay, or check out the seal life at
nearby Bellharbour.

 

Lisdoonvarna spa and mineral springs

Inland from Doolin, the small town of Lisdoonvarna is worth a visit. It's famous for its matchmaking festival in September because the local bachelors have no time to think about love until the hay is saved at the end of the summer! It's also famous for its mineral springs, which people have visited for centuries to both bathe in and drink. Said to be good for a whole variety of ailments including rheumatism and gland complaints, check out the Victorian spa complex and health centre with its sulphur spring, Victorian pump house, massage, sauna and
mineral baths.

 

Find your ancestry

Nearby the tiny village of Kilfenora is home to the world-famous Kilfenora ceili band; further inland, Corofin on the southern edge of the Burren, is the place to research your local ancestry – the Clare Heritage and Genealogical Centre also has a display covering the period around the potato famine.

 

More information

Click on individual links above for more information on all of the attractions listed or visit Tourism Ireland which also has information on accommodation, events and travel offers.