Escape to the Quantock Hills

Rising above the eerie flatness of the Somerset Levels, the Quantocks pack an amazing amount into 99 square kilometres of heathland, woods, deep coombs, ancient parkland and historic coastline. Running from Taunton to the Bristol Channel, the uplands exude a sense of wildness - there are no fences up here, just an endless network of pathways weaving their way through the verdant landscape. By Hester Lacey

  Photo: Visit BritainGoing for the weekend

The Quantocks' compact proportions make them perfect for a short visit; pass through Taunton or Bridgwater, head off the main roads and you are in the heart of the hills.

The Coleridge Connection
Samuel Taylor Coleridge had a deep affection for the Quantocks (it was here that he wrote Kubla Khan and The Rime of the Ancient Mariner). The Coleridge Way, which opened in 2005, starts in Nether Stowey at Coleridge Cottage, the house that was once his home, now a museum owned by The National Trust (01278 732662). It passes via Alfoxton, near Holford, the mansion (now a hotel) where Coleridge's friends William and Dorothy Wordsworth lived for a time, and on towards Watchet, where a statue of the Ancient Mariner overlooks the harbour. Coleridge was a formidable walker, tramping for miles every day. Happily, the 36-mile trail divides up into manageable chunks - download a comprehensive, to-scale guide at www.quantockonline.co.uk. The Romantic Poets are not the only local literary link - Evelyn Waugh lived in the village of Combe Florey from 1956 and is buried there.

Fossil hunting
Walk along the beach at Kilve or at Helwell Bay near Watchet and you may stumble across an ammonite or a ‘devil's toenail'. The rapidly eroding cliffs along this coast mean that fossils are frequently exposed: most are lost to the sea, so if collectors find them first, it's fine to take them home. Fossil maps are available from Watchet Tourist Information (01984 632101) and there are displays of finds at Watchet station and in the Watchet Market House Museum (01984 631345). Other popular coastal spots include St Audries Bay and Shurton Bars beach, with sand and rockpools, perfect for a summer barbecue.

Country culture
Somerset Art Week (01460 259324; www.somersetartweek.org.uk) runs biennially, with exhibitions by local painters, potters, photographers, jewellers and sculptors. This year's festival takes place 8-28 September. Glastonbury's Somerset Rural Life Museum (01458 831197) gives insights into Victorian life in the area, with willow growing, peat cutting and cider making.

Gardens of delight
One of England's most beautiful gardens, Hestercombe (01823 413923; www.hestercombe.com), near Taunton, was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and planted by Gertrude Jekyll and is widely considered their joint masterpiece. It has formal Edwardian gardens, an orangery, a pergola and over 40 acres of landscaped gardens, with events through the year. For other local gardens, go to www.visitsouthsomerset.com/gardens.

Right on track
You don't need to be a loco buff to enjoy the charms of the West Somerset Railway (01643 704996; www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk), which runs from Bishops Lydeard to Minehead. At 20 miles long, it is Britain's longest working heritage railway. It crosses excellent walking country and many of the ten stations on its route are worth a stop-off: Crowcombe Heathfield has featured in various films and won awards for its restoration project by local volunteers; Stogumber's goods shed has been restored as a garden and there's a nice pub in the village, a 20-minute stroll from the station; while the little town of Williton boasts the Bakelite Museum (01984 632133; www.bakelite museum.co.uk), the UK's largest collection of vintage plastics, at Orchard Mill, 25 minutes' walk from the station. Cream teas are also available.

Escape essentials
Ordnance Survey Explorer 140: Quantock Hills and Bridgwater (1:25,000 scale, for walking and cycling), Ordnance Survey Landranger 181, Minehead and Brendon Hills (1:50,000 scale for driving and route planning)

Tourist information

• Bridgwater Tourist Information, Bridgwater House, King Square, Bridgwater (01278 436438; www.visitsomerset.co.uk). Open weekdays only.

• Taunton Tourist Information, The Library, Paul Street, Taunton (01823 336344). Open Monday-Saturday.

• Nether Stowey's library (01278 732741), in the former schoolhouse off Castle Street, is also a good source of information (closed Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday), as is www.quantockonline.co.uk, the website run by local residents Simon and Teresa Youé.

• Walks & Forks (01458 251060; www.walksandforks.co.uk). Enjoy a walking holiday in the Quantocks without the hassle of carrying your bags around, staying in B&Bs selected for their food and ambience. Daily guided walks by a local expert take you along less well known routes - always with a scenic stop for a picnic lunch.

Places to stay

• Honeysuckle Cottage and The Mouse House West Bagborough (01823 432996; www.quantocksholidaycottages.co.uk). Honeysuckle Cottage (two bedrooms) and The Mouse House (one) have access to a swimming pool, tennis court and grounds with stunning views for picnicking, with The Rising Sun pub 200 yards down the road. One week high season: The Mouse House £504; Honeysuckle Cottage £523.

• Stogursey Castle Stogursey (01628 825925; www.landmarktrust.org.uk). The castle is a ruin (above), but the gatehouse is owned by The Landmark Trust. Up to four people sharing; self-catering; dogs permitted. One week high season £1,854.

• Stowey Brooke House Nether Stowey (01278 733356; www.stoweybrooke house.co.uk). This cosy five-star B&B with one twin and two double ensuite rooms uses local produce for its fine breakfasts. From £55 per night for two sharing.

• Halswell House, Goathurst (0870 620 1066; www.halswell.co.uk). You can hire this Grade I-listed building (above) for a house party or a wedding and luxuriate in bedrooms furnished in period style; or, more affordably, book a cottage on the estate. One week high season: Halswell Lodge (sleeps four) £1,155; Park Head, formerly the forge (sleeps eight) £2,055.

Places to eat

• Clavelshay Barn Restaurant North Petherton (01278 662629; www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk). Local ingredients, including beef raised by owners Bill and Sue Milverton, are used with flair in this popular restaurant in an old stone barn.

• Té House Bistro Nether Stowey (01278 732424). Modestly priced, tasty dishes featuring local and seasonal produce. The menu changes weekly and the breakfasts (served March-October) are delicious, too.

• Chantry Tea Gardens Kilve (01278 741457). Wander down to what was described by Wordsworth as "Kilve's delightful shore" after taking tea here.

• The Blue Ball Inn Triscombe (01984 618242; www.blueballinn.co.uk). Enjoy local meat, good fish and vegetarian options and an excellent selection of Somerset cheeses, plus views across to the Brendon Hills.

• Other recommended restaurants and pubs: Plough Inn, Holford (01278 741232), the Castle of Comfort, Dodington (01278 741264; www.castle-of-comfort.co.uk) and Podshavers Barn, Bishops Lydeard (01823 433556).

Subscribe Save up to 47%

Related Articles

Recycled chic: transform...

Give fresh life to pieces past their best

Recycled chic: shelving...

Give fresh life to pieces past their best

Recycled chic: half-moon table

Give fresh life to pieces past their best

Country Living | in the country | places to stay | Southwest | UK travel

Print | Email

 

To	(*)
Email	(*)
From	(*)
Email	(*)
Message	Max 250 words

Comments