A weekend in... Morecambe

The regeneration of the Midland Hotel, an Art-Deco masterpiece, means this Lancashire resort is once again the destination for a thoroughly modern mini-break. By David Atkinson

 
There's a wind of change blowing in off the bay in Morecambe. The town boomed in the mid-19th century as a resort and became an architectural pace setter in the 1930s, when the Art-Deco movement influenced its buildings. The pièce de résistance was the iconic Midland Hotel, where, in its pre-war heyday, the glitterati, from Coco Chanel to Wallis Simpson, were rumoured to have sipped cocktails while enjoying views across the sands to Cumbria. The Midland was a destination in its own right.

 
It first opened in 1933, featuring murals by the sculptor Eric Gill and rugs by textile artist Marion Dorn, both adorned with the famous seahorse motif that became the hotel's trademark. It was unabashedly chic, airy and light, with the original architect, Oliver Hill, eschewing the clinical feel of some Modernist buildings to create a vision in chrome, marble and glass. The curved structure hugged the contours of the Victorian promenade and the floor-to-ceiling glass windows offered maximum exposure to the legendary Morecambe sunset. Sadly, like Morecambe itself, the Midland slowly slipped into hibernation, but now they're both stirring from their slumbers.

 
This summer, the Midland reopened, following an £11 million refurbishment by property developer Urban Splash and the new byword for the resort is regeneration. Today, the hotel retains the visual impact of the original incarnation but adds a 20th-century twist, combining the Art-Deco façade with the contemporary interior of a boutique hotel. Some locals may be unsure about the angular lobby furniture but everyone applauds the fact that Gill's artworks have been restored to their original splendour. The stone mural of Odysseus once more stands proud behind the reception desk, and the elaborate ceiling medallion is the crowning glory of the sweeping staircase. Even Dorn's mosaic seahorses again frolic on the floors and fittings.

 
Of the 44 bedrooms, six are rooftop suites with unique features - the honeymoon suite even has a hot tub on a roof terrace. ‘My personal reaction today is probably in keeping with that of those first visitors,' smiles Peter Wade, a local historian who leads walking tours around Morecambe. ‘The interior is very modern now, but it was very Modernist in the 1930s and people were taken aback then, too.'

 
After a drink in the purple and fuchsia-hued booths of the Rotunda Bar, I took dinner among the minimalist white tables of the restaurant. Choosing from a menu of British favourites, I opted for Morecambe Bay potted shrimps and Cumberland sausage and mash, while the sun flooded the all-glass rear of the building with flame-hued rays.

 
The next morning, I had a date with Evelyn Archer, head of the Friends of The Winter Gardens, the Grade II-listed theatre, which is Morecambe's other Art-Deco gem. Built in 1897, Laurel and Hardy graced the stage in its heyday. The Friends have already secured £12 million to revive the theatre's faded façade and they believe they can re-open as a multi-purpose venue. ‘I'm a Morecambe lass and have watched the town decline,' says Evelyn, as she climbs faded marble staircases and moves through Art-Deco lounges on a tour of the venue. ‘But now, we're finding a new niche and highlighting all the attractions of the bay.'

 
Leading the charge is Cedric Robinson MBE, the Queen's Guide to the Sands who, by royal appointment, has been leading guided walks across the potentially hazardous sands of Morecambe Bay since 1963. The walks start from the seaside village of Arnside, about ten miles north of Morecambe, and finish at Kents Bank - a journey of around eight miles.

 
It's still early days to speak of a total renaissance for Morecambe but the signs are good. The re-opening of the Midland has brought a confidence and energy, and, with a new generation of visitors forming a groundswell for the revival of British resorts, maybe Morecambe's true glory days are yet to come.

 
Midland Hotel, Marine Road West, Morecambe, Lancs (01524 424000, midlandmorecambe.co.uk). Double B&B with sea view from £119; suites from £159.

 

First 24 hours

Walk this way The Echoes of Art Deco guided walk (01524 420905) is a two-hour walking tour of Morecambe, exploring the surviving Art-Deco buildings and the history of the town. Tours start and end with the Midland Hotel, taking in the former Littlewoods department store building and the site of the former swimming baths complex en route. Tickets cost £2.50.

 

Get some air Start with a trot along the promenade, Marine Road, to fill the lungs with fresh sea air. The comedian Eric Morecambe (he changed his surname from Bartholomew as a homage to his home town) is captured in bronze in classic Bring Me Sunshine pose, and is now the focus point for daytrippers - catch the statue at dusk for the light show.

 

Step back in time The Winter Gardens (01524 422180 www.thewintergardensmorecambe.co.uk) theatre is seeking major funding for regeneration. Meanwhile, it opens on weekends for hard-hat tours of the building and a rousing pep talk from the Friends of The Winter Gardens on their grand plans for the iconic venue. Tickets at £3 contribute to the restoration fund.

 

Lazy Sunday

Follow the birds The Tern Project (www.tern.org.uk) kick-started the regeneration bandwagon, erecting public artworks along the five-mile seafront based around the birdlife of Morecambe Bay, namely a curlew, oystercatcher and turnstone. Follow the trail along the promenade from the stone jetty to the light gallery, tracing the stone-statue wildlife en route.

 

Potter for shrimps Poulton Village, a maze of fishermen's cottages, wrought-iron-façade shops and maritime murals, located just behind the promenade, is the town's original settlement. Try browsing the specialist local shops and stock up on potted shrimps at The Shrimp Shop on Poulton Square.

 

Catch it if you can Throughout October, the RSPB Nature Reserve at Leighton Moss, Silverdale (01524 701601, www.rspb.org.uk), located about ten miles from Morecambe, is hosting Bearded Tit walks to explore the wildlife of the region. Tickets: adults, £4.50, RSPB members, £2.

 

Fact file

Where to eat

Artisan Café, 296 Marine Road Central (01524 417954) This
mobile-phone-free café for lunches and snacks has a front-parlour feel, good coffee and a Mediterranean motif to the menu.

Brucciani's, 217 Marine Road West (01524 421386) An Art-Deco café, featuring the original oak panelling, Bakelite fittings and Formica tabletops. Soak up the atmosphere over a knickerbocker glory.

Chill, 229 Marine Road Central (01524 424381) Living up to its name, this friendly little café has smoothies, coffees and snacks with equally impressive sea views.

Pebbles at the Crown Hotel, 239 Marine Road Central (01524 831841, www.thecrownhotelmorecambe.co.uk/pebbles.html) With a view across the bay and a menu of local produce, Pebbles is a solid option. Catch the special menu - three courses for £14.95, served 6-8pm, Monday to Friday.

The Borough, 3 Dalton Square, Lancaster (01524 64170, www.theboroughlancaster.co.uk) Further afield in neighbouring Lancaster, The Borough is a no-nonsense gastropub for hearty pub fare and CAMRA-lauded, hand-pulled ales.

 

Getting there

Morecambe is accessed from junction 34 of the M6. It's a ten-minute rail journey from train hub Lancaster on the West Coast Main Line or £10 by taxi. You can get more details from Virgin Trains (0845 722 2333, www.virgintrains.co.uk). For tourist information, contact the helpful Morecambe Visitor Information Centre, Old Station Buildings, Marine Road Central (01524 582808, www.citycoastcountryside.co.uk).

 

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