A weekend in...St David's

Looking for a low-carbon, British beach break? Head to this bijou, eco-friendly city in West Wales for pristine strands, divine local produce and sustainable places to stay

 
There are few better places to find yourself on a summer's day than Britain's smallest city. St David's, a community of just two thousand people at the westernmost point of Wales, sits in an unspoilt landscape in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. This is a stretch of coast that lends itself to outdoor and aquatic pursuits - thanks to the 186-mile Coastal Path that winds through dramatic scenery - and summery pleasures, with more Blue Flag beaches, Green Coast and Seaside Awards than any other UK region. Outstanding beaches include the broad, surf-friendly sweep of Whitesands Bay (go there to watch the sun set on a warm evening) and the smaller cove of Caerfai, perfect for rockpooling and hugged by cliffs of purple sandstone. 

 

That same sandstone was used to build the imposing 12th-century cathedral at the heart of St David's, creating a contemplative site in the valley of the River Alun, which also includes the ruin of the medieval Bishop's Palace. This is where David, patron saint of Wales, is said to have founded a sixth-century monastery and introduced Celtic Christianity to Wales. The cathedral, which has long been a draw for spiritual travellers (two pilgrimages here were deemed equal to one to Rome), is what gained St David's its city status in 1995, though in reality it's a bustling village, with just one pub and a handful of independent shops, mostly geared to outdoor activities and superb food.

 

This remote, diminutive city has four entries in the current Good Food Guide - more per head of population than anywhere else in Britain - and divine local produce is widely promoted. At its delicatessen, St David's Food and Wine, you can stock up on locally sourced picnic fare, such as rolls filled with award-winning Pembrokeshire cheeses, and beer from the Penlon microbrewery a few miles up the coast, while the best restaurants, such as Morgan's and Cwtch, list suppliers on their websites. This is not simply lip service to the fashionable eco-theme: Morgan's, for example, sources everything it possibly can from within the county.

 

Sustainability is a key issue here, as St David's aspires to become the world's first carbon-neutral city, and is already home to the first organic hotel in Wales. The recently opened £3 million Pembrokeshire Landscape Gallery, Oriel Y Parc, is a thoroughly green build, with a sedum and turf roof, solar panels, rainwater collection and ground source heating. Plus, this month, the Really Wild Festival returns for the fourth year, celebrating food and crafts from the wild, and will include foraging walks along the shoreline, a bushcraft camp and wild food menus from local chefs.

 

If you're keen to reduce your holidaying carbon footprint, and to stay within easy walking distance of everything in St David's, the newly renovated Granary and Forge are ideal self-catering options. Conservation specialists worked on the restoration using local materials, and the result is impressive: in what was formerly a blacksmith's forge, there's a snug apartment for two, complete with a freestanding French copper bath, while upstairs is a two-storey flat affording views of the cathedral and out to sea, sleeping six. Both feature slate floors, oak doors, exposed stone walls, underfloor heating and luxurious design details. Like the gem of a tiny city they're part of, these stylish apartments marry a sense of history with modern-day comforts and pleasures.

Three nights at the Forge cost from £203; at the Granary from £402. To book, call 01225 862450 or visit spaced-out.biz/granary.

 

The first 24 hours

Go dolphin spotting Ramsey Island Voyages (01437 721911, www.ramseyisland.co.uk/boat tours) offers unmissable, exhilarating boat trips on powerful inflatables from St David's around the Pembrokeshire coast to remote spots, offshore islands, sea caves and wildlife colonies. Advance booking is essential in high season.

Set your pulse racing The outdoor activities company TYF Adventure (1 High Street, 01427 721611, www.tyf.com) has challenges on the local coastline for all abilities. Try the one-day Coastal Explorer, an adrenaline-pumping taster of sea kayaking, coasteering and snorkelling, with lunch on a beach accessible only from the water.

Walk the coastal path The 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path was given National Park status in 1952, and sections near St David's offer exceptionally beautiful terrain for walkers. The stretch from nearby St Justinian's to the natural harbour at Porthclais (a café is open in summer here) is exquisite. Cormorants, seals, puffins and wild flowers abound. 

 

Lazy Sunday

Canter on the sand Visit the family-run Nolton Stables (01437 710360, www.noltonstables.com) for rides in stunning Pembrokeshire scenery. Explore the stable's private 35-acre wooded valley and coastal trails, then take a beach ride across the dramatic Druidstone Haven at low tide, with its glorious mile-long glistening stretch of sand.

Catch it if you can... On 30-31 August, the Really Wild Food & Countryside Festival is held at the city's football ground, featuring local food stalls, craft demonstrations, wild food cookery classes, foraging walks around hedgerows and the coast, plus a treasure hunt for children (01348 840242, www.reallywildfestival.co.uk).

Bag a stylish blanket A few miles from St David's, Melin Tregwynt (01348 891288, www.melintregwynt.co.uk) is a working wool mill used to make irresistible homeware and accessories in modern designs. The stylish blankets, cushions and throws, in Welsh double cloth weaves, adorn many a boutique hotel room. See them made and buy yourself an ultra-chic Pembrokeshire souvenir.

 

Fact file

 
Where to eat

The Bench, 11 High Street (01437 721778, www.bench-bar.co.uk). A buzzy café and Italian restaurant, which is famous for its ice cream - made using organic milk from nearby Caerfai Farm.

Cwtch, 22 High Street (01437 720491, www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk). The most stylish bar and eaterie in town and a great place for a relaxed Sunday lunch.

 
Morgan's, 20 Nun Street (01437 720508, www.morgans-restaurant.co.uk). Chef Tara Pitman's exemplary commitment to Pembrokeshire produce, home-made bread and delectable fish specials each day make this intimate eaterie a must-visit.

 
The Refectory, St David's Cathedral (01437 721760,
www.refectoryatstdavids.co.uk). A daily changing menu based on heavenly local ingredients, served canteen-style in the cathedral's medieval cloisters.

TYF Eco Hotel, Caerfai Road (01437 721678, www.tyf.com). The restaurant at this organic hotel offers impeccably sourced, sustainable dining, with plenty of meat-free options.

 

Getting there

St David's is reached by road via the M4 and A48 to Carmarthen, then by taking the A40 and A487. The nearest train station is at Fishguard (15 miles); a bus service connects to St David's (01239 613756, www.richardsbros.co.uk). For more information on the area, see www.visitwales.com.

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