Escape to the Stour Valley

Follow this reed-flanked river to discover a lush East Anglian landscape where fine churches and timber-framed houses sit among the wheat fields and water meadows. This is constable country – the perfect destination for walkers, wildlife watchers and budding artists

  Photo: Visit BritainOn one of those perfect midsummer days, a stroll along the lanes of East Anglia’s Stour valley shows you traditional English farmland in its prime. Undulating wheat fields, clusters of Friesian cattle and the reed-flanked river itself coalesce beneath the towering cloudscapes made famous by local artist John Constable. The Lower Stour marks the border between Essex and Suffolk, an area often ignored by holidaymakers intent on reaching the bleaker fringes of Suffolk and Norfolk. But turn off the A12 after Colchester and the valley’s hidden treasures are all yours.

The East Anglian Stour shares its name with three other English rivers and is pronounced to rhyme with “your”. It rises near Newmarket, flowing 47 miles to the flood barrage between Cattawade and Manningtree, where it becomes tidal for the next nine miles to Harwich and Shotley. There the estuary joins that of the Orwell in a huge natural harbour steeped in maritime history. From 1705, dredging and lockbuilding allowed unique horse-drawn lighters to ferry cargo from Sudbury down to Manningtree, making it the area’s main trade artery. The small ports of Manningtree and Mistley dealt in grain and malt, while bricks from Ballingdon (now part of Sudbury) were sailed down the coast to the “London River” to build the Albert Hall and Liverpool Street Station.

The valley’s peak of prosperity, however, was during the wool boom of the 16th and 17th centuries, and it still has a rich legacy of fine churches, timber-framed houses, barns and weavers’ cottages. The Dedham vale is now designated an area of outstanding natural beauty (AONB), and efforts are being made to reopen the Stour to pleasure boats. Downstream, at Manningtree and Mistley, the fine brick maltings built by local brewers in the 19th century are at last being renovated and restored.

Heritage
Long Melford, renowned for its picturesque three-mile high street and vast medieval church, also boasts two fine Tudor mansions. The 1578 exterior of Melford Hall (01787 376395), now owned by the National Trust, is immaculately preserved. Inside is a display devoted to Beatrix Potter, a relative of the Hall’s former owners. The nearby Kentwell Hall (01787 310207; www.kentwell.co.uk), with its Tudor and Second World War re-enactments, modern murals and generally dishevelled air (although lawns are manically litter free), will revive those who find National Trust-owned properties too decorous. In a constant state of renovation (a note dated 1991 promises two marble basins “in a few weeks” for a Roman-themed bathroom that is still basin free), this moated Tudor mansion has everything: from walled gardens and a working dairy to a 15th-century solar (upstairs bedchamber) and 1500s-style thatched hovel.

South of the Stour, England’s best-preserved Norman keep is at Hedingham Castle, 110 feet high with 12-foot thick walls (01787 460261; www.hedinghamcastle.co.uk).

Further downstream, the Mistley Towers and nearby swan fountain, both designed by Robert Adam in 1776, are all that remain of local a 18th-century landowner Richard Rigby’s ambition to turn the small port into a spa to rival Bath. Ships from as far away as Russia still dock at the quay, while the flock of mute swans, attracted by the maltings’ grain-rich overflow, still graze along The Walls. (Do indulge in a cone from Peter’s Ice Cream van, the best in the area.)

Downstream, at Bradfield, St Lawrence church houses a poignant memorial to local hero Commander Edwin Harris Dunning, who, during the First World War, was the first man to land a plane successfully on the deck of a ship. Sadly, he died on the third go.

The Mayflower set sail for the Americas from the ancient port of Harwich, with a local master and a large Dedham contingent, in 1620. (Though Plymouth is usually cited as the port of departure; it is now thought that following a problem with contaminated water on board, the ship turned around and docked in Plymouth to pick up the Pilgrim Fathers.) The maritime trail around the old town includes a 17th-century treadwheel crane; the Navyard Wharf, where men’o’war were built from 1660 to 1827; the Redoubt Fort, built in 1808 to protect the harbour from Napoleon, and the Ha’penny pier and quay, where the first continental ferries were launched.

Artists
The lush countryside and huge, ever-changing skies have inspired generations of painters besides Constable. The former silk-weaving centre of Sudbury, almost entirely encircled by the Stour, was the home town of Thomas Gainsborough (1727-1788), and his statue stands in the market place. You can visit the largest collection of his work at Gainsborough’s House, 46 Gainsborough Street (01787 372958;  www.gainsborough.org).

The restricted opening times frustrate many visitors, but make an effort to see the Sir Alfred Munnings Art Museum (01206 322127; www.siralfredmunnings.co.uk) in Dedham, which houses works by the early-20th-century equestrian painter, who also recorded many scenes of local life. Among the many eccentric delights is the photograph of a charity lunch the Munnings laid on for the benefit of deprived East-End dogs.

Wildlife
The National Trust has taken over many of the water a meadows around Flatford Mill, where you can see the last remaining Friesian cattle, “as painted by Constable”. Mistley Place Park (01206 396048), in the remains of the Rigby estate, has rescued more than 2,000 farmyard animals (including the Tamworth Two).

The RSPB’s Stour Estuary nature reserve (01473 328006; www.rspb.org.uk), between Wrabness and Ramsey on the Essex side of the estuary, harbours woodpeckers, bluebells and butterflies, and from September to March flocks of wading birds and wildfowl roost and feed at Copperas Bay.

River life
At East Bergholt and Sudbury you can charter boats (01206 392656, 01787 372602 and 01787 313199). The Shotley/ Harwich/Felixstowe ferry (www.harwichharbourferry.com) criss-crosses Harwich harbour all summer, docking at Felixstowe beach like a D-Day landing craft.

Shopping
Long Melford is famous for its antique shops, while at the seaside, the Harwich Antiques Centre (01255 554719; www.worldwideantiques.co.uk) is full of local curios.

Dedham Centre (01206 322666; www.dedhamartandcraftcentre.co.uk) may be housed in a disused United Reform church from which Pevsner always averted his gaze, but inside is a vast range of crafts and artwork, from jewellery to bow ties.

The Cottage Garden (01206 272269) in Boxted sells unusual homegrown plants, while the topiary gardens at East Bergholt Place (01206 299224) has an extensive range of trees, shrubs and climbers.
There are deli delights at the Dedham Gourmet (01206 323623), while the pies at FS Humphries in Harwich make a pleasant change from the ubiquitous fish and chips.

Hidden highlights
•    Settle down to admire the medieval pargetted plaster ceiling at the Hare and Hounds (01206 298438) in East Bergholt, on the B1070 to Holton St Mary.
•    .Refuel at the old-fashioned station buffet at Manningtree station, which serves bacon butties and real draught ale, before braving the no longer “secret” nuclear bunker (01206 395680) at Mistley, complete with vintage public information films showing ladies breaking off from a game of bridge as the warning siren sounds.
•    Watch a film at the marvellously restored Electric Palace Cinema at Harwich (www.electricpalace.com). Built in 1911, the Electric is the oldest unaltered cinema in Britain, showing recent releases every weekend (membership required).
•    Just upriver, the row of quirky beach huts at Wrabness are Essex’s answer to the shores of southern California.

Circular walk around the Lower Stour
Three hours, easy walking.
OS Pathfinder 1053
Head west from Manningtree Station along the lane by the car park and turn left up the hill past Lawford Hall to Lawford church. With the church to your right, walk north for a short distance, then left on to the track across Lawford Park. Where the track meets the road, turn right and follow the road for 300m to the top of Mill Hill. Turn left on the footpath towards Broom Knolls and past the cottage where the path becomes a track. Follow the hedge-side path to a house at the edge of Aldercar Wood. Past the house, bear right to a path signed Essex Way. Through the wood, cross a stream to the main railway line – cross with caution. Cross paddock and stiles to the road.

Across the road, head for the far left corner of the field and the stile to East Lane. Turn right down the hill (ignore footpath sign on right). Where the road turns sharp left (to the Alfred Munnings Museum), take the footpath signed Circular Walk 1. Cross the small field to a stile and follow diagonal path north-east towards Dedham church. At the second field, leave the path and cross the stile towards the gardens at the end of a row of brick cottages.

Take the path to the main road. Cross into Southfields Lane and bear right past the former weavers’ cottages, across playing fields to the war memorial and Dedham High Street. Turn left here for the Marlborough Head and the Sun pubs.

Head right past the Arts Centre and at the right turn take the path ahead down to the River Stour. Turn right along the river to cross Fen Bridge. Continue north, cross another bridge and take the lane up a hill to the Flatford road. Turn left to the road junction and East Bergholt church. The huge wood cage to the left houses the church bells. Return to the Flatford road and follow the lane back to Flatford through the car park. At Bridge Cottage turn left towards Flatford Mill and carry straight on over the bridge.

Turn left (downstream) along the south side of the river, pass the lock and ducks, and continue until you reach a low concrete flood barrage. Across this, turn left and take the path back to the river. After 500m cross the stile, turn right away from the river on a signed path that becomes a lane. Follow under the railway bridge, turn left and through the car park to Manningtree Station buffet for real ale, a snack and a fine view of the water meadows.

Must see
It was John Constable who made Flatford Mill famous. The landscape painter, born in neighbouring East Bergholt, painted dozens of rural scenes around here. Be similarly inspired and improve your painting skills on a course at the Mill, now a field studies centre (0845 330 7368). Willie Lott’s cottage, which features in The Haywain is nearby. So, too, is the tiny 16th-century thatched Bridge Cottage (01206 298260), which he painted many times. It now houses an exhibition of Constable’s life and work, and tea rooms. One of his paintings, of Christ blessing bread, hangs behind the altar in Nayland’s Church.

Where to eat
Dedham
•    Le Talbooth (01206 323150; www.le-talbooth.co.uk)
Sunday lunch in the riverside garden is a real treat,  or come for a more formal dinner. The menu is modern European; this is one to savour.
•    Milsoms (01206 322795)
The recently opened offshoot of Le Talbooth, this relaxed bistro serves a modern European and traditional British menu from 7am-11pm.
Harwich
•    The Pier Hotel and Restaurant (01255 241212; www.the-pier-hotel.co.uk)
The spectacular first-floor Harbourside Restaurant serves fine seafood while a pianist tinkles war-time tunes to accompany Sunday lunches. Also open for dinner. For fish and chips with the children, try the more informal Ha’penny Bistro downstairs, serving local catch. Extensive wine list. Join Scandinavian travellers fresh off the ferry for coffee and cakes on the new terrace.
Manningtree
•    Stour Bay Café (01206 396687) Oak-beamed rooms, elegant table linen and great value food. Its mainly marine-based menu and friendly service are hugely popular with locals, as are the jazz evenings. Open for lunch and dinner.
Mistley
•    The Gallery Teashop (01206 393884) Fill up on big, quality vegetarian lunches and teas while gazing at the local swans on the estuary. Children welcome. Open Wed-Sun and Bank Holiday Mondays.
Polstead
•    The Cock Inn (01206 263150) Charming old pub overlooking the green. Serves huge filled “huffers”, or floury baps, and hot dinners.

Where to stay
Bradfield
•    Emsworth House (01255 870860; www.emsworthhouse.co.uk) Friendly B&B in large grounds run by local artist Penny Linton. This former vicarage is filled with art and books and has great views over the Stour, a minute’s walk away. Art courses available. B&B.
Harwich
•    The Pier at Harwich Hotel (01255 241212; www.the-pier-hotel.co.uk) A Victorian packet-boat hotel with eight new rooms in the converted 17th-century inn next door. Yacht charter available.
Higham
•    The Old Vicarage (01206 337248) B&B in a charming 16th-century private house right on the Stour. Tennis court, swimming pool, punts.
Long Melford
•    Black Lion Hotel (01787 312356; www.blacklionhotel.net) A snug ten-bedroomed retreat with Victorian walled garden and views of Long Melford Hall and Kentwell Hall.
Nayland
•    Gladwins Farm (01206 262261; www.gladwinsfarm.co.uk) Luxury B&B with eight self-catering cottages set in 22 acres, with playground, fishing lake, tennis, indoor swimming pool, sauna and a dog who’ll take you for walks. Ask for the fresh hampers and gourmet freezer meals. Two cottages have private hot tubs. B&B.
Stoke by Nayland
•    The Angel Inn (01206 263245)
Popular village inn with six rooms. Book for the impressive dining room well in advance. B&B.
•    Thorington Hall (01206 337329)
Austere but enchanting grand farmhouse drawn by Constable, now offers B&B from Easter to September (no central heating).

General information
East of England Tourist Board 01473 822922
Sudbury Tourist Information Centre (TIC) 01787 881320
Flatford TIC 01206 299460
Harwich TIC 01255 506139
Manningtree information point 01206 396170
Essex Tourism www.essexcc.gov.uk
Dedham Vale and Stour Valley Countryside Project (the Stour Valley Path) 01473 583176 or visit www.dedhamvalestourvalley.org.

Public transport
Essex Bus Line 0870 6082608. Nayland Private Hire Cars (01206 262049/07979 640040)
Rail One Railway (0845 600 7245; www.onerailway.com) trains run from Liverpool Street to Colchester and Ipswich. Change at Manningtree for the Mayflower line to Harwich; change at Marks Tey for the Gainsborough line to Sudbury. National rail enquiries, 08457 484950; Railtrack helpline, 08457 114141
Cycle Routes: 01473 8229220. Alton Cycle Hire (01473 328873)

Books and Maps
Discover the Lower Stour by Terry Palmer (Heritage House, £2.95). Ordnance Survey Landranger sheets 168, 169, 155. The Tendring Trails, areas 1, 6 and 7, free from Tendring District Council (01255 425501).

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