Walk this way... Cullen to Portknockie, Scotland

Amble over golden sands, clamber up cliffsides and gasp at rock formations sculpted by the sea on this two-hour trek along the Moray Firth coast

The route: Set out from the harbour in Cullen and head west through Seatown, crossing the Cullen Burn to reach the car park for the golf course. Depending on the tide, you can descend some steps from here to access Cullen Bay (look for the Three Kings rock stacks on the seashore). At the end of the bay, follow the path around the cliff base to a grassland area, where you'll pass the waters of Jenny's Well and see a cave called Whale's Mou (or Mouth). At the cave, climb the three hundred or so steps up the cliff. Turn right and follow the path to the headland. Then turn left along the clifftops and you'll see the quartzite arch, Bow Fiddle Rock. Follow the path down to a cove and turn left for Portknockie, to bus it back to Cullen.

Why go? In four short miles, you will pass through pretty fishing villages (where the cottages stand gable-end to the sea), stride over the golden sands of Cullen Bay and then marvel at the pierced silhouette of Bow Fiddle Rock - a collapsed, slanting cave, said to resemble a figure playing the violin.

How long will it take? The route should take two hours. For more walks in the area, and nature-watching activities, contact the Moray Coastal Ranger Service on 01343 557048 or email doug.hawkes@moray.gov.uk.

Stamina required? It's a moderately challenging route, requiring a bit of power to conquer those cliff steps.

Refuelling options Try the Three Kings in Cullen - an old-style pub serving real ale and hot food (01542 840031).

What else can I see? In spring, there are herbs and wild flowers in bloom, such as sweet cicely and meadowsweet, in the grassland. While looking east from the headland above Portknockie, it's possible to see Troup Head, near the mouth of the Moray Firth, which is home to Scotland's only mainland gannet colony. Across the water, the hills of Sutherland and Easter Ross should be visible in the distance.

Wildlife highlights This area is famous for its dolphins, which could be frolicking close to shore at this time of year. Seabirds, such as razorbills, nest in the rock faces at Cullen Bay. Or you may spot linnets and skylarks hovering above the heather-clad clifftops.

And for kids? Cullen Bay is safe for beach games and swimming. And just try keeping them away from The Ice Cream Shop in Cullen.

Getting there The nearest train station is in Elgin - catch the 305 bus from the centre of town to Cullen. The same bus stops at Portknockie, to take you back to your starting point (01343 544222, www.stagecoachbus.com).

Where to stay Built by the Earl of Seafield in 1822 and restored in 1972 by the present Earl, The Seafield Arms Hotel in Cullen offers 22 en-suite rooms plus a restaurant (01542 840791, www.theseafieldarms.co.uk).

Don't miss... Check out the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival from 1-5 May, with tastings, concerts and ceilidhs. See www.spiritofspeyside.com for details.

Banff TIC 01261 812419, www.visitscotland.com.

OS maps Landranger Map 29: Banff & Huntly, Portsoy & Turriff; Explorer Map 425: Huntly & Cullen, Portsoy & Aberchirder. Click here for the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map Service

 

 

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