A weekend in… East Lothian

You can forget how loud the sea can be. The turbulent churning and crashing of waves in the Firth of Forth outside the window of our comfortable accommodation provides a noisy soundtrack to the sipping of whisky.

This is the North Sea at its most dramatic, far removed from swooshing, susurrating waves on shingle. We are in Aberlady, a small town in an unsung corner of Scotland, East Lothian. Across the water is the ‘Kingdom’ of Fife; to the left, the rocky outcrop of Edinburgh Castle. It feels unspoilt, rugged and undiscovered.

But this is East Lothian in winter when the weather is at its most robust. Return in summer and you are promised more hours of sunshine than anywhere else in the UK. This (relatively) sunny climate and proximity to Edinburgh led to North Berwick, further along the coast, becoming a fashionable resort in the 1880s. Known as the Biarritz of the North, it saw an invasion by smart Edinburgh households each summer, some even installing ballrooms in their coastal homes. The handsome houses that line the two bays are testament to this stylish past.

Nowadays, visitors are more likely to be day-trippers strolling along the sandy beaches. Hardier ones might take a dip in the tide-filled swimming pool but most head for the Scottish Seabird Centre. This modern building sits beside the harbour and boasts remote-controlled cameras through which you snoop on the avian occupants of nearby islands.

One of these, The Bass Rock, is in almost constant view as you travel the 40-mile coastline. This volcanic plug of rock rises from the sea like a giant molar, coated with droppings from the 100,000 gannets, which nest here from February to October. Eyes should be kept peeled all along the shore, though: the Firth of Forth is home to guillemots, razorbills, puffins and fulmars, among others. Visit the wide beaches and salt marshes of Aberlady Bay Local Nature Reserve and you will see most of them.

Many people come here not for the birds but for the birdies: East Lothian has 19 top-quality golf courses. One of the advantages of this swathe of greens (apart from excellent golf) is that views of the sea are mostly uninterrupted and building has been kept to a minimum.

Dunbar, further south, was also a popular resort and fishing port in its heyday but has fallen on harder times, though an impending regeneration project, the Dunbar Initiative, hopes to remedy that. It is the place to go surfing – local surf shop Puro Nectar (01368 869810, www.puronectarsurf.com) offers lessons at £35. The town is also the birthplace of John Muir (1838-1914), the first person to campaign for the preservation of wild land. A visit to the John Muir Museum is a good start towards understanding the man and the landscape.

Back in our comfortable lodgings, the sea continues to rage outside. We are staying in Green Craig, once the private residence of the Earl of Wemyss. It is decorated comfortably in traditional Scottish style, perfect for cosying up and watching the weather. These days, it is an ‘exclusive-use residence’, which means you hire the house for up to 12 guests and are looked after by staff. Popular with golfers, it is also great for house parties. It has views that John Muir would have favoured: ‘When I was a boy,’ he wrote, ‘I loved to wander along the shore to watch the waves thundering on the black headlands.’

Green Craig, Aberlady, East Lothian (01875 870301, www.greencraig.com). Prices from £2,700 for three nights, serviced.
 

The first 24 hours

• Climb a volcanic monolith: Rising from the flat landscape like a steamed pudding on a plate, North Berwick Law, a 187-metre lump of hard basalt, is a highly visible landmark. Puff your way up its steepish sides and you will be rewarded with views over the Firth of Forth, Fife, The Bass Rock and the Lammermuir Hills.

• Gawp at gannets: The Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick has remote-controlled cameras trained on bird colonies on nearby islands. Visitors can zoom in on the unsuspecting flocks and watch them going about their business. From February to October, thousands of gannets entertain birdwatchers with their 90mph diving speeds. Scottish Seabird Centre, The Harbour, North Berwick (01620 890202, www.seabird.org).

• Take in a round of golf: It would be an oversight to come to East Lothian and not put a foot on a golf course. For a taste, try the Golf East Lothian Passport, £7.50, which entitles you to purchase one round or a day ticket to one of 12 courses. To buy a ticket, call 01620 892197. For more information, visit www.golfeastlothian.com.

Lazy Sunday

• Discover a secret beach: Take the private road (£2 toll) off the A198 near Auldhame to wind your way down to secluded Seacliff. This stretch of coastline has it all: ruins (of grand Seacliff House built in 1720), views (of Tantallon Castle), a long, sandy beach fringed with dunes and even a harbour cut from the rocks in 1890 by then-laird Andrew Laidley. Tantallon Castle (01620 892727; adult, £4.50, child, £2.25).

• Take a boat trip: The Marr family have run trips from North Berwick for two generations. It’s too hazardous to stop at The Bass Rock, but they still sail Sula II round the four islands, including Fidra and Craigleith. The timetable is by the Celtic Cross in the town centre.

• Walk the John Muir Way: Created in memory of the local conservationist, the John Muir Way runs along the coastline of East Lothian. Pick it up at Cockenzie and walk five miles to Aberlady. Look out for wading birds, such as red-necked grebes and red-throated divers, as well as banks of sea buckthorn. Stop at Gosford Bothy Farm Shop to stock up on heather lamb and organic eggs

Where to eat

• La Potinière, Main Street, Gullane, East Lothian (01620 843214). This small but perfectly formed restaurant  – there are only 20 covers – is sufficient reason  alone to come to East Lothian. Award-winning chefs Keith Morley and Mary Runciman serve one menu (no à la carte) of exquisitely flavoured and balanced dishes created entirely from local and Scottish suppliers. The set menu is £38.

• Creel Restaurant, The Harbour, 25 Lamer Street, Dunbar (01368 863279, www.creelrestaurant.co.uk). Fresh, modern cooking with many fish dishes and seasonal vegetables. The head chef Logan Thorburn used to work with Rick Stein. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

• Craigielaw Golf Club, Aberlady, East Lothian (01875 870802). The smart, modern clubhouse has panoramic views of the links and the sea. Open to non-members, it offers a range of simple club food at reasonable prices.

• Osteria, 71 High Street, North Berwick (01620 890589). Classic regional Italian food, the sort you might find in Italy, served in a clean, contemporary setting.

Getting there

East Lothian is half an hour’s drive from Edinburgh Airport and slightly less from the city via the A1. Rail connections are available from Edinburgh Waverley station to Musselburgh, Wallyford, Prestonpans, Longniddry, Drem, North Berwick and Dunbar (www.thetrainline.com). For travel details, accommodation, bookings and more information on the area, call 0845 225 5121 or see www.visitedinburgh.org and www.visiteastlothian.org. For more information on East Lothian, go to www.visitscotland.com.