A weekend in... Southport

While neighbouring Liverpool was grabbing all the headlines as the European Capital of Culture in 2008, Southport has been quietly reinventing itself as England's ‘Classic Resort'. The Vincent, Southport's stylish boutique hotel, opened in June and epitomises the new face of the town. Funds are allocated to restoring the pier and opening the iconic Marine Way Bridge, while the Hotel du Vin group is eyeing up a site on the promenade. But for all the new improvements, Southport still retains the charm and character of an old seaside town - albeit with a chic and modern twist.

Friday pm

8pm A night with the stars

I check into the Vincent, Southport's new boutique hotel, and start the weekend in style with a quick drink in its über-cool bar, named after fashion photographer Tony McGee. That is until I realise Heather Mills - naked but for a feather boa and detached leg resting against the wall - is eyeing me from one of his images. A brush with the ex-Mrs McCartney is nearly enough to put me off my dinner at the V-Deli, but liver and bacon with mashed potato, followed by warm chocolate cake, means I regain my appetite. An after-dinner stroll down Lord Street allows just enough time to catch last orders at the Lakeside Inn (Marine Lake, 01704 530173). At 22 by 16 feet, Britain's smallest pub is low key, but I'm impressed by the certificate from the Guinness Book of Records - it's signed by Norris McWhirter.

Saturday am

10am Old-school glamour

A jaunt down the Grade II-listed, Victorian pier, the oldest surviving iron pier in Britain, is enough to blow away the cobwebs. Instead of taking the little tram that runs its 3,600-foot length, I opt for sweeping sea views and a gentle stroll, stopping to admire the messages on the decking in memory of holidaymakers who graced the windswept structure in its heyday. Afterwards, I pop into the Atkinson Art Gallery (Lord Street, 0151 934 2110, www.seftonarts.co.uk), where Fortunino Matania's historic publicity posters of Southport are striking and evocative. The principal tableau, Southport for a Holiday in Wintertime, captures the resort's 1930s elegance, showing patrons leaving the Garrick Theatre on Lord Street after a night out.

Saturday pm

1pm Books, brews and browsing

After a snack-style lunch at Darcys (52 Eastbank Street, 01704 543290, www.darcystearooms.co.uk), a tearoom with lacy tablecloths and a range of speciality brews, it's time to explore Lord Street. Southport's tree-lined main boulevard is home to shady gardens and wrought-iron, glass-canopied Victorian arcades - no wonder Emperor Napoleon III pinched the blueprint for the Champs-Elysées. I spend a happy hour mooching around the boutiques in the arcades and am bowled over by the Grade II-listed Wayfarers Shopping Arcade (www.wayfarersarcade.co.uk), built in 1898 and freshly French polished following a £2 million refurbishment. It would be easy to spend all afternoon at antiquarian booksellers Kernaghan Books (01704 546329), browsing the first editions.

7pm A posh fish supper

I start the evening with cocktails and tapas at cellar bar Core (Eastbank Street Square, 01704 530002), followed by dinner at the Michelin-lauded Warehouse Brasserie (30 West Street, 01704 544662, www.warehouse brasserie.co.uk), Southport's leading eaterie. The house special, an upscale take on traditional fish ‘n' chips served in a newspaper flower, is a winner. Then it's time for a show at the Southport Arts Centre (Lord Street, 01704 540011, www.seftonarts.co.uk), with a programme of theatre, music, comedy and art.

Sunday am

11am In another place

At Crosby beach, 16 miles south of Southport on the A565, I spend a moment of quiet contemplation with Antony Gormley's Another Place, a public art display of 100 life-sized, cast-iron characters looking yearningly out to sea. The sculptures have been saved from relocation to America and will now remain in their Merseyside home. I wrap up my visit with a hearty Sunday lunch at La Barbacoa (49-51 Mersey View, 0151 924 0445) and a homeward-bound detour via Liverpool to catch Le Corbusier - The Art of Architecture at Liverpool's Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the closing attractions of the Capital of Culture.

Stay at...

The Vincent - think 60 boutique rooms with sit-and-soak Japanese-style bathrooms, contemporary fittings, a spa and golf simulator. Five-star service without airs and graces. V-Residence doubles from £140 room only; budget an extra £15 each for breakfast (98 Lord Street, 01704 883800, www.thevincenthotel.com).

Also try...

The Carleton House Hotel (17 Alexandra Road, 01704 538035, www.thecarleton.co.uk) has simple but comfortable en suites. Double B&B at weekends, £80.

The Ramada (Marine Lake, Southport Promenade, 0844 801 3580, www.ramadaplazasouthport.co.uk), is a brand-new property. Double B&B from £170.

Getting there

Merseytravel (www.merseytravel.gov.uk) runs train services from Liverpool Lime Street. More info from Southport Tourism (01704 533333, www.visitsouthport.com). Also see www.seftonsnaturalcoast.com.

You might also like...

For a fine view of the Sefton coast, try the Crosby-to-Formby walk - just one of dozens in our nationwide walks guide

Inspired to plan a break? See our guide to great places to visit across the UK and Ireland