Autumn colour in the Highlands

The Dornoch Castle Hotel was built as a bishop's palace in the 15th century, and although reworked since, its original character is still evident. It's a cosy, welcoming place with very friendly, helpful staff and a relaxed atmosphere. As well as a bar area, there's a comfortable resident's lounge with books and games, and a real fire.

After the hour's drive from Inverness airport to Dornoch, tucked just beneath that top right-hand wedge of Scotland, we stretched our legs on a stroll around the town, out to its Blue Flag beach, and past the Royal Dornoch Golf Club (the world's third oldest) then installed ourselves (with new friend Charlie) on the leather sofas in front of the blazing log fire in the bar area with its solid stone walls.

Next morning, with empty roads around us, we headed to the Falls of Shin, a waterfall with gushing peaty-brown water where salmon spawn. After walking a woodland trail in neighbouring Achany Forest, we headed west for a scenic drive past Loch Shin, to the Atlantic.

Splashing along the empty roads, with windscreen wipers at full pelt, we saw the landscape change from the rolling, rounded hills of the eastern side of the Highlands, to the rugged, rocky and fjord-like drama of the west coast. Cloud cover was low and made for an atmospheric view as it rolled down hills covered in dark heather and orange bracken.

Back in our cosy room with its original stone pillar in one corner, we napped on the sleigh bed, before trying out the whirlpool bath in the thoroughly modern bathroom. Then it was downstairs for dinner.

Head chef Grant MacNicol won the Young Chef of the Year Award 2007, and our cheese and chilli risotto, and roast loin of pork was certainly very good. We were so impressed with the cooking that we just had to try a pudding. And even though I'd had risotto, it had to be rice pudding with pink peppercorn, vanilla and orange syrup - with two spoons.

After a good night's sleep and a hearty ‘full Scottish' (eggs, bacon, sausage, black pudding, potato scones, tomatoes and mushrooms) plus toast, juice, cereals, yogurt, we headed north, on the 80-mile trip to John O'Groats.

Our first stop up the A9 was the wildlife reserve at Loch Fleet where, overlooked by the ruins of Skelbo Castle, we gazed over the flat calm waters and spotted oystercatchers, herons, ringed plovers, and were observed by an inquisitive common seal.

A short way up the coast is Carn Liath, one of the three best-preserved brochs in Scotland. And what's a broch? A display of wealth... a defensive structure... opinions vary. At any rate, it's a stone-built beautifully constructed circular structure with a doorway and steps up to the top, with an excellent view over the firth.

On and up, through Brora, Helmsdale, Lybster and Wick, we reached John O'Groats - and it certainly felt like the most northerly settlement on the British mainland, as the blasting wind made our eyes water. It's not the most northerly point - that's Dunnet Head, five miles along the coast.

Dunnet Head was a naval centre in WW2, looking out over Scapa Flow, and as we teetered on the viewpoint of this tussocky headland, we found it easy to believe that its lighthouse has its windows smashed by stones thrown up by the sea, such is the force of the wind and waves.

On the way back to Dornoch, as twilight descended, an obliging stag paused for a photo on the skyline. Starving, we stopped at the Trawler chip shop in Golspie - and some of the crispest chips I've ever tasted.

After our windswept day, an evening in front of the fire with Charlie the cat and a couple of glasses of Rioja was the perfect way to relax.

On our last day, we crammed in some more sightseeing, starting on our doorstep in Dornoch. First stop was Dornoch Jail, next to the hotel, which is now a crafts and gift shop with gorgeous knitwear, local soaps, glassware and paintings. A quick look at the Plaiden Ell, a stone used to measure cloth in days gone by, in the grounds of the Cathedral (originally built in 1239, and where Madonna's son Rocco was christened before her wedding to Guy Ritchie in nearby Skibo Castle). Scotland's last witch-burning, in 1722, is marked by an engraved stone in a normal back garden near the beach.

On our way back to the airport, we couldn't resist a detour to the deep, dark waters of Loch Ness.

If you're dressed for the weather, the Highlands are a great winter destination: fewer people, less traffic - and no midges!

Travel details

Two-night breaks at the Dornoch Castle Hotel (right) start at £99 per person. Flybe flies from Gatwick to Inverness around twice a day, every day. Flights cost from £10.99 each way. For ideas for enjoying a Scottish winter break, visit www.visitscotland.com/white and www.northhighlandsscotland.com

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