Come to Kerala - for quiet and contentment

If your image of India is frenetic city life, overcrowding and noise, then you need to consider Kerala. A fertile strip of land on the southwest coast, with beautiful beaches and its famous backwater system of rivers, canals and lakes, the pace of life is calm and relaxed. As well as being the home of Ayurvedic treatments, Kerala is also the home of Kalarippayat, believed to be the forerunner of all martial arts, and showcased in the region for visitors. If you can, it's definitely worth making time in Kerala to experience both.

Where to stay

You can fly from the UK to Kerala's capital Trivandrum; from there it's an easy 20-minute drive to one of India's famous Leela hotels. The Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach is a luxurious five-star hotel built on a rock-face on the renowned Kovalam coast - upgrade to Club accommodation for a balcony overlooking the Arabian Sea.

You can eat on the beach without getting sand in your sandwiches; the Tides restaurant with Thai chef serves authentic Asian cooking in semi-open coddles (traditional Keralan structures of covered thatch huts). Food in front of you, waves a few feet away, fairy lights strung up to illuminate the scene - beautiful.

Back at the main hotel building (there are buggies on hand for the short drive up the cliffside path - or it's a pleasant walk and a gorgeous view), the main restaurant spreads from indoors to poolside patio, with two infinity pools looking out to sea. The buffet dinner offers all the food in the world, from all over world, and you can eat as much as you like. There's a spectacular Skyview bar, open to the elements with - clue in the name - a view of the sun and the stars perched right over the sea.

Kerala is famous as the home of Ayurveda, and if you want to try this ancient Indian holistic treatment in a luxurious setting, book yourself into the Leela's Ayurvedic spa - to find out more read our feature here.

When to go

June to August is the monsoon season in Kerala, although, according to the Leela's Ayurvedic doctor, this is the best time to visit for a treatment, which works better in a humid environment. We visited in late September and the weather was lovely, hot days and nights warm enough to eat outside in short sleeves. To avoid monsoon season and enjoy the best of the sunshine, it's advisable to visit between October and March.

What to do: backwater boat tour

Kerala is famous for its backwaters and the best way to appreciate their remote and restful beauty is to take a houseboat trip. Boats can be hired for couples, small groups or families for a few hours, a whole day, overnight or longer. With the boat comes an entire crew to look after you; we were welcomed on board with jasmine garlands and lunch was served as we moored by the river bank - a feast of traditional regional dishes including fish curry, ‘lady finger' (okra), chopped cauliflower in spices, daal - a staple with every Indian meal, spicy deep-fried chicken and large-grain fluffy rice.

They may be called backwaters, but these wide rivers play host to plenty of river traffic, both tourist and local boats. It's a great way to see the daily life of Kerala unfold as you glide past coconut groves, paddy fields and people going about their daily business.

Visit Trivandrum

Trivandrum is the capital city and offers the chance to experience the colour and bustle of urban India without being overwhelmed by it. Many features of the old city remain, like the pagoda-shaped buildings and narrow winding streets - beautifully cultivated gardens in the centre are a welcome relief from the busy streets and home to some of the city's museums and galleries. With carvings and statues dating from the earliest centuries, a museum trip is a good way to brush up on Indian deities. Divided into three groups - creator, preserver and destroyer, my favourite is Ganesha, the human with an elephant head.

For shopping, we visited the local crafts market for pashminas, fabrics, wooden carvings - including the ubiquitous elephant - bags, saris and other mementoes. Housed in a large multi-roomed building, it's best to browse each room before you buy and while haggling isn't encouraged, sometimes a raised eyebrow can get you a lower price without asking.

Before you go

You will need a visitor visa to enter India and as this can involve quite a lot of red tape it's best to apply well in advance of your departure date. Apply by post, in person at the Indian Embassy or online - though be warned, even if you fill out the form online you will still need to post or deliver it by hand to the embassy, along with your passport. You can collect it in person two to three days later or pay a courier fee to have it sent to you. Visit http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk for full details.

See a GP for your travel jabs - again, some of these need to be taken well in advance of the trip. I had shots for typhoid, hepatitis A, diphtheria, polio and tetanus. For more information, read our features on vaccinations and travel jabs.

There is a malarial risk in certain parts of the country but because I was travelling to a luxury resort for only five days I decided not to take malaria tablets. However you should seek your GP's advice on this. Either way, make sure you pack mosquito repellent and spray liberally, because chances are you will get bitten. Antihistamine tablets or cream are useful to reduce inflammation post-bite.

Other useful items for your suitcase are high factor sunscreen and moisturising after-sun, an adaptor plug for electrical items, and a wrap to cover bare shoulders when visiting temples and sacred sites. Sort your travel insurance before you go - for advice on finding the best deals, read our feature.

Accommodation

 
Stay at The Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach from £175pp per night (based on a Garden View Pavilion Room, valid until Sept 2010 excluding Christmas period). Stay with all meals included from £377pp per night (based on a Garden View Pavilion Room for a minimum of two nights, for weekend stays a 10% surcharge will be applied, valid from Dec 09 - April 2010 excluding Christmas period). All deals subject to availability.
 
To book contact Leela on central.reservations@theleela.com; or book through tour operators Cox & Kings, Greaves or Thomas Cook.
 

Getting there

Etihad Airways flies three times a day to Abu Dhabi from London, with a daily onward flight to Triruvananthapuram (Trivandrum). Return fares from London Heathrow to Trivandrum start at £445.80 in Coral Economy class, including taxes, and £3,045.80 in Pearl Business class including taxes. For further details visit www.etihadairways.com or call 0800 731 9384.

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