Escape to Hampshire’s chalk streams

Anglers might recognise north-west Hampshire's River Test as one of the greatest fly-fishing destinations in the world but for the rest of us, this tranquil, scenic valley and that of the nearby River Itchen are still surprisingly well-kept secrets. If you bowl along in a car, you'll discover a vibrant green agricultural landscape punctuated by patches of woodland. Wherever you walk there seem to be bridges over streams; you can also spot some of the picturesque fishing huts, often thatched and occasionally topped with a trout-shaped weather vane.

Wind your way through the lanes to ancient villages such as Wherwell, Chilbolton and Longstock, and you will find that any one of the thatched cottages could happily grace a chocolate box. In the larger market towns of Stockbridge and New Alresford, you can while away your time in galleries and specialist shops.

Evidence of former settlements is dotted about the landscape, from Iron Age hill forts to long barrows, and the chalk downs and water meadows are rich in wildlife and flora. On Stockbridge Down in summer you will be rewarded with more than 30 varieties of butterfly - Chalkhill Blues, Dark Green Fritillaries and Small Coppers have all been spotted here. On the River Itchen, otters have re-established themselves and
water vole numbers are increasing.

The chalk streams are so clean and clear that watercress grows wild everywhere, but there is a commercial side to the crop, too. The larger beds, especially around New Alresford (where the Mid Hants Railway Watercress Line is named after this famous local leaf) and St Mary Bourne, are an impressive sight. And watercress features on many menus in the area, alongside great cheeses, fresh trout and local water buffalo.

Two feet or two wheels

Take to the quiet lanes and well-marked footpaths on foot or by bike. Hampshire County Council's website (www.hants.gov.uk/walking) has routes and maps, or visit the tourist offices in Romsey, Winchester or Andover. The Test Way is a 44-mile route, while The Clarendon Way is a 24-mile walk from Winchester to Salisbury that takes in the Test and Itchen valleys. The 31-mile Itchen Way follows this river from its source near Hinton Ampner to Southampton. For church-lovers, The Itchen Valley Churches Trail offers a number of circular walks.

All aboard

If your feet need a rest, climb aboard one of the Mid Hants Railway steam locomotives that regularly puff out of New Alresford station on the ten-mile run to Alton. In Victorian times, The Watercress Line transported up to 14 tonnes of the leaves a day from local beds to market in London; now it takes passengers keen to relive the steam experience (01962 733810; www.watercressonline.co.uk; £12 for a day's unlimited travel, children £6). Pick up a free copy of The New Alresford Pocket Guide in the goods shed and use it to explore this pretty Georgian market town, stuffed with specialist shops and galleries. A one-mile self-guided walk, the Alresford Millennium Trail, is mapped out in a separate leaflet, taking you to the banks of the River Alre and past the 13th-century Fulling Mill, now a private house.

Border patrol

Garden visiting is a must during the summer and in this area you're spoilt for choice. Although the National Trust's Mottisfont Abbey (01794 340757; www.nationaltrust.org.uk) is the most famous, nearby Houghton Lodge Gardens (01264 810502; www.houghtonlodge.co.uk) is worth a detour for its water meadows and walled garden with ancient fantrained pear trees. Owners Anthea and Martin Busk have an honesty box for tea and coffee and don't miss their delicious homemade cakes. And if it's yet more water you're after, try Longstock Park Water Garden (01264 810904; www.longstockpark.co.uk), open on the first and third Sundays of the month, from April to September, 2-5pm. Long Barn, which grows and distils lavender in Alresford (CL, August 2007), is holding its first Festival of Lavender from 30 July to 8 August, featuring talks, craft workshops, tastings and demonstrations (01962 738684; www.longbarn.co.uk).

A bit of history

This part of Hampshire is rich in Iron Age remains. Climb up to the site of Danebury hill fort, near Stockbridge, and then take a trip into Andover, to the Museum of the Iron Age in Church Close (01264 366283), to see some of the finds archaeologist Professor Barry Cunliffe and his team unearthed from it in major excavations over the course of nearly 20 years.

Winchester is teeming with history - once you have seen the awe-inspiring Great Hall with the legendary Arthurian Round Table, follow the lanes round to the cathedral. Call in at evensong (5.30pm, term time, except Wednesdays) and you can listen to the dulcet tones of the famous choir.

Fishing

The sky is the limit for prices at the more exclusive beats on the River Test, but there are affordable day tickets to be had, too. Try Timsbury Fishing (01264 365165; www.timsburyfishing.co.uk) where you can fly-fish from 8am until dusk (May to September) for £75 per person; you'll need to provide your own rod. The Test Valley School of Flyfishing offers one-day courses for beginners (01794 884127; www.learnflyfishing.co.uk).

Places to stay

● Beech Lodge, Lockerley (01794 341360; www.testvalleyaccommodation.co.uk). This oakbeamed, one-bedroom apartment with courtyard garden has been thoughtfully kitted out by owners David and Annie Powell, who live next door. Within walking distance of the River Test, it is a great place to hole up for a weekend. Self-catering from £60 per night.
● Highfield Country Guest House, Stockbridge (01264 810457; www.highfieldcountryguest.co.uk). Friendly, knowledgeable owner Cathy Ridley and partner John Sykes make this comfortable B&B with two acres of garden a great find. For breakfast, try Cathy's delicious blueberry pancakes and iced mango yogurt. From £65.
● The Peat Spade Inn, Longstock (01264 810612; www.peatspadeinn.co.uk). On the corner of a quiet village road irresistibly called The Bunny, this sophisticated pub/restaurant with rooms is in a prime location for exploring the Test Valley. Ebullient owner Lucy Townsend sets the tone, and the food, much of it locally sourced, is a treat. Rooms are compact with luxurious en-suite showers. From £130.
● Yew Tree House, Broughton (01794 301227). You won't want to leave this tranquil Georgian house with its garden views and a pub restaurant (The Grey Hound) across the road. Hosts Janet and Philip Mutton know the area well - ask to see the William and Mary dovecote in the churchyard. From £65. 

Places to eat

● Annie's Restaurant, Kimbridge (01794 340556; www.kimbridgeonthetest.com). If you haven't bagged your own trout, stop off at this pretty barn, next to a trout stream, and eat a home-cooked one with buttery potatoes and watercress salad (starters around £5, mains around £9).
● Caracoli, New Alresford (01962 738730; www.caracoli.co.uk). This relaxed coffee house and food store is popular with tourists and locals alike, especially for its ‘Pigwitch' breakfast (toasted sourdough bacon sandwich), blackboard-special lunches and Friday-night tapas (lunches from £4.75, tapas £5.25 each).
● The Chestnut Horse, Easton (01962 779257; www.thechestnuthorse.com). This cosy, 16th-century pub has monthly specials featuring local produce including Blackmoor game, Laverstoke Park Farm organic meat and Itchen trout (starters around £7, mains around £16).
● Lainston House Hotel, Sparsholt (01962 776088; www.lainstonhouse.com). Book in for a truly indulgent afternoon tea (£19.95 per person) taken on the terrace of this splendid, 17th-century country house hotel hidden away down a long lime avenue.
● West Lea Farm Shop, just off the A31 west of New Alresford (01962 732476). This shop sells a range of fresh local produce, and is set right by the watercress beds so it can be picked for you in minutes.