Escape to Lough Erne

They call Fermanagh the ‘lake county’ – and with good reason. This south-western corner of Northern Ireland owes far more to water than it does to land. The great leaping-dolphin shape of Lough Erne, 50 miles long from tip to tail, fills the centre of the county. The lower lake is dotted with islands, the upper part is a fractured, gorgeous mess of peninsulas, islets, backwaters and pools.

Wherever you look, there’s an irresistible play of clear light on water, a background gleam that seems to polish every view with a seductive shimmer. Maybe this romantic glow owes something to the legend of how Lough Erne was formed. It seems that a pair of lovers, having uncapped a magic well to slake their thirst, lay down and began to embrace. They were too transported to put the lid on their passion – or on the well, which overflowed unstoppably until it had drowned half the kingdom of Ulster.

Tall stories, lofty tales and rambling chat are the very stuff of life around the shores of Upper and Lower Lough Erne, where the day unfolds at its own pace and the clock tends to run slowly. Fermanagh people pride themselves on their hospitality, their home-baking and brewing, and their green countryside. Also on their traditional music, which you’ll hear in pubs and in back kitchens wherever you go.

Summer is when Lough Erne really comes into its own. Fish are jumping, and the cotton-grass is high. You can boat and fish all the way down Lough Erne, or walk in the lush forest parks that overlook it. Trace the history of those who settled in the fine country houses and gaunt old castles that still stand on its shores, watch precious Belleek pottery being made, or seek out the islands where historic monuments both beautiful and strange are scattered.

Whatever you do, though, be sure to make time for the views and the lakeside picnics, the music and the chat.

Manors and monuments
With its Celtic, English and Scottish connections, Lough Erne has a highly flavoured history. The strong heritage of spiritual faith has left remarkable island monuments in Lower Lough Erne – the pagan Janus figure in Caldragh cemetery on Boa Island (A47), the seven enigmatic early Christian statues on White Island (catch the boat from Castle Archdale Marina 028 6862 1892) and the tall round tower and monastic settlement on Devenish Island (take the ferry from Trory jetty, 028 6862 1588, or with Erne Tours from Enniskillen, 028 6632 2882).

Two fine grim castles from the early 17th-century period of Scottish occupation, Tully Castle (028 6862 1588) and Monea Castle (always open), speak of turbulent times; while the two great country houses of Florence Court (028 6634 8249) and Castle Coole (028 6632 2690), both beautifully looked after by The National Trust (www.ntni.org.uk), reflect the gracious living of the Anglo-Irish in the 18th and 19th centuries.

At Coles Monument, a giant Doric column in Forthill, Enniskillen, you can climb the 107 spiral steps for a magnificent view across the town.

As for tradition today – that’s in the hands of the local musicians (028 6634 1701; www.fermanaghmusic.com), who play pub sessions all over the area.

Water, walks and wildlife
Boating and cruising on Lough Erne are the classic outdoor activities. You can hire boats by the half-day from Manor House Marine at Killadeas (028 6862 8100; www.manormarine.com). Or be skippered around Upper Lough Erne aboard The Inishcruiser, owned by Share Holiday Village, Lisnaskea (028 6772 2122; www.sharevillage.org) or Lower Lough Erne on the deck of Lady of the Lake, which sets off from the Inishclare Restaurant in Killadeas (028 6862 2200; www.manor-house-hotel.com); or the MV Kestrel, which departs from the quay at Enniskillen (028 6632 2882). Canoeing and windsurfing, as well as the terrestrial pursuits of riding, caving and mountain biking are listed in the Fermanagh Lakeland holiday guide, available from Fermanagh TIC.

For a tremendous view over Lough Erne, Fermanagh and far beyond, from the mountains of Donegal and Sligo to the cliffs of the coast, leave your car in the car park on the A46 about six miles east of Belleek and climb the signposted trail up steep steps that rise through the woods of Lough Navar Forest.

If you fancy an unusual day out, you should visit the Marble Arch Caves at Florencecourt. This maze of caves, rivers and waterfalls is entirely natural and is located in a National Nature Reserve. Tours last 75 minutes and are suitable for all ages (as long as you are reasonably fit). Comfy shoes and warm clothing are a must for this underground boat trip and walk (028 6634 8855; www.marblearchcaves.net).

There are beautiful lakeside walks through woods full of summertime birds, flowers and butterflies on the Upper Lough at The National Trust’s Crom Estate near Newtownbutler (028 677 38118; www.ntni.org.uk), and on the Lower Lough in the country parks at Castle Caldwell and Castle Archdale. Waterbirds abound on Lough Erne, as you’d expect, so don’t forget your binoculars. There are woodland birds in the country parks, red deer on the Crom Estate and wild flowers and dragonflies lending colour to the upland bogs.

The art of breakfast
A Lough Erne breakfast sets you up for the day. Once you’ve worked your way through an artery-bashing Ulster fry, complete with black and white pudding and soda farls (delicious thin cakes of flour, oatmeal or potato), you won’t want to eat again until dinner. Self-caterers in Enniskillen should go for the famous black bacon and speciality sausages from O’Doherty’s of Belmore Street (028 6632 2152), while Leslie’s Home Bakery in Church Street (028 6632 4902) does wonderful wheaten and soda bread.

If it’s raining...
Belleek Pottery (028 686 59300; www.belleek.ie) is internationally famed; you can watch the potters shape and decorate Parian china. Ireland’s best collection of antique lace is at the Sheelin Irish Lace Museum in Bellanaleck (028 6634 8052; www.irishlacemuseum.com); some was locally made at Inishmacsaint, other pieces, from babies’ caps to wedding dresses, come from all over the country.

You’ll get an insight into the region’s history, from old photographs and farm implements to a still for making illicit poteen, at Lisnaskea Library’s Museum Exhibition (028 6772 1222).

Crafts and curios
Enniskillen’s Buttermarket (028 6632 3837; www.thebuttermarket.com) has craft shops such as Frankie McPhillips (fly dresser), Brendan Bannon Woodturning and Frances Morris (painter). Choose from Belleek pottery’s stylish ‘Living’ range or more classic pieces at the pottery, or in Enniskillen’s Erneside Shopping Centre.

For an eclectic collection of modern Irish art, visit The Basement Gallery in the servants’ quarters of Dunbar House, a 200-year-old Georgian property northwest of Enniskillen, run by Emma Moore and her husband George. Bold landscapes from local artist Philip Flanagan accompany bronze animals by Anthony Scott, who was born in Co Fermanagh. Call 028 6632 5798 or visit www.basement-gallery.com.

Fiddler’s warning
The Fiddler’s Stone at the entrance to Castle Caldwell Forest Park (028 6634 3032) is inscribed with a verse bewailing the drowning of drunken musician Denis McCabe in 1779: ‘Beware ye fidlers of ye fidler’s fate, Nor tempt ye deep lest ye repent to late; Ye ever have been deemed to water foes – Then shun ye lake till it with whiskey floes.’

Places to stay
● Arch House, Tullyhona, Marble Arch Road, Florencecourt (028 6634 8452; www.archhouse.com). Award-winning, pet-friendly B&B on a farm. Doubles start at £48.
● Customs House Country Inn, Main Street, Belcoo (028 6638 6285; www.customshouseinn.com). A pub, restaurant and B&B. Doubles start at £60.
● Keenaghan Cottage, 8 Derrynacrannog Road, Belleek (028 6865 8365; www.keenaghancottage.com). Cosy traditional cottage. Sleeps 4; free fishing and use of boat. Weekend breaks start from £175. A week during the high season costs up to £550.
● Killyhevlin Hotel, Dublin Road, Enniskillen (028 6632 3481; www.killyhevlin.com). Comfortable hotel. B&B, doubles from £70 per person per night (sharing).
● Manor House Country Hotel, Killadeas (028 6862 2200; www.manor-house-hotel.com). Beautiful 18th-century house with all mod cons. B&B, doubles start at £110.

Places to eat
Forthill Fine Foods, 2 Forthill Street, Enniskillen (028 6632 2228). Stock up on deli foods, pies and salads for a lakeside picnic.
Johnsons Jolly Sandwich Bar, 3 Darling Street, Enniskillen (028 6632 2277). For tea and cakes.
Mac Nean House & Bistro, Blacklion, Co Cavan (00 353 71 98 53022), half a mile over the border in Eire. Neven Maguire is one of Ireland’s best-known young chefs.
Oscar’s Restaurant, 29 Belmore Street, Enniskillen (028 6632 7037). A Les Routiers award-winner.

Escape essentials
● OS N. Ireland Discoverer Maps(1:50,000) 17 ‘Lower Lough Erne’ and 27 ‘Upper Lough Erne’.
● Hidden Fermanagh (£12) is published with two CDs (£12 each) by the Fermanagh Traditional Music Society (www.fermanaghmusic.com).
● 25 Walks In Fermanagh (£4.95) is available from Fermanagh TIC.

Tourist information
Fermanagh TIC, Wellington Road, Enniskillen (028 6632 3110; www.fermanagh-online.com).

Getting there
Air Flybe flies to Belfast City from Leeds-Bradford, Birmingham, Bristol and other UK airports (01392 366669; www.flybe.com).
Bus From Belfast to Enniskillen takes two hours 20 minutes (028 9066 6630; www.translink.co.uk).