Escape to North Wales

Tucked beneath the northern horn of the great crescent that makes up the coastline of Wales are two bays: Tremadog and the smaller Barmouth Bay. Attracted by their beautiful, broad sandy beaches and mild climate, holidaymakers have been coming to this coast since the late 19th century. Snowdonia’s volcanic peaks form an imposing backdrop to this coastal landscape of soaring cliffs, green hills swathed in yellow gorse and purple heather and a tangle of rivers rushing towards the sea. The region offers beautiful and dramatic walks, most notably in the Snowdonia National Park.

Despite its mountainous character, this area is richly endowed with railways, a legacy of its mining history. Copper and even gold were dug out of the hills and valleys, while the mountains themselves provide the blue-black slate that is still used for roofing, paving and gravestones.
Though mining and industry have all but gone, agriculture still survives, as the multitude of sheep powdering the hillsides testifies, together with the Welsh lamb deservedly found on so many menus. Welsh is routinely spoken here, so listen carefully if you want to discover how to get your tongue round the names of towns such as Penrhyndeudraeth.

Heritage
The castle at Criccieth (01766 522227; www.castlewales.com/criccth.html) is a beautiful ruin, standing on a green hill projecting from the seafront. The view from its outer ward is truly sensational, taking in all of Tremadog Bay. It was once a Welsh stronghold but was strengthened by Edward I in 1283 after his conquest of Wales. Harlech’s castle (01766 780552; www.harlech.com) was founded in the same year but remains a formidable edifice overlooking the duned coastline. Its curtain wall and massive gatehouse stand foursquare upon the 60m-high “bold rock” from which it takes its name. At one time it was protected by the sea, but now the water has receded and its moat is filled with a grazing sheep. The castle endured a seven-year siege during the Wars of the Roses, but was taken in the end; this fruitless heroism inspired the song “Men of Harlech”. Just outside the castle is a sculpture by Ivor Robert-Jones that illustrates a story from the Mabinogion, a collection of Welsh tales, rich in folklore. Called “The Two Kings”, it depicts a mythical British king (Bran the Blessed) returning from war with the dead body of his beloved nephew slung over the back of his horse.

Mines
The huge, gloomily beautiful heaps of blue slag that surround the former slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog are a constant reminder of the past. In the late 19th century, slate quarrying was the biggest industry in Wales, and in towns such as Blaenau there grew up tight-knit communities of quarrymen and miners, who developed skills, language and traditions impenetrable to outsiders. Today the mountain town is almost perfectly preserved, and mine tours offer a taste of what life and work was like. The Llechwedd Slate Caverns (01766 830306; www.llechwedd-slate-caverns.co.uk) take you underground on Britain’s steepest passenger railway to meet the ghost of a Victorian miner. Or you can take the miners’ tramway through a labyrinth of man-made caverns, some as big as churches. At the Sygun Copper Mine (01766 890595) in nearby Beddgelert, you can see old copper workings and stalagtites and stalagmites.

Railways
The Ffestiniog Railway (01766 516000; www.festrail.co.uk) once transported slate from the mines at Blaenau Ffestiniog to the docks at Porthmadog: it now carries tourists through the Snowdonia National Park and the Vale of Ffestiniog by miniature steam train – a run of 131⁄2 miles.

On the Welsh Highland Railway (01766 513402; www.whr.co.uk) you can travel in a Gladstone coach, built in 1892 and named after the Victorian Prime Minister, who once travelled along the line. The coach is pulled by the “Russell” steam locomotive for almost a mile from Porthmadog to Pen y Mount. You can also inspect the railway sheds and sit at the engine’s controls. True fanatics can visit the Corris Railway and Museum (01654 761303; www.corris.co.uk) in Corris, Machynlleth and the Talyllyn Railway (01654 710472; www.talyllyn.co.uk) which was first opened in 1865 and runs inland from Talyllyn to Nant Gwernol for 71⁄2 miles.

Crafts
The White Room Gallery (01766 780501) in Harlech has a changing exhibition of ceramics, textiles, furniture, ironwork and paintings, displayed in an attractive 17th-century building, worth seeing in its own right. Also worth visiting for its pretty setting is the Crochendy Twrog Pottery (01766 590302) near Maentwrog, where Trefor and Gill Owen’s pots, some glazed with rhododendron ash, are on display in a Grade II-listed 19th-century stable courtyard. Opposite Criccieth Castle stands the Chapel of Art (01766 523570; www.the-coa.org.uk), a 19th-century chapel rescued and restored by its owners, who now exhibit pottery and paintings there. They are currently laying a pottery path outside, consisting of 5,000 different tiles. Further afield is the Centre for Alternative Technology (01654 705950; www.cat.org.uk) at Machynlleth, which recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. As well as organic gardens, a water-powered cliff railway and renewable energy displays, the centre now boasts a state-of-the-art environmental information centre showcasing ecological building technologies such as rammed-earth walls and sheep’s-wool wall insulation.

Gardens
Plas Tan-y-Bwlch (01766 772600; www.plastanybwlch.com) is a 19th-century garden terraced on steep slopes with magnificent trees overlooking the Vale of Maentwrog. The Portmeirion estate (01766 770000; www.portmeirion-village.com) surrounds the famous village and features acres of sub-tropical gardens containing rare Himalayan flowering trees and other exotics. Plas Brondanw, near Llanfrothen, was the home of Portmeirion’s creator, Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, and its garden is full of characteristic touches, such as Roman statuary, cunningly contrived vistas and droll topiary.

Hidden highlights
•    The “cottage-bred statesman” David Lloyd George lived in his uncle’s shoemaking shop, which is now furnished and open to visitors in the village of Llanystumdwy (01766 522071). In the nearby museum, visitors can witness a bizarre wax “talking head” that delivers snatches of his speeches.
•    The Old Post Office Bookshop in Blaenau Ffestiniog (01766 831802)  stocks Welsh language books and a vast range of second-hand and new titles in English.
•    The old-fashioned Penrhyn Deli (01766 770533) on the high street in Penrhyndeudraeth sells breads, local cheeses, homemade soups and fruit and vegetables.
•    An example of Welsh beehive vaulting can be seen in a holy well (Ffynnon Gybi) not far from the church at Llangybi near Pwllheli.  

Must see
This coastline has no shortage of unspoilt beaches, but for sheer size and beauty it’s hard to beat Black Rock Sands, west of Porthmadog at Morfa Bychan, with its two-mile stretch of fine sand. it is safe for swimming and has wonderful views south and north to Harlech and Criccieth. A footpath back to Porthmadog takes you through Borth-y-Gest, an old boat-building village with a pretty harbour.


Local legend
From Beddgelert a short walk along the bank of the Glaslyn brings you to the alleged grave of Gelert, faithful hound of Llewellyn the Great (“bedd” means grave). According to legend, Llewellyn left the dog in charge of his baby son while he went hunting. When he returned he found the child gone and the dog’s muzzle covered in blood. He killed it on the spot, but then discovered his child sleeping safely beneath his cot with a dead wolf beside him. The hound licked his hand and died. However, the tale is now believed to have been devised by an 18th-century publican to boost his business. The true source of the village’s name is probably the grave of Celert, a 6th-century saint who lived nearby.

Where to eat
Criccieth
•    Tir-a-Mor Restaurant (01766 523084)
The best of Welsh cooking. Twice-baked mixed cheese mousseline, followed by roast rump of Welsh lamb with caramelised tomato and rosemary jus.
Dolgellau
•    Dylanwad Da (01341 422870; www.dylanwad.co.uk)
Small, well-reviewed bistro, popular with locals and visitors. Specials include fillet of hake (a fish with a long tradition in Welsh cooking) tossed in spices, pan-fried and served with minted salsa and crème fraîche.
Harlech
•    Plas Café and Restaurant (01766 780204)
Pretty café with licence and tea garden. Doughnuts are served with fresh cream in the morning and afternoon. For lunch, try the steak and kidney pie with new potatoes and vegetables. Open until 8pm until mid-October. Maentwrog
The Grapes Hotel (01766 590365)
Fine old inn with a view of Ffestiniog Railway from the enclosed veranda. There are two bars, furnished with pieces salvaged from chapels. Try the famous pork ribs, served with a selection of vegetables and potatoes or rice.
Porthmadog
•    Spooner’s Harbour Station Café/Bar (01766 512340)
Enjoy a cup of tea at this excellent café which shares the building with Ffestiniog Railway ticket office and is filled with railway memorabilia, including a steam engine.

Where to stay
Beddgelert
•    Sygun Fawr Country House (01766 890258; www.sygunfawr.co.uk)
Welsh manor house dating from 1644 set in 20 acres of mountainside and garden. Superb views of Snowdonia and Gwynant valley from nine en-suite bedrooms. B&B £31-£36 per person.
Criccieth
•    Llwyn Mafon Isaf (01766 530618)
A working farm with cows and calves in the barn and a fine view of Traeth Bach estuary. Four rooms, two ensuite, and a warm welcome from the Jones family. B&B.
Harlech
•    Hotel Maes-y-Neuadd (01766 780200; www.neuadd.com)
Granite and slate mansion set on hillside above Tremadog Bay. Comfortable, well-equipped bedrooms and a bar with an inglenook fireplace. B&B; three- to five-course dinners available.
Porthmadog
•    Brynkir Home Tower (01766 530628)
This splendid Gothic tower with tracery windows and a 68-step spiral staircase offers vertical self--catering. The Victorian bathroom has a claw-foot bath and the bed, two floors below, is made of brass and iron. Sleeps 2-6.
Pwllheli
•    Plas Bodegroes (01758 612363; www.bodegroes.co.uk)
Charming cream Georgian house with original veranda owned by Chris and Gunna Chown. Rooms vary in size but all are elegant and display Gunna’s Danish taste. B&B and very reasonable three-course dinners.
 
General information
Information Wales Tourist Board (08708 300 306; www.visitwales.com). Tourist Information Centres at Porthmadog (01766 512981) and Pwllheli (01758 613000) are open year round. Blaenau Ffestiniog (01766 830360) and Harlech (01766 780658) are open April to September.

Activities

Walking, cycling, golfing and other activity holidays: visit www.wales.daysout.net.
Riding: Wales Trekking & Riding Association (01874 623185).

Public transport

North Wales stations are linked to London Euston. Local services from Manchester, Birmingham and Shrewsbury. Enquiries: 0845 748 4950.
Coach services from London Victoria and most major towns. National Express: 08705 808080; www.nationalexpress.com.

Maps and books
Ordnance Survey Landranger map numbers 114, 115, 116, 123, 124 and 125.