Escape to the seaside: Brighton break

The thing is with Brighton, there's a lot of stuff to do. Go there on a sunny day, wander through the Lanes with quirky boutiques and holiday browsers, stroll past al-fresco diners on café terraces, and you really could be anywhere in Europe - not, as I was, just an hour from hot congested London on the train. But for me, the real selling point is the sea, spread out as far as the eye can see along a wide promenade, sparkling azure blue on the weekend I visited.

It's a picture-perfect seafront, from the candy-coloured stripy deckchairs lined up on the beach, to the colourful sailing boats dotted across the horizon, a great place for water sports - canoeists jostling for space with jet skis, paddling dinghies and water skiers. But who needs water sports we figured - and just curled up on towels, digging out toes into sun-warmed beach pebbles.

Had we been more energetic there was Brighton Pier and the funfair to entertain us, the Royal Pavilion and exotic gardens, and, of course, later on Brighton's lively nightlife. Hen and stag parties aside, if you get a recommendation from the locals you can avoid the ‘Costa del Sol' melee and hang out with those in the know in quirky bars off the beaten track.

Dubbed ‘London by the sea' by the ‘dressed up and up for it' crowd in the 1850s, its popularity stretches back to the mid 1700s when one Dr Russell published a book extolling the medical qualities of seawater, especially that found in Brighton. And so wealthy Londoners were lured to Brighton to avail of the water - with the aid of handy bathing machines to help lower them into the sea!

Where to stay?

It's a historical mix of the old and the new, the traditional - Victorians in full body suits dipping delicate toes in the water, and the modern - Fat Boy Slim attracting thousands of revellers to a seaside all-night rave. A great place for a short break and some chill-out time by the sea - but where do you stay? On a recent trip, I sampled both extremes - the old and the new. One night in the genteel old-world Grand hotel, the next in the über trendy Hotel du Vin in the fashionable Lanes district (albeit on a historic site that has housed an inn since the 1700s).

The Grand

Dating from 1864, The Grand hotel is an esteemed Brighton institution, standing majestically on the seafront. Genteel Brighton at its best and of course the place to take afternoon tea if you are just here on a day trip. Plans are well underway to make sure this old lady of Brighton does not get let behind in the 21st century; several of the luxury rooms have been recently refurbished and plans are under way for a new state-of-the-art spa.

Accommodation

Our room faces the seafront, has a small balcony and all the trappings of modern comfort, like the large flat-screen TV (tastefully framed to fit into its elegant setting), funky freestanding lamps, mint-green chaise longue, and a big bed luxuriously piled with cushions and throws. The bathroom is streamlined and modern with double sinks and a modern stone finish. And - top marks! - there's a generous hospitality tray, with real coffee, hot chocolate and a bumper selection of teas.

Dining Grand-style

Dinner that night is served in the - very grand - dining room. It's not difficult to imagine the Prince Regent dining lavishly with friends under the impressive chandeliers. Music from the grand piano in the lounge next door gently wafts into the room, and we eat looking out to sea as the sun sets.

Food is mainly locally sourced, with fish landed on the outside pier and meat Sussex-reared. The courses are tasty - woodland mushrooms with poached duck egg, king prawns with brown bread, whole roast seabass with fennel and dill mustard seed and pan-fried halibut with curried mussels. Plus there's a good selection of well-priced wines.

The Grand, 97 - 99 King's Rd; 01273 224300; for more information and to book, visit the website here

Back to the beach ...

The sun blazes once again the following day and we're back on the beach. We meet a friend and her family, so it's water wings, scuba masks and water pistols at the ready and we're off to the lido. Later, back at the playground, the adults settle around a table at a nearby beach café, within sight of the swings and the slides and two very contented children.

Hotel du Vin

That evening we check into the Hotel du Vin. It's a quirky building, just around the corner from the seafront. There's a welcoming enclosed courtyard just inside the entrance, leading off to the bar which is packed with overstuffed couches. There's a bookcase to browse, more couches through to the lounge and upstairs a surprise, a tasting room, available to hire for private parties. Carved seagulls perch high on the wooden beams, overlooking the scene. Next door is the newly refurbished Pub du Vin, a posh pub with smart guest rooms upstairs; priding itself on its local ales, in the knowledge that beer is, in fact, the new wine.

Accommodation

The walk to our bedroom is a treasure hunt, up stairways, through winding passage-ways, around corners, through a locked door and finally into one of the most delightful hotel rooms I've ever come across. Because there in the middle of the floor was my dream bedroom accessory - a freestanding roll-top bath in the large bay window. I saw one in a magazine once and wanted it instantly, what could be better than having your bath at the foot of your bed? Some time, please oh god of interior design and creative bedrooms... The bathroom is great too, with double shower/wet room and enough space in-between showers to go for a jog.

And here's one of the few good things about the recession - the discounts on offer this year. Chatting to the hotel's assistant manager he reveals they are currently offering lots of deals for visitors at the moment. And their attempts are obviously paying off; on this Sunday night in early summer the hotel is left with just two rooms to sell, and both the bar and restaurant are buzzing.

Bistro dining

The restaurant is a stylish bistro with relaxed ambience, smart décor and service that's friendly and helpful. We eat moules marinières, fresh from the local waters, pavé of cod with asparagus spears, char-grilled naturally reared rib-eye steak, roast rump of lamb, and dishes and dishes of vegetables.

Hotel du Vin, Ship St; 01273 718588; for more information and to book, visit the website here

And even Monday morning isn't too bad. Up with the sun, I get a quick turn on the promenade, feasting my eyes one last time on all that glittering blue, before heading for the station and work. As a way to start the week on a great note, I thoroughly recommend a weekend in Brighton.

See the official tourist guide to Brighton at www.visitbrighton.com, with full events listings, accommodation guide and visitor information

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