Experience the magic of Mallorca

If you hear 'Mallorca' and instantly think 'beach crush and lager louts', you're missing out on one of the most beautiful, cultural and climate-perfect experiences within a stone's throw of the UK.

It's the perfect family destination, just a two-hour flight from the UK with 300 days of sunshine. Yes, you'll find the club experience in the resorts of Magaluf, Santa Ponsa and the like, but while there are 40 Blue Flag beaches, to think of this gorgeous island as only a sun, sea and sand destination is to do it a huge injustice. Because there is a Mallorca far removed from the teeming beachside crowds; with spectacular inland countryside – perfect for exploring on horseback or by bike – picturesque towns, mountainous terrain, rural landscape and the capital city of Palma with its rich architectural history from Roman settlements through to Baroque, Gothic and Art Deco.

Traditional farmhouses

It's possible to take a trip to the island and not merely avoid the party areas, but never be aware of their existence. And the best way to do it? Stay in a traditional Mallorcan family home, choosing from a traditional rustic finca (farmhouse) where you'll be woken by the crowing of a rooster and the kids can run around with chickens all day long, or a contemporary villa, the ideal stylish retreat.

You can do it all through one company, Mallorcan Farmhouses, and they'll also take care of car hire, babysitting, maid service, a personal cook and provide you with the services of a friendly local who can give you everything from numbers of the local taxi firms to the names of the best beaches in the area. You'll also be treated to a welcome hamper on arrival, with everything you need for your first few meals, so you don't have to run to the shops straight away.

We arrived at the Finca Son Rito on a sunny Saturday – unseasonably hot for the end of October we were told – but we were very glad for it as we shrugged off our dark English winter gear and flounced about in flip-flops and T-shirts, heading straight for the pool in the dazzling Mediterranean sun. There was plenty of time to relax with a cool glass of cava and lazily explore the property before Crista and her partner Raymond turned up to cook our dinner. This gourmet cook service can be booked for any special occasion – ideal if you are taking the family away to celebrate or if you just don't fancy cooking every evening – and prices start from 30 euros per hour.

Space for extended family

The Finca Son Rito is ideal for a large family get-together – it sleeps up to 16 and has several terraces, an outdoor pool house with games room and barbecue, and a self-contained annexe, so that (much as you may love your family) there is always somewhere to escape to should you need it. Everybody can have their own space while still enjoying a shared holiday.

We were treated to a delicious traditional meal of tapas, pan b'oli and lamb, and the real highlight was the fact that it was warm enough to eat outsde. The next morning we woke to the rooster, more sunshine and a leisurely breakfast around the huge wooden table in the rustic dining room. Part of the fun of staying in a real family home (the family return to take up residence during the winter months), is being surrounded by family possessions – the large dresser in the dining room stocked with crockery, paintings on the walls, and a cosy atmosphere that couldn't be replicated in a rental-only building.

The finca is well sited for lots of outings (once we managed to drag ourselves away from the pool). The nearby village Felanitx is a great option for some people-watching in one of the pavement cafés, a Sunday morning market is a bustling affair, with the narrow streets overlooked by the imposing Església de Sant Miquel, a 16th-century church.

Mallorcan Farmhouses can arrange a variety of activities to suit every age and energy level, including cycling, sea kayaking, horse riding, wine tasting, cookery classes and spa days. A horse-riding trip was part of our itinerary – much to my dismay. I grew up in the country but always kept a safe distance from all horses – yes, they are beautiful animals; no, I don't want to climb on their backs. However, the rest of the group were well up for the experience so I decided I would go along and have a look at the horses at least.

Horse riding

Once we arrived at the stables and everybody was donning riding hats and leaping athletically into saddles, it seemed a bit churlish to refuse to at least try. I'll get on the horse, then say I don't really feel comfortable and get off again, I told myself as I gingerly put my foot in a stirrup, aided by the nice man from the stables. Once on the horse however I couldn't quite figure out how to get off again, and so much to my surprise I found myself out in the middle of the Mallorcan countryside on horseback!

The Son Menut stable is a long established equestrian centre, offering short trips, daylong rides or 'horse holidays' in their on-site accommodation, and they obviously know what they are doing as my horse was carefully chosen and didn't do anything to frighten me once during the excursion – in fact I quite enjoyed it.

We also took a trip to the Bodegues Macia Batle, a vineyard producing gorgeous Mallorcan wine, where we were treated to a tour of the winery by the very knowledgeable Lena – this was rather more my style of activity.

Trip highlight

But the highlight of the trip was the interactive cooking course back in the finca, where we were taught the 'Pillars of Paella' by Rebecca, an Australia woman who knows a thing or two about Spanish cooking. Whipping up a few tapas for us to nibble on as we worked (ie occasionally stirred a panful of steaming seafood or lazily chopped a tomato or two), Rebecca talked us through the history and preparation of the dish, giving us lots of valuable cooking tips on Spanish food in general, as well as creating for the eight of us one of the best dinners we had ever tasted. Prices start from 90 euros for the experience, which includes the cost of the ingredients.

Eating is of course one of the great pleasures in Spain – even a hunk of delicious bread dipped in richly aromatic local olive oil becomes a sublime dining experience. Tapas are available wherever you go – at whatever time; even the smallest bar will offer the most delicious of these small dishes. But to treat ourselves to some contemporary Spanish cooking, we visited the Rapa Nui restaurant in nearby Cas Concos des Cavaller (00 34 971 83 96 43), offering Mediterranean cooking with a modern twist.

City tour

And then it was our last day in Mallorca, with just enough time left to take in a city tour of Palma. Wander through the narrow streets of the old quarter near the port with its beautiful Baroque and Gothic architecture, peer into lush coutyards dating from the 15th century and take in the Moorish influences all about – and consider the fact that Palma has more museums than Barcelona. Organise a personal guided tour if you want to learn more about the city's history. Visit www.itineraris.org for more information.

You'll leave having opened your eyes to the magic of Mallorca, and will never confuse it with lager-lout-culture again.

Find out more

Mallorca Farmhouses offers an extensive portfolio of exclusive villas, country retreats and rustic farmhouses, all with private pools, maid service and complimentary car hire.
Prices for Finca Son Rito start from £2,265 per week. Smaller properties available from £204 per week for a one-bedroom farmhouse.
All of the activities mentioned - and more - can be booked prior to departure with Mallorca Farmhouses by calling 0118 947 3001 or in resort with Balearic Discovery.
For more information or reservations contact Mallorca Farmhouses on 0118 947 3001.

Updated 2009

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