Find happiness in Sligo

These days Ireland is a very happy place to be. A recent survey found that the majority of its residents claimed to be happy 'all of the time' or 'most of the time', putting Ireland to the top of the satisfaction ranks among its European neighbours. Ironic then that a new advertising slogan for the country's Labour Party asks 'But are you happy?' For a party currently languishing on the backbenches the unfortunate answer is a resounding 'Yes, we're grand thanks very much'.

The west coast of Ireland has the look of a place where happiness should flow. Beautiful countryside, unspoilt beaches and wide-open spaces to make you feel you've finally cracked the attempt to 'get away from it all'.

Sligo is a little gem of a town on the north west coast. Less feted than its 'hard-selling' neighbours Galway and Clare, it is a place to escape tour buses and the worst excesses of the tourist industry, which each year brings millions of visitors to the country. From Sligo on a clear day you can see Newfoundland – well that's what we used to tell the tourists anyway.

Because I might as well declare an interest now, I grew up in Sligo and it's still called 'home', somewhere I return to several times a year. However, it's changed completely since I lived there in the '70s and '80s – now a flourishing town of bustling streets, new shops, plush hotels, and a river promenade of cafes, bars and smart restaurants. (I could add 'lively pubs' but, let's face it, the pubs were always lively.)

Where to stay

The newest hotel on the Sligo scene is The Glasshouse, with its visually stunning design and perfect location – poised like a ship in full sail on the edge of the river Garavogue at the top of the town's main shopping street. Drawing design inspiration from the county's maritime history as an important port, the city's docks just metres away were once a busy hub for ships from all over the world. Accessed by the Sligo channel from Rosses Point, a seaside village five miles north, one of the most famous shipping families were poet WB Yeats' maternal grandparents, the Pollexfens, and the poet spent much of his childhood in Sligo.

 

We enjoy his company for the duration of our stay in The Glasshouse, as the bronze statue erected to commemorate the 50th anniversary of his death is directly opposite our balcony. It is sited outside the imposing stone building housing the Ulster Bank (a building, said Yeats as he accepted the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1924, that reminded him of the Stockholm Royal Palace where the presentation ceremony was being held).

Riverside buzz

The views from our balcony are fantastic; Yeats aside we can see far down the river and the sound of the rapids rushing through the small weir below is the restful soundtrack to our weekend. Sligo is just one of a number of Irish towns to reclaim its riverbanks, once the site only of derelict warehouses. Now lively bars such as the Left Bank (with live music at night) and the Osta café bar next door face Grappa, a wine and tapas bar on the opposite bank, alongside the hugely popular Fiddler's Creek bar and restaurant.

 

Away from the river there are equally great places to eat; the Bistro on O'Connell St offers the best pizza this side of Italy, while nearby Poppadom is an award-winning and very contemporary Indian restaurant.

We decide to give The Glasshouse dining room a go for dinner that evening; with its riverside wall of glass and wide promenade, it's just like dining on a ship! And the food doesn't disappoint; there's a great selection of seafood on the menu alongside all the normal meat and vegetarian choices; the food, as far as possible, is sourced locally.

A hearty breakfast sets us up for the next day, with a big buffet selection of hot and cold food, there's the obligatory fry-up, cold meats and cheeses, delicious brown bread and scones, as well as the usual fruits, cereals, yoghurts and pastries.

Shopping

The hotel is perfectly positioned for shopping, and although many UK High St chains have set up in Sligo, there's enough locally owned and family businesses to make the experience unique. Check out Carraig Donn and Mullaney Bros' (Gentleman's Outfitters and General Drapers) on O'Connell St for authentic Irish designer wear; turn the corner into Grattan St for gorgeous pottery, jewellery and crafts in Cross Sections and Tir na nOg, and on to Kate's Kitchen to pick up fine Irish foods.

Riverside bars are the perfect place to enjoy an early evening drink, with tables and chairs outside the whole place has a very continental feel – even in winter – but al fresco eating and drinking is not just a lifestyle choice in Ireland. Since the smoking ban in all public places a few years ago, the country has become a nation of outdoor revellers.

Irish music

But for a more traditional experience and some real Irish pubs, leave the river behind and head instead for Sheela nGig on Bridge St, the pub owned by Irish musicians Dervish, and a great spot to catch an Irish music session. Connolly's on Hyde Bridge, just around the corner from Yeats and, again, right opposite our balcony, is said to serve the best pint of Guinness in the town; and the tiny Shoot the Crows on Grattan St is a favourite hang out of artists, writers and musicians – another great place for Irish music.

Accessible for a weekend trip from the UK, or a great base from which to explore the surrounding countryside on a longer visit, Sligo is one to add to the 'must visit soon' list. You won't be disappointed.

Where to go for more information

* For a complete guide to Sligo visit www.discoversligo.com; for general information on visiting Ireland see www.discoverireland.com
* The Glasshouse Hotel, www.theglasshouse.ie; telephone 00 353 71 9194300; special opening offer of £99 bed and breakfast per room, subject to availability
* Ryanair flies from the UK to Ireland West Knock airport (just 40 minutes drive from Sligo) daily; www.ryanair.com or www.knockairport.com
* Sligo airport is located 9km from the town centre; there are two flights daily to Dublin airport for onward connecting flights to the UK; www.sligoairport.com ; 00 353 71 9168280