A weekend in… Anglesey

Beaumaris Castle in Wales with countryside behine

As far back as the 12th century, the Welsh have referred to the island of Anglesey, just off the north coast of Wales, as a place of generous sustenance. Cross the Menai bridge from the mainland onto Anglesey and you pass a sign welcoming you to ‘Mon, Mam Cymru’ (‘Anglesey, mother of Wales’), a reference to its traditional role as food provider to the rest of Wales, thanks to its richly fertile soil.

While tourism supplements farming as a significant source of island income these days, echoes of this abundant history continue in what is a decidedly foodie destination, and never more so than in October, when Anglesey hosts its annual Oyster Festival. The growing success of this gourmet celebration is testimony to the fact that the Mother of Wales has long had something rather special in her well-stocked larder: world-class oysters that hail from the fast-flowing water of the Menai Strait.

It would be entirely possible, and enjoyable, to spend a weekend on Anglesey sampling the oysters and then following an informal gastronomic trail around the island (for itinerary ideas, visit www.islandofchoice.com). But to stick to this one theme would be to miss the very best of the island: its 125-mile coastal path. Opened last year, this winds past glorious, unspoilt beaches such as the handsome, broad sweep of Red Wharf Bay and the exquisite smaller cove of Borthwen near Rhoscolyn, and gives walkers a privileged view of dramatic, ever-changing scenery cloaked in hues of emerald and mossy greens, turquoise and indigo, heathery brown and ancient grey. Best of all, this relatively undiscovered coastline offers activities for all fitness levels and moods, from sedate to thrill-seeking.

Birdwatchers should head for the coastal path around South Stack lighthouse, where the infectiously enthusiastic staff at Ellin’s Tower RSPB Seabird Centre provide displays, binoculars and CCTV of seabirds, including razorbills, guillemots and puffins, with a helpful daily list of the birds and flowers you can expect to see along the coastal path. For equilibrium-restoring big skies and quietude, visit Penmon Priory in the north-east of Anglesey, a 12th-century religious complex sitting in splendid, contemplative isolation across the water from the dreamy peaks of Snowdonia. Here, the island’s palpable sense of history and unspoilt charms unite to create a meditative gem of a spot.

The best town in which to base yourself is the charming Beaumaris, with its moated medieval castle, gaily painted Georgian terraces and well-heeled but friendly air. Once a fashionable Victorian watering hole, Beaumaris now boasts thriving independent shops, art galleries, a good choice of restaurants and water sports facilities.

Three miles from Beaumaris is Anglesey’s newest and most unusual place to stay, The Windmill. This 1741 structure, converted into a luxurious holiday let, has a hot tub in the secluded garden and a top-floor lounge with unrivalled views. The pleasure of a weekend here is partly novelty – it’s like living in a sturdy helter-skelter – but it’s really about enjoying part of the island’s heritage in great style. We returned to The Windmill after a day’s coastal walking to find Champagne on ice – the owner’s version of a welcome pack – waiting by the front door. Drinking it as we stargazed from the hot tub, we concluded that Anglesey has everything you could want for a weekend away: oysters, Champagne and more than a small island’s fair share of the great outdoors. Three nights at The Windmill cost from £255. To book, call 01248 490011 or visit www.whitebeachholiday.co.uk.

The first 24 hrs

● Hit the shops: Be sure to go shopping in characterful Beaumaris. Highlights include Sarah’s Deli (11 Church Street, 01248 811534), splendid antique Welsh furniture at M. Jones a’i Fab Antiques (42 Castle Street, 01248 490009), and stylish clothes and homeware at Cole & Co (13 Church Street, 01248 811391).

● Get on your bike: Pick up a Rural Cycling on Anglesey leaflet from a tourist office and hire bikes at Canolfan Iorwerth Rowlands Centre in Beaumaris (Steeple Lane, 01248 811508). Whizz by Penmon Priory, Red Wharf Bay and Black Point, with its views of Puffin Island.

● Take to the water: Anglesey’s rugged, unspoilt coastline lends itself to aquatic challenges, and Anglesey Adventures (01407 761777, www.angleseyadventures.co.uk) offers a great range of adrenaline-pumping activities. Popular options include extreme adventure coasteering, which might include abseiling over the biggest open cave in Wales, and kayaking alongside the island’s spectacular coastal stacks.

Lazy Sunday

● Scoff some seafood: The annual Oyster Festival celebrates the excellent local seafood and the best Anglesey produce. The weekend includes a food fair, with a cooking demonstration and a hotly contested sausage competition, plus an awards ceremony for the best Anglesey producers and a gala seafood dinner (01248 725715, www.angleseyoysterfestival.com).

● Saddle up: The Isle of Anglesey Riding Centre (01248 430377, www.tal-y-foel.co.uk) offers two-hour rides along the Menai Strait shore. It also arranges tailored rides exploring Anglesey’s rich history, including the stable’s own noteworthy past: the ferry to the mainland ran from here from 1464 to 1862.

● Walk the coast path: Hiking on a section of the 125-mile Anglesey Coastal Path, almost all of which is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, is an absolute must. Consult Carl Rogers’ The Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path – Official Guide (£9.99, sold all over the island and through www.amazon.co.uk) or www.angleseycoastalpath.com. The area from Trearddur Bay to Holyhead Mountain, taking in South Stack lighthouse, is especially rewarding.

Where to eat

● Café Neptune, 27 Castle Street, Beaumaris (01248 812990). Downstairs a fish and chip shop, upstairs a great fish restaurant that serves local, organic and wild catches.

● Neuadd Lwyd, Penmyndd (01248 715005, www.neuaddlwyd.co.uk). Sublime country-house-with-rooms setting for delectable four-course dinners.

● Old Boathouse Café and Quarterdeck Restaurant, Red Wharf Bay (01248 852731). Superb local crab and lobster, plus heart-soaring and beautiful views of the sea.

● Sarah’s Delicatessen and Coffee House, 11-13 Church Street, Beaumaris (01248 811534). Stylish deli for picnic fare and café with scrumptious menu.

● The White Eagle, Rhoscolyn (01407 860267, www.white-eagle.co.uk). Best pub food on Anglesey, with award-winning commitment to local produce.

Getting there

Anglesey is reached by the Menai Suspension Bridge (vehicles only) from the A55, and the Britannia Bridge (trains and vehicles) from the A5. Mainline trains stop at Holyhead and Llanfairpwll on the island, and Arriva Wales (08701 201088, www.arrivabus.co.uk) runs regular bus services from Bangor to Beaumaris.