How to afford luxury in Venice

Tired of the credit crunch? You bet we are. When did the fun get sucked out of life? If you are determined to be decadent, despite the tales of doom and gloom, then how about this for an idea? Affordable decadence in Venice!

  Welcoming Great Hall of the Luna Hotel BaglioniPick an exotically glamorous city, the sort of place that is totally unique. The sort of place that will make you want to cry with its beauty.

 

Then make sure Ryanair fly there.

 

Pick a hotel. A five-star hotel.  A hotel that is luxurious and sumptuous, a truly one-off.

 

Then make sure the city is close enough to justify a short-term stay, so you can splash out on luxury for two nights, rather than ekeing out a budget for five.

 

Put it all together and what do you have? The Luna Hotel Baglioni in Venice, a short trip from Venice Treviso airport, served by three Ryanair flights daily. A return flight cost me just under £100 and that was in high season.

 

And who cares you’re flying Ryanair when you get off the plane and, a short bus ride away, transfer to a boat for what has to be one of the most scenic airport-to-city commutes in the world. Save money by not hiring a private water taxi, take the vaporetto – water bus – instead.  It will still be one of the most jaw-dropingly scenic and exhilarating experiences in the world. Arriving on the pier, the hotel is only a short stroll through the busy stalls and milling tourists thronging the waterfront; nip through the majestic St Mark’s Square and it’s just around the corner – easy!

 

If you do decide to treat yourself to the speedboat – and credit crunch be damned – the Luna Baglioni has its own private dock outside the front door. And arriving through that door is like entering into an other-worldly haven, far removed from the bustle outside.

 

The ornate interior is stylish, yet welcoming; around the corner from reception the elegant Caffē Baglioni has a view of the canal and a small terrace where I later sip a Venetian espresso. The Luna Baglioni is the oldest hotel in Venice and – get this – has the only working fireplace in the city, its operation permitted by a special decree of the city governors.

 

Rooms in the Luna Baglioni start at deluxe level. I, much to my delight, have a suite and there is a suitably impressive silence from myself and the porter as he opens the door with a flourish. We both stare down acres of carpeted hallway to a vast drawing room at the end. I dance around happily once he has gone and my luggage has arrived, checking it all out.

 

There's a sumptuous four poster bed in the bedroom, French windows to a – small – balcony, with – just about – a view of the Grand Canal, a glittering marble-tiled bathroom with spa bath, plus a walk-in dressing room that is as big as the bedroom in my flat in London. And a drawing room with two sets of dining furniture and elaborately over-stuffed armchairs. Again, do this for two nights only and it becomes affordable.

 

The hotel shares a street with Missoni, Roberto Cavali, Gucci and Pucci I notice when I make my way back outside to explore. Its perfectly central location makes it the ideal place for a wander through the beautiful streets – and in Venice it doesn’t matter where you think you are going, you will get lost. But that doesn’t matter either, as it is all equally breathtaking and pretty much as it was 400 years ago. Few cities are better suited to walking than Venice, with winding narrow streets and large piazzas punctuated by hundreds of hump-backed bridges and lapping waterways.

 

Cost-effective 

 

Venice is not cheap, but if you look you will find restaurants that offer good deals. Try to avoid the main piazzas, and remember you automatically are charged a hefty mark-up for choosing to sit outdoors rather than inside; head for the local areas past the small park on the Riva dei Sette Martiri and check out the local bars for more affordable prices. You won’t pay as little as the locals (Venetians operate a hierarchical price structure and tourists automatically pay more than residents), but then they do have to put up with having their city overrun with us.

 

If you are really pushing the boat out – pardon the pun – the Canova restaurant at the Luna Baglioni boasts an award-winning chef in Carlo Lazzaron and gorgeous surroundings. And at the top level of accommodation in the hotel, two of the biggest suites have marble floors throughout and views of the canal, while the Presidential Suite occupying the two top floors of the building has its own roof terrace. Unfortunately I don’t get to have a peek as all are occupied during my visit – proof that the credit crunch is not affecting us all.

 

Family hotel 

 

Unusually for such a classy establishment, the hotel welcomes children and will provide cots and bottle warmers on request. There is also, I note, a children’s section in the breakfast buffet next morning, though no kids in sight on this particular day.

 

The breakfast room is suitably grand and dominated by two large frescos of elegantly attired Venetians hob-nobbing. As I am in Italy, the home of many-coursed meals, for breakfast I have a cereal course, a fruit course, a fish (smoked salmon course), a cheese course and a course of croissants and pastries to finish. Who knows what Italian breakfast sensibilities I have offended but it is all delicious and I wash it down with a glass of Prosecco from the juice table.

 

Leaving in luxury 

 

I resist the urge to text my friends to tell them I am drinking Italian champagne for breakfast in a Venetian palazzo – but only because I don’t want to feel the waves of hate rolling towards me that early in the morning. It’s a pleasant extravagance – my only other being the fact I take a water taxi back to the airport. Travelling with friends, the fare is a respectable 20 euros each, and racing along in a stunningly stylish timber speedboat, the whole thing feels like we’ve strayed into a James Bond film. What more fitting way to leave Venice?

 

 

Fact box

 

The Luna Hotel Baglioni is located on the Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1243, Venice 30124, just around the corner from St Mark’s Square. Rooms from 387 euros per night, but visit the hotel website www.baglionihotels.com for best available rates, or phone 00 39 041 5289840.

 

Baglioni offers a range of luxury hotels in Italy, Budapest and London. For a treat closer to home, visit the London Baglioni at 60 Hyde Park Gate, phone 00 44 207 3685700.

 

The group has recently teamed up with Red-Travel and Ferrari to offer self-drive tours in Italy; driving the latest model and staying at a luxury Baglioni hotel. For more information email redtravelferrari@baglionihotels.com or phone 00 39 02 773331.

 

See pictures

 

Take a 'virtual stroll' around the Luna Hotel Baglioni - and outside into Venice, click here