Make time for the Maldives

The Maldives are not sold as a budget destination. Well, they're not, are they? For most of us, this unlikely Republic of 1,192 islands, scattered like jewels from a broken necklace beneath the southern tip of India, is a once-in-a-lifetime destination. Since the birth of tourism here in 1972, there has been no looking back. The plethora of five-star, quasi-floating, secluded establishments have proved a magnet for honeymooners as well as for habitual paparazzi-fleeing celebs.

 

But where hotels such as Soneva Fushi and Reethi Rah have become bywords in barefoot opulence with daily rates approaching a stratospheric £1,000, a new more low-key resort has recently appeared on the horizon, bringing life, luxury and discerning guests to the tiny island of Dhigufinolhu. Its name is Anantara.

 

As our plane banked towards our destination, haloes of electric-vibrant turquoise became visible below, highlighting the indigo sea. These brilliant patches seemed to be bounded by white rings – waves, on closer inspection, breaking on the coral reef. Some islands were identifiable by sprouting greenery at the epicentre of the turquoise rings. Others seemed little more than shallow mounds of palest coral sand. Still others were so low-lying and flat they were hard to make out, apparently sinking below the level of the surrounding reef like a submerged crater.

 

Anantara had sent its launch to meet us at the airport and, suddenly, we were a part of this waterworld, the power of 400 wild horses speeding us over the translucent ocean.

 

Once beyond the sea traffic and buildings of the capital, Malé (all 2 sq km of it), we entered a universe of pristine natural beauty. Dazzling sun, unblemished skies, sparkling waters – and tiny, seemingly forgotten, islands. Only 200 are inhabited, with resorts occupying around 90 more. After some 40 minutes aboard, Anantara finally hove into view, the island's immaculate shoreline hugging the lagoon in a welcoming embrace.

 

Anantara consists of 108 villas - four with private pools - occupying the tiny five-acre island, and facing the glorious pyrotechnics of either the rising or setting sun. Forty of the villas are typical of the Maldives, raised as they are on stilts above the water. This architectural strategy not only provides a heavenly scenario – lapping waters, sea breezes, direct access to the sea, total privacy – but is also in keeping with environmental requirements to minimise the developer's footprint on land, only 20% of which may be built upon.

 

Inside, all is space and light, the villas lined with wood, their pitched roofs covered in palm leaf thatch known as cadjan, and with an area of decking extending over either beach or water. Beachfront villa bathrooms are a particular tour de force, enclosed within large, leafy walled gardens, romantically candlelit at night, and open to the skies. And with four sumptuous restaurants to choose from, there seems little incentive to venture beyond the island's shores…

 

Yet there is plenty to tempt one from the blissful attraction of sloth nurtured by cocktails and fish-burgers around the infinity pool... An early-morning walk through ankle-deep waters to the sandbank, almost at the outer reef, is de rigueur. And how can you visit the Maldives without at least a peek into the fascinating fishy world of the coral reefs? For serious divers, the hotel provides scuba facilities. Wimps, like me, make do with snorkelling in sheltered waters.

 

We extended our universe with a boat trip to “Castaway Island”, and lazed on powdery sands in the shade of kani trees. When the heat became too much, we flopped into the soupy waters and flippered in search of fish. We had not far to look. Shoals of yellow, blue-striped fish nibbled at bread from our fingers. Transparent fish darted about like a ghostly creation of Philippe Starck, bright parrot fish mouthed cartoonishly, spiny-backed fish dared you to approach, and open-scissor-tailed fish scared all the others away. By the time we emerged, goggle-eyed, from the water, half the island had disappeared beneath the rising tide, and our barbecue lunch was ready, complete with white linen, magicked from nowhere by hotel staff.

 

Back at Anantara, I had an appointment at the Spa. I yielded to the tender ministrations of Thai-trained staff who pummelled me to within inches of Nirvana, slathering me in heady oils of patchouli and sandalwood (take your pick of fragrances). From the comfort of my couch in this over-water spa suite, I was able to gaze through the glass below, to watch the choreography of sting rays, baby black-tip sharks (harmless) and bright blue as-yet-unidentified fish swimming in the clear, light-dappled waters.

 

As evening fell, we boarded a donghi – the traditional wooden swan-necked boat of the Maldives - for a leisurely sunset cruise. As the champagne and canapés appeared, so did the dolphins – small and playful and ridiculously athletic as they dived, twisted and back-flipped before us in a display of mammalian one-upmanship.

 

The sun gradually fell behind the horizon, and the sky grew inky, filling with the fattest, juiciest stars… We returned to dry land with thoughts of dinner – Thai food perhaps, tonight, at the Baan Huraa restaurant, perched on a pontoon and accessible only by boat. Our dinner-to-be was probably being wrested from the sea, even as we dithered over where to eat. And as if this were not romantic enough, lovebirds can opt for a tête-à-tête dinner on their own deserted island nearby – ferried thither and served by the ever-discreet and attentive staff.

 

Alas, these Paradise Isles are not long for this world. The Maldives may have recovered from the tsunami, but they are sinking fast. As global warming hikes ups the sea level by almost 1cm a year, the prognosis is dire. According to some scientists, within 100 years the Maldives will be engulfed beneath the waters of the Indian Ocean; other scientists, less sanguine, give them a mere 30 years reprieve. The bad news makes for a good slogan: hurry to the Maldives, while they're still there!

 

Find out more

Kuoni Travel (01306 747008) offers seven nights at Anantara Resort, Maldives, in a deluxe beachfront villa with breakfast, including flights with Emirates Airlines from Gatwick and transfers in resort. Prices for 2007 from £1,753 per person in December 2009, based on two sharing.

 

Updated 2009

 

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