Somewhere to stay: Marriott County Hall, South Bank, London

What's the hotel like?

If you've been to central London, chances are you've seen the Marriott County Hall. It's that imposing Portland stone building across the river from the Houses of Parliament, just behind the London Eye. Built in 1922, the building was opened by King George V, and was the home of London's local government for 68 years. As you enter the central courtyard from Westminster Bridge Road and the busy, bustling South Bank, those thick walls shut out the city noise, and give an air of calm.

The five-star Marriott hotel takes up part of the massive complex, which is also home to the London Aquarium, the London Film Museum, and many restaurants and bars. Within the hotel, the 'corridors of power', as we referred to them during our stay, feature thick carpets, wood panelling, and historic photos. The political memorabilia everywhere is a real memory-jogger, as I enjoyed London during the 'reign' of Ken Livingstone, with lots of free cultural events, and the unforgettable stunt of putting the latest unemployment figures on the roof of County Hall, where they couldn't be missed by the government across the river.

What are the rooms like?

There are 200 bedrooms and suites, and ours possessed simply the best view I've ever had from a hotel. As the friendly man who showed us to our room said, pointing to the TV: 'If you need a clock there's this - or that!', pointing to Big Ben across the river. I kept making up reasons to walk from the bed area past the seating area, over towards the bathroom and desk/dressing table, just to catch another glimpse. Three steps led up to a balcony with table and two chairs, tucked in beneath the top of the building, with stunning views.

Usefully, there's an ironing board and iron inside the wardrobe (plus a trouser press on the wall) - both of which we used. Although many hotels offer an ironing service, it always seems like too much of a faff to phone and wait - much quicker to do it yourself. And a hotel first for us: an umbrella hanging in the wardrobe!

How's the bed?

Marriott beds are deservedly known for their comfort: vast, and softly yielding but firmly supportive, with piles of pillows and Egyptian cotton sheets, backed by a big wooden headboard.

What's in the bathroom?

Within its marble walls, the shower and bath are separate, with reassuringly sturdy period fixtures and fittings, with Quercus toiletries on the side. Thoughtful touches include separate tissues for blowing your nose, and facial use, and there are fluffy robes and slippers to lounge around in.

What about eating and drinking?

The County Hall restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with views out to Westminster Bridge and beyond. The menu is international and I can vouch for the tomato and basil soup, pepper and smoked cheese tartlet - and some absolutely sublime mash. An oozy chocolate fondant finished the meal perfectly.

After dinner (or for an apéritif) don't miss the Leader's Bar, an atmospheric time machine of a bar, with political sketches, photos and cartoons covering the walls.

Take afternoon tea in the Library Lounge (even if you're not staying here), which is lined with antique bookcases filled with reference books relating to the building's former use: legal tomes, works on planning issues, political reviews.

Anything else?

As a guest, you have free use of the spa and swimming pool on the fifth floor. An early-morning swim made a refreshing start to my day, but you could also go for a soothing late-night dip; it's open until 11pm.

What's nearby?

Staying here, you're smack bang in the heart of London, perfectly placed to cram as much as possible into a weekend stay. with the South Bank's cultural complex on your doorstep, along with the London Eye. Stroll across the Millennium Bridge to Covent Garden's shops, bars, restaurants, markets and theatres, with the shops and sights of the West End not far beyond, or take a sightseeing boat trip along the river.

What does it cost?

Standard double room rate is from £195; with river view, from £245. Book a winter weekend by February 6 2012, and save 20% on weekend rates, including breakfast.