The dazzling delights of Damascus

Experience the romantic charm of Syria's capital. By Karen Higginbottom

Damascus. Just that one word is imbued with a sense of romance and history. It lays claim to being one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and has been invaded by the Greeks, Romans, Crusaders and the Turks. It's also attracted the attention of notable female adventuresses such as Gertrude Bell and Lady Jane Digby.

 

I arrived in Damascus filled with a sense of anticipation. This city was a key staging post on the silk route. What delights would it have to offer? For my answer, I headed straight to the Old City, whose character and architecture is mediaeval Islamic and remains unchanged from that time to an amazing degree.

 

The shopping delights of the souk

 

You get a real sense of what Damascus was like in the 13th century as you wander deeper and deeper into a maze of blind alleys, coffee-houses and bazaars that make up the Old City. As I meandered through the main market, Souq Al-Hamidiyya, which leads to the heart of the Old City, my eye was particularly drawn to some of the stores selling underwear that would make a drag queen blush.

 

If the type of lingerie on offer is any indication, beneath the conservative veneer of the Syrian woman lies the heart of a brazen seductress. I was shown items such as chocolate knickers, a diamanté crotchless thong and bras with wooden canaries attached to the nipples. I was almost blinded by the amount of sequins and gold lamé on display. If you plan on buying any lingerie here, head to Souq Nasir, a small alleyway discreetly located off the main market.

 

The rest of Souq Al-Hammidyya is populated by traders selling glitzy souvenir shops, brightly coloured headscarves and gowns. Souq Al-Hammiidyya is also home to some of the city's best antique and craft shops. I would highly recommend Tony Stephan's at No 156 who has a wide range of beautiful textiles, sumptuous mother-of-pearl inlaid furniture and intricately engraved copper and brassware. Prices are not cheap but the quality is superb.

 

A lovely coffee stop

 

I stopped for a coffee break at the delightful Beit Jabri, a lovely 17th-century Damascene house which is an excellent place to unwind after a few intense hours of haggling with traders. I sat in a peaceful courtyard surrounded by trendy young locals alternating between sips of coffee and smoking from the sheesha pipe. Fuelled by caffeine, I explored further and visited the enchanting seed bazaar (Souq al-Bzouriyaa), the covered area running south from the Umayyad Mosque. There is an eclectic mix of stalls filled with spices, perfumes, nuts and sweets, all vying for your attention.

 

Last but not least, I finished off my souk experience by eating delicious Syrian ice-cream at Bakdash in the Souk al-Hamidiyya. Here, I watched an enormously muscular man delicately chipping away at a mountain of semolina-based ice cream and placing small portions into plastic cups topped with pistachio nuts. These were quickly gobbled up by the waiting hordes of people.  

 

Where to eat?

 

Top of my hit list of places to eat was the highly recommended Al-Hallabi restaurant in the Four Seasons hotel. The chef serves up refined Aleppan cuisine such as Kibbeh with quince and pomegranate sauce. I had to taste one of the chef's own inventions, which was hummus with mouhamara-otherwise known as a spicy capsicum dip. The dishes are so delicious that it's hard not to over-eat, so make sure that you're hungry beforehand to do full justice to the food.

 

Where to sleep?

 

A revolution is occurring within the Old City where there used to be a dearth of luxury hotels. There are now a number of old palaces that have been tastefully converted into boutique hotels. The beautifully-restored 17th-century boutique hotel Al Mamlouka (www.almamlouka.com) is an oasis of tranquillity nestled in the heart of the Old City. The focal point of the eight-bedroom boutique hotel is its quiet courtyard dominated by an orange and lemon tree. The rooms are decorated with heavy curtains, rich brocades and Oriental chandliers.

 

If you prefer to stay in a modern hotel in the newer part of the city, then head for the opulent and swanky Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com) situated close to the National Museum. You can be surrounded with all the creature comforts you desire and the service is top-notch. Its restaurant Al-Hallabi (see where to eat) has also earned a reputation as one of the Damascus's best restaurants. 

 

 

Karen Higginbottom is a freelance journalist who writes for the Guardian and other business publications. She has also written spa reviews for handbag.com. Her website is www.karenhigginbottom.co.uk

 

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