Take the road-trip of a lifetime - to Florida Keys

Immerse yourself in the captivating surroundings of Florida Keys. By Sian Claire Owen

It's mid afternoon. We're driving down a long, lonely road that crosses the open sea. On the left the sun hits the water creating a sparkling display of blues, greens and turquoise. On the right, an intense blue sky melts into the emerald ocean. Mangrove bushes line the roadside; the roots bleached white from salt and sun jut out of the water in a frenzied tangle, supporting a mess of vivid green and yellow leaves. Natural chaos is at odds with the concrete road, a flat grey line spearing into the distance. There is no sound except the purr of the engine and the low hiss of the FM radio. This is the gateway to Florida Keys, in the USA's most southerly state.

 

Built on ancient coral reefs, The Keys are made up of over 1,700 islands that trail off the end of America. At their widest point, they are no more than four miles across, with only one road connecting the main islands from top to bottom. I was on the trip of a lifetime, making my way from Key Largo, the northernmost island, to Key West - a mere 90 miles from Cuba.

 

After arriving at Miami International Airport and picking up our hired car, our first stop was about two hours drive away - the Key Largo Grande Resort & Beach Club, a delightful, airy hotel on the west side of the island. Every night, from my balcony I watched the spectacular sunset over the Florida Straits, with the Everglades dotting the horizon. There are few natural beaches in Florida Keys, but here was a small, sandy enclosure where palm trees offered shade from the all-year-round sun. The wind rustling through the trees added to the soothing ambience. But if I thought this would set the tone for the rest of the trip, I was in for a big surprise. The Keys can be exhilarating as they are tranquil, with water sports, nature trails and fishing trips galore.

 

The Keys are renowned for fantastic cuisine, especially where seafood is concerned. Wherever you decide to eat, fresh food is standard - so fresh the claws are clickin' and the tails are flippin!' - and all of it is delicious. You still get the American-sized portions, but it's all healthy so you don't need to worry about your waistline.

 

That night we visited Snappers Waterside Restaurant in Key Largo,a homely restaurant on a romantic marina. There we watched boats bob on the water, while enormous tarpons swam lazily in the water below. I had the day's catch - rare yellowfin steak, Dakota style, with roasted vegetables and creamy baked sweet potato. Polished off with some Key Lime pie, obviously!

 

The morning after we went for an early-morning snorkelling trip in the John Pennekamp State Park, where we saw the only living coral barrier reef in Northern America. Here, five miles from shore, you can swim with barracuda, spot endangered species of fish, and marvel at the eerie underwater coral structures.

 

If snorkelling isn't your cup of tea, there are countless other water activities you can have fun with. And fun is key in The Keys! You can swim with dolphins at the ‘Dolphins Plus' centre in Key Largo, or if it's action you crave then you're never far away from a jet ski or kite-surfing instructor willing to take you on a trip. You can even take a death-defying aerobatics session with racing pilot extraordinaire Fred Cabanas - you'll never be fazed by turbulence again!

 

If you want to get to grips with nature first hand, take one of Florida Keys' many eco-tours. The Keys were eco friendly before ‘eco' was invented, so you won't be disappointed. On our eco boat trip we spotted a huge eagle manta ray and wild dolphins. Tradition is that you sing to the dolphins and ask them for a blessing. Well, we were lucky enough to meet a group of four! ‘Happy Birthday' seemed to be their favourite, they even popped their heads out of the water and sang along!

 

After a day of snorkeling, diving and close encounters with the dolphin kind, we drove to the island of Islamorada, where we spent the evening at Pierre's Restaurant - an elegant old-style colonial mansion overlooking the Straits. Here we dined on an open balcony, and watched the stars peek out as the sun set over the ocean. I was won over by the exquisite menu - fine wines, inventive dishes, and of course more fresh fish than you could shake a stick (or rod) at. I had melt-in-the-mouth seared tuna steak with wasabi mashed potato and ginger followed by basil and strawberry sorbet. A thoroughly wonderful experience!

 

The Seven Mile Bridge took us to our most southern destination, Key West, one of the most colourful cities in America. Literally. Here luscious, exotic plants - orchids, strangler figs, red and orange hibiscus - thrive against a backdrop of tropical blue skies and brightly painted buildings.

 

Key West boasts hundreds of eccentric, tiny boutique hotels and B&Bs, which cater for all budgets and tastes. We stayed at the Cypress House Bed & Breakfast, one of the oldest buildings in the faded glory of the Old Town.There is real artistic heritage here - Ernest Hemingway lived in Key West for nine years where he wrote most of his classic novels, including ‘For Whom the Bell Tolls'. It is also one of the most liberal states in the US, and is considered the ‘Gay and Lesbian capital of the Southern Hemisphere'. In short, the place is a magnet for aspiring artists, musicians, and anyone wanting to embrace their inner bohemian.

 

The vibrant culture, romantic marinasand carnival atmosphere was a real treat. And although the main drag on Duval Street is brash and touristy, the tiny bars, museums, gardens and shops off the beaten track offer a truly quirky experience. Our stay in Key West passed in a whirl of colour, laughter, cocktails, music and art. But eventually it was time to hit the road again and head back north.

 

Our final destination was the exclusive Hawks Cay private island retreat, snuggled between the islands of Islamorada and Marathon. This resort boasts a marina, five swimming pools, a saltwater lagoon, a luxurious spa, gym and a dolphin research centre. It's a great place for families, and spacious enough for you not to be troubled by raucous children. The immaculate surroundings, plush suites and delicious food gave us the perfect opportunity to recover from the party in Key West!

 

But like all good things, this road trip had to end. On the morning of our departure I sat in the airy hotel breakfast suite, sipping hot coffee and tucking into my tequila-smoked salmon bagel. I watched the sunrise once more over the Florida Straits with a heavy heart. But although I was sad to leave, I was content in the knowledge that I had been on the journey of a lifetime.

 

Find out more

Florida Keys are about an hour's drive from Miami. British Airway Holidays offers a seven-night stay at Hawks Cay Resort in Key Largo from £697 per person including return BA flights from Heathrow to Miami and room only. This includes one free night. Visit the British Airways holidays website or call 0844 4930758. Visit the Official Florida Keys & Key West website for further information.

 

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