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Conquering Cornwall in a camper van
One couple and their children drive off in their holiday home on four wheels. By Carol Muskoron
My husband Jack was so keen on the idea of the camper van holiday - it was weird. As soon as the idea came up he was off on one about how he was going to take off with the wind in his hair and discover himself.
And when, the week before we went, we caught the end of 'Top Gear' and Jeremy Clarkson said (after cooking chips in a camper van and setting fire to it): 'Well, I think that we've categorically proved that there is absolutely nothing good to be said for campervanning' or words to that effect, Jack was indignant. How could Clarkson say that? It was ridiculous!
On the coach down to Cornwall, the kids played Uno all the way, and Jack and I sat and chatted - it was the first time we'd really relaxed together for a while. It was wonderful. It wasn't to last.
I think, strangely, that Jack's dream of self-discovery and camper vanning included a modern camper van complete with huge comfy double bed and toilet out the back. Instead we got Gracie - a gorgeous VW she had curves in all the right places. All the VW camper vans we met along the way at campsites had names, by the way - there was Jake, Ella, Saffy to name just three…
As we made off I wound down the window to wave goodbye to Angus and the handle came off in my hand. Was this a sign of things to come? Were we about to spend a week waiting by roadsides for the RAC? I needn't have worried: door handle aside Gracie was sturdy as anything - it was our relationship which, over the week, proved not so sturdy. I kept a diary of it all…
Day One
Highlights Taking off round the Cornish country lanes with Gracie; and our first sighting of another campervan (the kids jumping about like mad in the back making the VW sign (the code of the road that Angus taught us).
Lowlights Realisation that only one of the rings on the hob works; eating soggy spag bog in the rain.
Quote of the day
Nathan: 'Are we going home tomorrow?' - love the van though he does, he misses his bedroom already.
Day Two
Highlights Running into the sea with the kids (the Atlantic was wild and noisy); the kids giggling as they ran around the van while we cooked sausages and sipped beer.
Lowlights Realising Jack was going to crack if we didn't get off the beach - we quickly packed up Gracie and headed off to Tintagel Castle; having words with Jack about him peeing too near the van - he insists he will not roam around the dark countryside with a full bladder. I only want him to take five more paces away from Gracie.
Quote of the day
Jack, whilst frantically searching for his sweetener: 'I'm beginning to understand what Jeremy Clarkson was on about…'
Day Three
Highlights Those Atlantic waves again (whoosh!); filling Gracie's fridge and cupboards with goodies from Tesco and feeling thrillingly self-sufficient as we head back to the campsite.
Lowlights Realising yet again that Jack was going to crack if we didn't get off the beach; also Jack turfing everything out of Gracie while he searches for his glasses - he'll go stark, raving bonkers 'out here' if he can't at least read.
Quote of the day
Jack, to no one in particular: 'I'm going to Padstow. Come if you like.' We all packed up yet again and went with him and bought him a lobster to cheer him up. It seemed to work.
Day Four
Highlights We're camping in a farmer's field and it is just idyllic. The tap next to the van gives us fresh spring water!
Lowlights Jack admitting he's left the washing up liquid in the shower at the last campsite.
Quote of the day
Jack, turfing everything out of Gracie yet again whilst looking for his sweetener (again): 'There just isn't enough room in this thing!'
Day Five
Highlights Driving Gracie down to the idyllic shingle beach where she provided us with shelter from the sun, lunch and copious cups of tea. We love you, Gracie! Having the night off cooking and meeting Jack's cousin (a local) in a pub.
Lowlights Jack admitting he's left the shampoo in the shower at the last campsite.
Quote of the day
Jack sitting by the beach on his camper's chair next to Gracie whilst reading a paper (with glasses) and sipping one of the many cups of tea (with sweetener): 'I wonder why people bother with houses?'
Day Six
Highlights Pulling up to camp in a gateway on a farm and eating dinner watched by sheep and bullocks
Lowlight Informing the kids that there is no toilet here for poos and them jumping up and down instantly (and gleefully) insisting that they had to go NOW!
Quote of the day
Jack, eyeing a bullock suspiciously whilst giving the fence a good shove before settling down to his dinner: 'This fence is perfectly safe'.
Day Seven
Highlight The bullocks somehow break free and wander by while we're munching our breakfast. Jack jumps in the van. The bullocks saunter on passed up the road.
Lowlight Saying goodbye to Gracie. Sob!
Quote of the day
Jack: While driving her back to give her back to Angus at The VW CamperCompany: 'You know what? I'm going to miss her.' Like I said at the start: weird.
Further information
You can try Gracie - or any of the other VW camper vans - for yourself with The VW CamperCompany. Hire costs from £375 for a three-dayb weekend off-peak.
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