Head to Edinburgh

Ghostly goings-on in Scotland's capital city - braved by Fiona Raisbeck

Edinburgh. A place steeped in history, one of Europe's most beautiful cities and rich in Scotland's cultural heritage. From the enchanting picture-perfect buildings and cobbled streets to the steep rocky hills overlooking the sea, Edinburgh has got the lot. It's just so pretty.

 

But it's also one of the continent's premier destinations come Halloween. Who knew that Scotland's capital had such a spooky side? I certainly didn't before my trip. Its bloody history is well documented, of course, but what I discovered is that according to legend the place is crawling with ghosts, ghouls, poltergeists and things that go bump in the night. Yes, really. So I thought it would be worth a closer look.

 

What to see

First port of call on a ghost-hunting expedition in Edinburgh is The Real Mary King's Close, a spooky, underground labyrinth that gives a flavour of 17th-century life in the Scottish capital. Hidden beneath the Royal Mile lies this medieval Old Town alley of hidden closes, which has survived almost unchanged for 250 years. Thought to be one of Scotland's most haunted destinations this site has been the site of much paranormal activity. In particular, Annie's room, where a Japanese psychic recently claimed to have been confronted by the ghost of a little girl. Not for the faint-hearted this crumbling underground maze is dusty, dark and smelly (very) and legend has it that when the plague took hold of the city in 1645 many of those suffering from the disease were piled up in one of the closes and left to die with their spirits haunting the chambers to this day. Spooky.

 

Next up is the Edinburgh Dungeon, which offers a more light-hearted experience. It's like a giant haunted house fairground attraction with actors primed to scare the wits out of you for fun. It touches on all of Scotland's scariest and goriest historical events, including the lair of cannibal Sawney Bean, Edinburgh's Great Fire, the North Berwick witch trials and Braveheart himself, William Wallace. It also boasts interactive special effects, a chilling boat ride and the chance to experience hanging on the brand spanking new Drop Ride To Doom.

 

To continue the spooky theme, head for Greyfriars Kirkyard - a cemetery next to the church of Greyfriars where the famous Greyfriars Bobby is buried. For those that don't know, Greyfriars Bobby was a Skye terrier who maintained a vigil beside his master's grave for 14 years and who has now become a Scottish folk hero (despite being a dog). Many other famous Edinburgh names are buried here, including poet Allan Ramsay, and the graveyard is even said to be haunted by the Mackenzie poltergeist. Visitors can go on the hunt for the ghost by taking part in a City Of The Dead tour (book at the entrance to the graveyard). Be warned: hundreds of people have reported being attacked by the poltergeist. Allegedly.

 

A look round Edinburgh Castle is also must for any visitor to the city. Wherever you are in Edinburgh you can look up for this grand, old building to get your bearings and it is this, undoubtedly the city's most famous attraction, that makes Edinburgh so unique compared to other European destinations.

 

From the castle take a wander down the Royal Mile, with its boutique shops, pubs and restaurants, all the way down to the palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen's official residence in Scotland. You can also grab great views of Arthur's Seat (the main hill in Holyrood Park. If you walk to the top it offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city).

 

Where to stay

Nestled on a quiet road in Edinburgh's Old Town, The Knight Residence is just a short walk from all of the city's main attractions, including Edinburgh Castle, the Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Royal Mile. These stylish, homely and newly refurbished apartments are a welcome alternative to a hotel room. The superior apartments, which are spacious and comforting, come with one or two bedrooms; while a more wallet friendly comfort apartment comes in a choice of one, two or three bedrooms. The rooms are large, light and comfy with all the mod-cons you could desire: think widescreen TV plus sky (with all the sports channels, don't you know) washing machine, dishwasher, and so on. Then there's the staff, who are warm, charming and more than happy to help with any queries you may have, such as restaurant recommendations or how to get around the city.

 

Where to eat 

Note to all you foodies out there: if you head to Edinburgh you're really spoilt for choice. In the Old Town alone you will find many superb eateries, including Edinburgh's star restaurateur James Thomson's The Witchery By The Castle, arguably the city's finest dining destination. Perched at the top of the Royal Mile below the looming presence of Edinburgh Castle is the Witchery inside a beautiful 16th-century building, which serves up delicious food in a luxuriously gothic setting. Think painted ceilings, church candlesticks and opulent velvet interiors with a richly indulgent menu and you're there. This is one hell of a treat.

Another Edinburgh favourite is The Tower Restaurant, also owned by James Thomson, which resides atop the Museum of Scotland building. All decked out in decadent black leather, purple suede and steel this establishment is sleek and chic. The menu ain't too shabby either, serving up top quality Scottish produce - think succulent Aberdeen Angus fillet steak and Scottish oysters - with grand views of the famous castle while you dine.

On the picturesque Victoria Street is a personal favourite, Maison Bleue, recognisable from its bright blue exterior. Inside it is charming and atmospheric, all candle-lit with stone archways and sumptuous décor in rich purples with touches of wood, while the food is exquisite. The menu is an explosive mix of French, North African and traditional Scottish cuisine cooked to perfection. Yum!

 

Also worth a try are The Dogs (for hearty gastropub fare), Always Sunday (for heavenly cakes) and The Ship in Leith (for seafood lovers).

 

Find out more

The Knight Residence five-star serviced apartments cost from £155 per night for a one-bedroom, £180 for a two-bedroom or £265 for a three-bedroom apartment. To celebrate its tenth birthday The Knight Residence is offering one-bedroom apartments for just £99 per night for midweek breaks until December 2009.

To book please contact The Knight Residence on 0131 622 8120, 12 Lauriston Street, Edinburgh, EH3 9DJ, email info@theknightresidence.co.uk or visit www.theknightresidence.co.uk.

 

How to get there

Fiona travelled from London to Edinburgh by rail with National Express East Coast. Advance returns, booked online, start from £33 Standard Class or £106 First Class: book at www.nationalexpresseastcoast.com, call 0845 722 5225 or visit any staffed station. Trains run from London's Kings Cross station direct to Edinburgh's Waverley station, which is slap bang in the middle of the city, between the forbidding Old Town and the sophisticated New Town.

 

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