Escape the 21st century in a Welsh yurt

All About You online 04.09.2008

Getting back to basics? Adrienne Wyper samples the simple life in a luxuriously appointed yurt

exterior of the EcoRetreats yurt Wondering what a yurt is? It's a circular tent-like structure used by nomads in central Asia, and is designed to be dismantled and re-erected in a few hours. The one at EcoRetreats, where there are tepees too, is a Mongolian design, with a wood lattice forming the walls and curved wooden roof supports.

It was love at first sight for me and my partner, Bob. Our smiles kept getting broader and broader as we were led to the yurt by Michael, one of the EcoRetreats owners (who also carried our luggage as a very welcome welcoming gesture). It's set on a high bank overlooking a tree-bordered river at the bottom of a sloping field. Outside the locking wooden front door there's a patio area of slate chips incorporating an outdoor ‘fire place': a sheltering circle of piled-up slate.

interior of yurt at EcoRetreats Inside, the yurt is light and noticeably warmer than outside. At 18ft across, it's not cramped like a tent. There's a comfortable bed piled with sheepskins and a chiminea-style open fire. Dotted around are lots and lots of lanterns and tealights. In the kitchen area there's a camping gas stove, plus coolbox and all the crockery, cutlery and utensils you're likely to need.

And the best thing?

The sense of blissful relaxation that slowly overtakes you as you unpack, put the kettle on and breathe deeply of the cool, fresh air, listen to the rushing of the river and the singing of the birds, look around and realise that there's no one else there.

All the intrusions of ‘normal' everyday life fade away: no mobile reception (until you climb out of the valley); no electricity, so no TV, no computer, no lights... We came prepared with our MP3 player speakers, so our first dinner, eaten outside by the fire, and washed down by the welcome bottle of elderberry wine, was accompanied by soothing sounds.

As it got darker, we moved inside and cosied up on the sheepskins in front of the stove, illuminated by candlelight.

Next day, our reiki practitioner arrived to give us our complimentary session. And, wow, if I thought I was relaxed when she arrived, I was drifting gently among the clouds when she had finished with me. I lay fully clothed on the bed and she placed her hands on my shoulders, stomach, legs and head - taking about 40 minutes. I've had reiki before but never with such a strong change in how I feel. (Reiki is a system of natural healing, originating in Japan. The practitioner is a channel to pass healing energy to the recipient, where it is most needed.)

I drifted outside and sat, grinning like an idiot, until Bob was done. It was his first reiki experience but didn't affect him anywhere near as deeply as mine. After I had floated back to earth some hours later we went for a walk up to the top of the valley among the oak trees, foxgloves and sightings of a couple of buzzards. Apart from a couple of walkers in the distance and an abandoned farmhouse, we saw no signs of humans.

Also included in the trip is a sunset meditation. It was quite strange to enter the big tepee (which also houses emergency mobile phone access, food and medical supplies) to join the others staying in the tepees at EcoRetreats. It was a guided meditation featuring images of waterfalls of light and a Tibetan singing bowl, which reverberates at length like a bell when struck. Again, I found myself somewhere far away and grinning.

Over to the outside bathroom

By now, we were used to visiting the compost toilet. The wooden door has a heart-shaped hole - very traditional as outside toilets go - and you sit on a polystyrene seat. Human anatomy ensures that urine falls into the front container and solids into the back one. Men have to sit down too. Wipe as normal, then scoop a handful of bran from the container and chuck it down the hole. No, it doesn't smell.

The weather wasn't conducive to using the solar-powered shower: a big black bag that you fill with water to absorb the sun's heat so we boiled the kettle and poured that in. Very refreshing.

As a finale to the trip, tickets are provided for the Centre for Alternative Technology - a fantastic centre dedicated to educating people about eco-friendly ways of living. Charming and child-friendly exhibits start with the water-powered funicular railway at the entrance. It's been going since 1975 and, as well as being a great destination for a day out, offers a free info service by email, phone or letter to answer your questions on environmentally friendly living.

We were sad to leave the yurt behind - a sentiment echoed by many comments in its visitors' book - but the inner peace we felt there will stay with us for a long time.

Further information

A two-night stay for two people in the Eco Retreats yurt costs £315 midweek off-peak; £349 at weekends. Prices include a reiki session each, twilight meditation, tickets for the Centre for Alternative Technology and organic welcome hamper. The site is open until November 10 2008 and reopens on April 10, 2009.

For more information on holidays in Wales see the Visit Wales website or call 0870 830 0306.

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