Walk this way... isle of Mull, Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Coast online 15.04.2008

The circular walk around the silver sands of Calgary Bay on Mull is dotted with stirring ruins and provides an opportunity to peek into Doctor Who’s past. By Alex Reece; Claire Norton

basalt cliffs, Isle of MullThe route: Start from the car park at Calgary Bay (signposted on the B8073), taking the path through the gate, along the north shore. Follow the track as far as Calgary Pier. The walk then continues along the rocky foreshore and a narrow cliff path. Reward yourself with a packed lunch at Rubha nan Oirean, where there's a stone-walled fort that overlooks the mouth of the bay, before turning back, making the journey along the smoother raised beach before rejoining the footpath home.

 

Why go? Calgary Bay on Mull, after which Calgary in Alberta is named, is one of the Inner Hebridean island's must-sees, with its silver sands and craggy headlands - home to a rich variety of birdlife and the haunting ruins of stone forts and abandoned villages.

How long will it take? This circular walk is five miles long, but, because there is so much to see, it takes around three-and-a-half hours to complete. For a guided walk along this and other routes on the island, contact Mull Magic on 01688 301245 or visit www.mullmagic.com.

Stamina required? The going is moderately challenging in places, especially along the rocky foreshore and vertiginous
cliff path. Stout walking boots are essential.

Refuelling options Head to nearby Dervaig for a pint at The Bellachroy, the oldest inn on Mull (est. 1608), offering home-cooked food and accommodation (01688 400314, www.thebellachroy.co.uk).

What else is there to see? As you set out, be sure to make a 45-minute diversion uphill, just past the small fort of Calgary Dun, to see the mournfully beautiful township of Inivea. Deserted as a result of the Highland Clearances, it was once home to the tenant-farmer ancestors of Doctor Who star David Tennant. The ruins of around 24 buildings still remain on the site. Meanwhile, the walk along the north shore offers vantage points to observe wildlife in the bay, such as otters and seals. And while at Rubha nan Oirean, keep your eyes peeled
for gannets, cormorants and oystercatchers.

Wildlife highlights More charismatic species, such as golden eagles, feral goats and red deer, can be spotted inland. And offshore, you may catch sight of dolphins, whales and porpoises. Visit the Hebridean
Whale and Dolphin Trust's Marine Discovery Centre in Tobermory, the main village on Mull (01688 302620, www.whaledolphintrust.co.uk).

And for kids? Fans of the BBC series Balamory will enjoy exploring the coloured houses of Tobermory, where the show is set.

Getting there Calgary is a 30-minute trip by bus or car from Tobermory. Ferries to Mull from the mainland depart from Oban, Lochaline and Kilchoan. For ferry information, call CalMac on 01631 566688 or visit www.calmac.co.uk.

Where to stay Calgary Hotel, Calgary (01688 400256, www.calgary.co.uk), recently converted from farm steadings, is just up the road from the bay. From £37 per person B&B.

Mull TIC 01680 812377, www.holidaymull.co.uk and www.visitscotland.com.

OS maps Explorer Active Map 374: Isle of Mull North & Tobermory; Landranger Map 47: Tobermory & North Mull. Click here for the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map Service

 

Coast


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