Walk the Parrett Trail, Somerset Levels

The River Parrett starts as a trickle and ends as a flood, and the essence of that transition lies in a day’s easy walking

 

Begin near Martock, at the Parrett Works (a former iron foundry), where the South Petherton road crosses the river. The path is waymarked with little yellow arrows and described in detail in the River Parrett Trail Guide (www.riverparrett-trail.org.uk), an excellent all-round introduction to the Levels. It's an hour's walk across fields to Kingsbury Episcopi: keep an eye out by bridges and stiles for specially commissioned artworks that explore landscape themes using local materials.

Kingsbury Episcopi is a quiet, handsome place with an excellent pub, The Wyndham Arms, favoured by walkers, and a large church, although that didn't mean, said the man in the post office, that the Episcopalians were particularly God-fearing. "We're all trying hard to get bad reputations - it's far more interesting."

Beyond Kingsbury you enter the Levels. The land spreads and the river quickly turns lugubrious. Thorney Mill, mentioned in the Domesday Book, was still working until 1966, and is now the home and studio of sculptor Evelyn Body.

The route from here to Muchelney lies along a raised towpath, above fields subject to flooding, with coots, herons, buzzards and kestrels warning each other of your approach. Stop to admire the ruins of Muchelney Abbey and for tea and cake in the Stable Tearoom (open April to October).

The trail threads through the ancient market town of Langport and returns to the river under the railway bridge. From Oath Lock onwards the river is still tidal, despite being 20-odd miles from the sea. In the distance ahead you should be able to pick out the silhouette of Burrow Mump, rising above the Levels.

Stathe Bridge is marked with curious tall cones sculpted in 1997 by artist Clare Wilks out of living willow, and already well on their way to becoming trees. This is your journey's end. If you haven't parked a car here, then call a cab from the phone box (Joy's Taxi 01458 252098). If you feel in need of reward and refreshment, the Rose & Crown at East Lyng, three miles away, serves good food, three real ales and has a well-kept garden.

 

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