The ultimate coastal walks: Betjeman’s footsteps

Padstow and Polzeath, Cornwall: This walk takes you from neat little Padstow, around the wild cliffs of Stepper Point, then over the Camel Estuary by ferry to Rock. The coast path runs by St Enodoc’s, the ‘Church in the Sands’, where the late Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman lies buried (it was where he spent his childhood holidays), and on along Daymer Bay to the superb surfing waves at Polzeath.

The route: From Padstow harbour, take the coast path north round Stepper Point and back via Tregirls. Board the ferry to Rock, then follow the Coast Path north via St Enodoc’s Church and Daymer Bay to Polzeath; return inland to Rock via Silla Mill and Trewiston and then take the ferry back to Padstow.

Don’t miss: Padstow’s pretty harbour and St Enodoc’s Church with its crooked 13th-century spire; Daymer Bay, loved by Betjeman, and Polzeath, popular with surfers.

Stamina required? A little up and down, but it’s a good coast path (South West Coast Path National Trail) and there are well-marked field paths.

How long will it take? Five hours for the 11½ miles; or about three hours if you omit Stepper Point circuit.

Refuelling options: The Oystercatcher, Polzeath (01208 862371). With outdoor seating.

Getting there: Rail to Bodmin Parkway; bus 555 to Padstow; A39, A389 to Padstow.

Sleeping: The Tregea Hotel, Padstow (0871 871 2686, www.tregea.co.uk, above), is a superbly kept hideaway. £120 double B&B (minimum of two nights).

Map: OS maps Landranger 200; Explorer 106. Click here for the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map service.

More info: Padstow Tourist Information Centre (01841 533449, www.padstowlive.com).

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