York and Harrogate: genteel cities of romance

 

York is a romantic city. I know this because there are people embracing all over the platform at York station. Tearful farewells and passionate clinches, there's a lot of kissing going on. You don't get this in London. Stop there for a hug and the throngs hot on your heels will barge into you with muttered - and sometimes not so muttered - curses.

 

York Minster

As well as being romantic, York also boasts one of the finest cathedrals in Britain. Dating from 627, York Minster is the largest medieval gothic cathedral in northern Europe; originally Roman Catholic, it became Church of England after the split from Rome in 1534. Lots to see there - take a guided tour or pick up a floor plan and history and tour it yourself. Be impressed by the stunning stone carvings in the Chapter House; stop and admire the Great East window, the world's largest area of mediaeval stained glass.

 

The Shambles

The Minster is just a stone's throw from the winding warren of cobbled streets called The Shambles, full of quirky individual shops and tearooms. You can tell a lot about the pace of a town by the number of inviting places to sit and watch the world go by, and York screams ‘chilled‘. My friend Maire and I sit in the Earl Grey tearooms, which manage to be lively, bustling and calm all at the same time, and eat the best scones I've ever tasted.

 

Where to stay: Hotel du Vin

Stay central when visiting York; the city's Hotel du Vin is an easy walk from the city centre. The Grade II listed building stands like a welcoming beacon in ‘The Mount'. Dating back to the 1800s it was once an orphanage and preserves original features such as the grand Georgian staircase.

 

Inside it's cosy and full of nooks and crannies, a warren-like structure with long rambling hallways - which makes the contemporary design of the bedroom all the more surprising. With a huge sleigh bed - standard in all rooms - there's a lounge area with comfy sofas, huge plasma TV and modern bathroom with freestanding bath.

 

We eat that night in the bistro - a signature feature of the Hotel du Vin chain - with quirky horsey murals in alcoves that were stables back in the 19th century. The food is great, starters of hot smoked salmon and pan-fried scallops, followed by feta, thyme and garlic soufflé and the house special burger served with gorgeous hand-cut chips and homemade ketchup.

 

Harrogate: Hotel du Vin

The next day we decamp to the Hotel du Vin in Harrogate, listed second in the Sunday Times' Best UK Hotels list. Just half an hour from York on the train, it's another great location, a converted terrace of eight Georgian-styled houses overlooking The Stray, 200 acres of parkland close to the town centre, five minutes' walk from the station.

 

The hotels are hugely different in style and each has great character - one of the reasons I like the Hotel du Vin chain so much. This building is big and open with a pleasant courtyard that is sheltered enough, even in winter, for us to enjoy a late-afternoon glass of wine.

 

Our room, again, is modern and well-equipped, luxury touches like Egyptian bed linen, CD and DVD players and fluffy bathrobes come as standard. We have a perfect view of the park from our huge windows and - the best bit - also from the bath, freestanding in the bathroom window!

 

Exploring Harrogate

Harrogate is a genteel town which became famous in the 1800s for its sulpher springs, attracting large numbers of well-heeled visitors to ‘take the waters'. It's a great place for a potter and for the rest of our time there we do little else. Strolling across The Stray and down an impressive residential street of large stone buildings, with parapets and bay windows, we come to Valley Gardens and Pinewoods, lovely landscaped gardens arranged around the centrepiece of the Sun Pavilion. Perfect for a Sunday morning stroll, we end up at the famous Betty's tearooms on the edge of the park. Queuing for half an hour just makes getting in even more of an occasion and we treat ourselves to champagne with our tea and cake, the perfect well-heeled end to what has been an all-round genteel weekend.

 

York: why you should

York Minster: not all cathedrals are Minsters, not all Minsters are cathedrals but York Minster is both and is worth visiting for alone (a ‘mynster' is the Anglo-Saxon name for a missionary church, a church built as a new centre for Christian worship)

Cosy nooks at Hotel du Vin: chill out in the Champagne Bar or pop out to the Cigar Shack, an open-sided lodge with leather sofas, underfloor heating and a plasma fire!

Shopping in the Shambles

 

Harrogate: why you should

Betty's tearooms: world-famous location for a cuppa on the edge of The Stray; 1 Parliament St, www.bettys.co.uk

Turkish baths: Turkish baths in a spa town, it doesn't get much better. Phone 01423 556746 for information or visit the website here

Genteel city streets, perfect for strolling

 

Staying at the Hotel du Vin

Hotel du Vin York; 01904 557350, www.hotelduvin.com; rooms from £150 inc VAT

Hotel du Vin Harrogate; 01423 856800, www.hotelduvin.com; rooms from £130 inc VAT

 

‘Three Tenners' offer at Hotel du Vin and Malmaison hotels

Enjoy a meal out without breaking the bank - for £10, one tenner, you can have two tasty courses per person, £20 for two people. Or push the boat out to three tenners and enjoy a two course meal with wine for two people, just £30. For more information visit the websites at www.hotelduvin.com and www.malmaison.com

 

Getting there

I travelled from London to York by rail with East Coast trains and from York to Harrogate with Northern Rail.

East Coast advance returns, booked online, start from £26 standard class or £94 first class: book on www.eastcoast.co.uk, call 0845 722 5225 or visit any staffed station. 

Visit the Northern Rail website at www.northernrail.org to find tools to help plan your journey and get ideas for great days out. 

 

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