Chilling out in Cambodia

Although relatively small, Siem Reap is a bustling town which relies heavily on the tourist trade for business. Coming from the madness of Bangkok via a six hour train journey, (those short on time can opt for a one hour flight) I was instantly smitten by the relaxed way of life. While Cambodia is definitely one of the poorest countries I've visited in South East Asia, it's also one of  the cheapest and friendliest. The larger hotel chains have stayed away from Siem Reap, but for the discerning traveller there's still a wide range of luxury spa hotels lining the town's main road.

Indochine spa at the Hotel de la Paix

The design of the Hotel de la Paix fuses traditional Khmer architecture with art deco influences. With its white, angular frontage, the art deco bit is certainly evident - strangely enough, it actually reminded me of another art deco creation, Surbiton train station, but perhaps that's just me! Inside, the Cambodian influence is just as strong, with lots of dark wood and traditional artwork giving the place a cosy, intimate atmosphere.

The hotel's Indochine spa, located outside on the first floor, sits at the foot of a generously sized pool which features an infinity-style drop off at one end and built-in jacuzzi beds at the other. The pool is surrounded by large, cushion-strewn day beds perfect for a spot of people watching - if you can find an empty space. I have a sneaking suspicion most of the cocktail-sipping Blackberry-pushing fashionista types occupying them during our visit had barely risen to take a dip!

The spa itself is spread over two floors with six treatment rooms - three designed for couples - and a Thai massage suite. In addition to the wide range of scrubs, facials and treatment packages for men and women, the spa also offers ‘seeing hands' massages, which are carried out by local blind women trained at the spa. These massages are some of the best - not to mention cheapest - and 20% of the price goes to Krousar Thmey, a local NGO for the blind. (Despite the worthy cause and set price, horror stories about rich western tourists haggling for ridiculously trivial discounts on these massages are depressingly common.)

The experience

After hiking up, down and around more temples that I cared to remember, the Banteay Srie package seemed like the perfect solution. Comprising a body scrub, full body wrap and massage, the treatment is a favourite with aching, sunburnt tourists. After a glass of chilled lemongrass tea I was shown to a luxurious treatment room, where I changed into the robe and paper pants provided and hopped up onto the bed. The therapist started by applying the ‘aromatic glow' - a deliciously fragrant scrub which used lavender and chamomile to soothe and nourish. After a quick rinse, the wrap was slathered on, and I was left to marinate as my skin drank in the combination of Aloe Vera, lavender and chamomile. After half an hour and another quick rinse, I was then treated to the Aspara massage, which, according to my therapist, used a combination of traditional and modern massage techniques designed to ease aching muscles and create a sense of inner calm. The massage was, by British standards at least, surprisingly firm - at one point she squatted above me on the bed - but the extra pressure was exactly what I needed and I could feel the tension draining from my body. As for the sense of inner calm, I certainly left the treatment room feeling rejuvenated and more relaxed than I'd felt in a long time.

While I loved the grandeur of this spa, it was the little touches that impressed me the most, from the flower-filled bowl placed under the hole in the treatment bed - a simple but effective alternative to staring at a tiled floor for several hours - to the impressive range of massage oils, all made using local ingredients. Having someone squat above you may feel slightly strange at first but the firm pummelling felt wonderful on my tired body and was exactly what my aching muscles needed. All in all, a luxurious spa which offers a stunning range of top notch treatments in a truly authentic setting.

Accommodation

Rooms at the Hotel de la Paix start at £160 per room per night and include complementary use of in-room iPods and WiFi, plus a complementary cocktail and fruit selection on arrival. For more information visit the hotel's website at www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com or email info@hoteldelapaixangkor.com

Getting there

The easiest way is to fly from London to Bangkok then get the one hour flight to Siem Reap. Qatar Airways fly from London Gatwick to Bangkok four times a day. Fares start at £522 for an economy return including taxes. Bangkok Air offer five flights a day from Bangkok to Siem Reap starting at £130.

If time isn't an issue, the scenic six hour train journey from Bangkok to the town of Aranyaprathet costs under two pounds. From there, a taxi will take you the short journey to the Cambodian border for around five pounds. From there, it's a two hour taxi journey to Siem Reap - this part of the journey should cost no more than £25 or considerably less by bus.

Visas are required for entry to Cambodia and can be obtained when crossing the Thai/Cambodian border or at Siem Reap airport.

Read last month's spa review here - an idyllic country retreat and a chance to improve your life!

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