Slow the ageing process: make skin glow

two women drinking water

Get more water

 

Hydration is crucial to healthy skin, but according to the experts we needn't worry if we fall short of drinking the recommended two-and-a-half litres of water a day. ‘It's hard to get through that much and, if you do, it tends to flush through you and cause bloating,' says dermatologist Dr Howard Murad. ‘I tested the cell hydration levels of women who normally drink eight glasses of water a day and asked them to drink only three glasses - but to increase their intake of raw fruit and vegetables,' he explains. ‘The results showed their hydration levels were higher after the test - plus they had more energy and were less bloated.'

 

Why is raw important?

 

Because, says Dr Murad, the antioxidants and water that fruit and vegetables contain are often lost through cooking. ‘Water consumed in food form is slower to dissolve, too, which means your body has a chance to absorb the moisture,' he explains.

 

And there's more good news... ‘Juices, tea and other non-alcoholic drinks should count towards the two litres,' says nutritionist Yinka Thomas. ‘Although tea has a diuretic effect, it's incidental, so the liquid still counts. If you consume two litres of water on top of all the other drinks you have during the day, you may end up having more than you need to keep you hydrated.'

 

Try a little buff and polish

 

Dermatologists agree exfoliating is essential to maintaining youthful skin. ‘If you add just one thing to your beauty routine, exfoliation should be it,' says Hollywood dermatologist Dr Obagi. ‘When dead cells accumulate, they slow down cell turnover and prevent your anti-ageing cream sinking in and doing its work.'

 

From our 30s onwards, surface cell turnover slows dramatically, with the life of a cell lasting 35 days compared with about 28 days in our teens. It may not sound much, but it's the difference between radiant skin and a dull, sluggish complexion caused by the build-up of dead cells.

 

‘Exfoliation removes those cells and sends a message to your body to create replacements, encouraging fresh, young cells to come to the surface. It even boosts collagen production,' says Dr Murad.

 

So what's the best method of exfoliation?

 

There are two types - mechanical and chemical - the former being the physical removal of dead cells using scrubs or a muslin cloth with cleanser. Then there are the chemical exfoliators that use alpha hydroxyl acids, such as glycolic (from sugar), lactic (from dairy products), malic (from apples), citric (from citrus fruit) or enzymes, often from a fruit source such as papaya. 

 

If your skin is sensitive, it might be wise to use a fine scrub or a cloth and cleanser such as Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish, £12.25 (01983 813913; www.lizearle.co.uk), which comes with two muslin cloths. But if your skin is prone to broken capillaries or rosacea and reddens easily to the touch, a cream formulation such as Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel, £26, may feel gentler (01278 727830; www.timetospa.co.uk).

 

Skin with a tendency to develop blocked pores benefits from thorough exfoliation - try using a combination of mechanical and chemical ingredients. Try Dermalogica Multivitamin Thermafoliant, £35 (0800 591818), which creates heat to activate the exfoliating action of salicylic acid and super-fine micro granules to leave skin smoother than smooth. The effect is so addictive you'll want to use it every day - which won't harm your skin, but once or twice a week should be enough.

 

Give your face a workout

 

‘Practise facial exercises regularly to tone up the muscles and invigorate your look,' says facial acupuncturist John Tsgaris, a doctor of Chinese medicine. ‘With age, our skin loses volume and plumpness. Exercising can keep you looking youthful without risk - unlike Botox and fillers.'

 

One of the best facial workouts is the one devised by Eva Fraser, the original guru of the technique. ‘We exercise our bodies to stay young, so why not our faces?' she says, promising that facial exercising improves circulation and the radiance of your complexion, as well as the tone. Her book on the subject has sold 20 million copies worldwide, and it's easy to see why... Now 80 years old, she still boasts a firm jaw and a virtually line-free face. Not surprising, then, that Eva has a clutch of celebrity devotees, including actress Julie Christie and singer Kate Bush. 

 

If you want to try Eva's facial workout for yourself, you can buy her book, Eva Fraser's Facial Workout (£7.99), or her DVD, Facial Fitness Made Easy (£19.99), by calling 020 7937 6616. Alternatively, for a less purse-friendly £165, you can book a one-to-one workshop (1hr 30mins) at her studio in west London. Expect to learn a series of specific facial exercise movements, some of which look like gurning or grimacing. And you need to practise them for 10 minutes a day, four days a week, to tone and firm muscles.

 

To get the lowdown on facial exercises for free - see our how-to guide here!

 

Don't stress your skin

 

Scientists are discovering more and more evidence of how psychological stress affects the body. ‘Exposure to noise and light - the basic sensory assaults of living in a city - increases cortisol and adrenalin, which leads to a poor immune response and loss of collagen in the skin,' says Dr Tom Mamone, head of research and development at Clinique.

 

‘It's hard to create stress in a lab, so we studied teenagers before exams. We discovered they suffered breakouts as a result of their skin barrier not functioning well enough to keep down bacteria levels.' Following this research, Clinique developed Superdefense Age Defense Moisturizer SPF25, £26 for 30ml (0870 034 2566). It contains red micro-algae to counteract the immune-compromising effects of stress and sun exposure, along with sun protection.

 

‘Psychological stress has the same effects as sun exposure, increasing inflammation and decreasing the immune function of the skin,' explains Dr Mamone. Although it's hard to avoid stress, you can help to combat it by exercising and meditating. But managing external environmental stress is far simpler. Dermatologist Dr Tony Bewley advises: ‘Make sure you wear a protective sunblock every day, such as a moisturiser with factor 20 in summer and at least factor 10 in winter. You need less protection in the colder months, and wearing more than you need could load your skin with unnecessary chemicals. It's all a matter of balance.'

 

Supplement your diet

 

‘When you tell someone they have great skin, what you're really saying is they have great collagen - because that's what makes great skin. Collagen-boosting vitamin C, silica and collagen from a marine source like fish are crucial for plump skin,' says nutritionist Yinka Thomas. Her No Nips No Tucks Hair, Skin, Nails Formula, £18 for 90 (2-3 a day; www.nonipsnotucks.com), contains all these ingredients. ‘It's essential to take antioxidants to protect the skin cells, too, otherwise damaged cells won't replicate as well,' she adds.

 

The most powerful antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E, coenzyme Q10 and alpha lipoic acid, which is super-effective at protecting cells from free radicals and from the sugar that breaks down collagen and elastin fibres. To protect your skin from the inside out, try Solgar Nutri-Nano Co Enzyme Q10 with Alpha Lipoic Acid, £36.89 for 60 tablets (www.solgar.co.uk). You'll need just one a day.

 

Low-fat diets can age the skin because it needs good fats to keep it plump and healthy. Moisturise from within by consuming omega fatty acids, found in olive oil and oily fish such as mackerel, salmon and tuna. These good fats are essential for cell renewal, as well as providing anti-inflammatory benefits.

 

Intelligent Nutrients, a new holistic brand created by Aveda founder Horst Rechelbecher, has a fantastic Intelligent Nutrients Intellimune Oil, £42 (020 8740 2085), which can be taken internally or used topically as a moisturising treatment - the GH beauty team has found it great for helping to heal scars. It contains omega 6 and nine fatty acids, as well as antioxidant seeds from organic black cumin, grapes, red raspberry, pumpkin and cranberry. Rechelbecher claims the antioxidant power in two teaspoons is the equivalent to the goodness in 10lb of seeds.

 

5 top tips for better skin

 

1. Get good quality sleep... And it's not just the quantity. Eight hours of light sleep won't refresh you as well as eight hours of good slumber because the majority of cell renewal takes place during deep sleep. Block out light, and use ear plugs if you share a bed with a snorer.

 

2. Wear sunglasses on bright days, even in winter... preferably large Jackie-O-style ones. These act as a physical barrier against UV light, as well as helping to prevent the crow's feet and frown lines caused by squinting.

 

3. Change your sleep position. New York dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross recommends sleeping on your back to avoid creasing your face on the pillow and prevent long-term wrinkles. All very well, but what if you sleep better on your side or front? Swap cotton pillowcases for silk, he says.

 

4. Never go to bed without cleansing. Sleeping in your make-up blocks pores and cultivates bacteria and free radicals, compromising the crucial turnover of cells during sleep.

 

5. Prevent moisture loss. Dermatologists agree that keeping your skin well hydrated from the outside is as important as drinking plenty of fluids. Dermatologist Dr Tony Bewley advises: ‘Use a moisturiser thinly and frequently, applying it in the direction of the fine hair on your face to prevent blocked follicle.

 

What are the 10 best face creams to make your skin glow? See recommendations from the experts  

 

 


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