Thinning hair: how to make the most of it

Scientists at Pantene have identified a vicious cycle of damage we inflict on our hair in the pursuit of volume. This cycle often starts with the avoidance of conditioner, as women believe it will make their hair heavy and more difficult to volumise. Then hair gets stressed and damaged through the use of styling methods to add fullness and lift, such as backcombing and blow drying with brushes.

Over time, the lack of protective products and regular styling leave hair thinner and weaker than before. As Dr Frauke Neuser, P&G scientific communications manager for hair care in Europe, explains: ‘Women who use lots of styling products to create volume need a shampoo that ensures any build-up of these products is gently but thoroughly removed. It's then imperative that they use conditioner after every shampoo to protect cuticle layers and prevent further damage from weakening hair. Modern formulas are lightweight and don't weigh hair down.'

Good products to try

Choose a shampoo and conditioner that's specially designed for boosting volume, such as Pantene Pro-V Volume and Body, £1.89 each, or Tresemmé 24 Hour Body, £5.28. If your budget extends further, try Schwarzkopf BC Therapy Volume Boost shampoo, £8.65, and conditioner, £9.85 (to find your nearest salon stockist call 01296 314000 or visit www.schwarzkopf.com), or Kerastase Lait Volume Intense, £17.20, a lightweight conditioner that adds volume and detangles without weighing hair down (for stockists call 0800 316 4400 or visit www.kerastase.co.uk).

As well as using the right hair care to increase volume, invest in one or two styling products. A volumising mousse is one of the best things to provide root lift and thereby overall volume, according to Dr Neuser. ‘It works like miniature support tights for each hair fibre, helping to reinforce the hair structure at the roots and defy gravity.'

I like Pantene Pro-V Volume and Body Seriously Body Boosting Mousse, £2.99, and John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Mousse, £5.49. Also good is Redken Rootful 06 Root Lifting Spray, £11.95 (for stockists call 0800 085 4956 or visit www.redken.com). Apply to damp hair at the roots and then air-dry or blow-dry for lasting volume without stiffness or stickiness.

Hair loss and chemotherapy

Despite most oncologists warning that hair will fall out with cancer treatment, trichologist Philip Kingsley says the loss is often less than expected. His wife, Joan, who was diagnosed with breast cancer in June 2006, only lost some hair with chemo.

'Because the drugs that kill cancer cells also kill cells at the base of the hair follicles, the "cold cap" is often used,' he explains. ‘This is an icy cap worn tightly over the scalp. It helps to reduce the amount of the drug reaching the hair follicles by constricting tiny capillaries that feed the hair papillae (growth point). It's very uncomfortable and about 20 minutes is just endurable. If you do lose your hair it will re-grow - by the tenth week after therapy will be growing about 2-3cm (½in) a month. It may look a little different, such as being wavy instead of straight.'

Joan Kingsley found radiotherapy a challenge, as skin being radiated is left highly sensitive. Although fragrance and colour-free soaps are available, shampoo and conditioner run over your body in the shower, too. So she asked her husband to create a gentle formulation for women undergoing cancer treatment or anyone with sensitive skin.

He obliged with Philip Kingsley No Scent No Colour Shampoo, £5.25, and Conditioner, £6.50 (with 25p donated to Look Good... Feel Better, the charity focused on boosting the self-confidence of women undergoing cancer treatment).

See our guide to some of the most common causes and treatments for hair thinning

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