The fish freshness test

A four-point guide that works everytime

Knowing more about fish really can make it more delicious. Read on for our vital tips and scroll down for the fantastic recipes below...

Shop wisely
The health benefits of oily fish have been widely reported – packed with essential fatty acids, it can help prevent heart disease, research shows. But fish has had more than its fair share of bad press, too. Scares about fish-farming practices, toxicity levels and news of depleted stocks have tarnished an otherwise shiny image. The result? Shoppers are confused and don’t know what to buy.

There is good news, though. Although stocks of old favourites such as cod are depleted, buying from sustainable sources and choosing less vulnerable species, such as pollock and coley, is increasingly possible. Look for the Marine Stewardship Council’s (MSC) blue fish logo, which is awarded only to environmentally responsible fisheries. The method of fishing and the area of the world in which the fish is caught make a big difference, so it’s worth reading labels carefully: as a rule, line- and pole-caught fish are a better choice than fish caught by trawling. Visit Fish Online for a comprehensive list of the species it’s okay to eat – and those you should avoid.

The four-point freshness test
When buying fish, the number one consideration is its freshness. Look for…
* A slight smell of the sea but no fishy aroma.
* An even covering of scales with no bare patches and no damage to the fins.
* Bright, clear eyes and bright red gills – dull, milky eyes indicate a fish that has been out of the water too long.
* Flesh that feels firm, rather than soft and spongy. Individual fish fillets should be moist, shiny and plump.

GH recommends...
Before you get out your purse, ask where the fish comes from and check it’s from abundant stocks. A good fishmonger will be able to answer all your questions and be happy to reassure you. Support your local fishmonger, if you have one, or buy from one of these mail-order companies and have the fish delivered to your door:

FishWorks (0800 052 3717; fishworks.co.uk) is a chain of fish restaurants and shops that also does mail order. The website has a useful list of what fish is in season.

The Fish Society (0800 279 3474; thefishsociety.co.uk) offers a huge range of top-quality fish.

Fowey Fish (01726 832422; foweyfish.com) is a family-run fishmonger in Cornwall, which supplies fish all over the country.

Wing of St Mawes (01726 861666; wingofstmawes.co.uk), also in Cornwall, sells wholesale to the catering industry, but it’s happy to take individual orders, too.

Rock-a-Nore Fisheries (01424 445425) is the only fishmonger in the UK with MSC certification - (look for the logo - see above)

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