Dinner in Marbella anyone?

Is there really a tasting menu that's worth flying to Spain for? Oh yes, says Good Housekeeping's cookery writer, Meike Ford

I have always been in love with clever food and it was the promise of this that got me on a plane at the crack of dawn the other week. Marbella is not a region you might associate with Michelin-starred food but if the La Veranda restaurant at the Hotel Villa Padiema is something to go by that might just be about to change. Martín Berasategui, a 3-star Michelin chef, has brought his high standards to La Veranda and people are flocking from England to try his tasting menu - myself included.

 

Now before I get onto the food, let's set the scene. This gargantuan sunset-coloured hotel certainly cuts a dashing figure against the deep blue Mediterranean sky but its imposing grandeur is softened by hugely helpful staff and wonderful little personal touches everywhere: shocking pink cushions accenting the cool marble seats, rose petals adorning antique wells and very evocative art hanging on the walls. The views aren't bad either, with two perfectly manicured golf courses surrounding the hotel. Oh and did I mention the Thermal Spa? Exquisite calmn, white fluffy robes, themed mosaic-clad rooms (all with accompanying temperatures and scents), salt scrubs and gentle music. Heaven!

 

Immediately upon entering the much-talked of restaurant, La Veranda, we were greeted with a bubbling glass of cava and told that each course would be accompanied by a different Spanish wine and within minutes we had our first course. It was a fresh wild mushroom soup - simple and uncomplicated, leaving the natural earthiness of the mushrooms to dominate. The accompanying crusty home-made bread was perfect.

 

The next course was undoubtedly the best of the lot: a glass-thin slice of salt cod floating on a froth of parmesan and smoked bacon. That would have been tasty enough but the incredible coffee and hazelnut powder served with it brought all of the flavours together beautifully. I would never have thought that coffee and hazelnut have such a strong love for fish, but they do and I am left questioning why I ever doubted it. Brilliant flavour pairings by Berasategui.

 

A delicate garlic and pine nut soup followed, with two tiny squares of marinated mackerel nestled inside. This was delicate but somehow whacked you round the face with its fullness of flavour. With such heavy weight flavours being showcased it was only right that pigeon was served next. This was gorgeosly pink and was presented on slate with a wild wheat risotto (very in vogue) and a lonely sweet marinated cherry. Again, very clever flavours although I could have done with a little extra sweetness here (I do have a dangerously sweet tooth).

 

I was on the edge of my seat waiting for what the next course: chocolate soufflé, caramel and cinnamon ice cream and cocao juice. It didn't disappoint. My mouth is still watering at the thought of the velvety sweet ice cream and pungent bitterness of the cocoa juice, married on a silver spoon and plunged into the hot chocolaty depths of the soufflé. Masterful.

After dessert, all that remained was for me to do was to grab a quick nightcap in the charming English-style bar and then saunter to my palatial room.

 

My expectations were met and the experience was definitely worth getting up early for that day. Verdict: I think La Veranda will soon be wearing a shiny and much-deserved Michelin star.

 

* Contact Monarch airlines for cheap flights to Malaga (La Veranda offers private transfers from the airport).

 

* Contact La Veranda at www.ritzcarlton.com

 

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