Fine dining at its finest
A top restaurant that is SO worth a visit
By Carol Muskoron
The problem with fine dining is that it often leaves you wowed by the chef but somewhat dissatisfied. You are aware that you have had good, clever food but it didn't really do it for you. Know the feeling? If so, do not be afraid to try the fine and fabulous dining to be had at Colette's in The Grove, a luxurious country house hotel in Hertfordshire. It is fine food, prepared by the highly esteemed chef Chris Warwick who has worked with Gordon Ramsay and who won the prestigious Acorn Award in 2007, awarded to promising chefs under 30.
The impressive blurb on the front of Colette's menu reads as follows...
‘You're in illustrious company. Previous diners at The Grove include Edward VII, Queen Victoria and Lord Palmerston. Dressing for dinner was de rigueur, and woe betide the servant who brought in the silver seconds too late. Times change, and today our service is less-strait-laced. Our elegance is more egalitarian. Our luxury is more laid-back. We've even (shame on us) relaced the rigid dress code of the past. Look around. Not a tiara in sight.'
It sets the tone for a meal of elegance and fun, which Colette's pulls off in true style in a small and intimate salon of around seven tables.
I began the meal with a starter of pan-fried foie gras (goose liver) served with lemon thyme roasted pears in caramel, banyuls veloute - it was melt-in-the-mouth wonderful. My friend had salad of Walled Garden baby vegetables, crispy duck egg, caramlized hazelnuts and crisp sour dough - appreciative noises were soon coming from the other side of the table as she oohed and aahed.
For the main course I decided to go for something that I thought would be as unfussy as possible - the waiter had recommended it (always a good sign) - the navarin of cod with parsley creamed potato and Noilly Prat veloute. What I remember most about the dish was the unspoilt flavour of the cod - despite being surrounded by other flavours the freshness of the fish rang out. It was just fabulous.
My friend ordered butter poached breast of Label Anglais chicken, tortellini of sweetcorn, baby spinach and a sherry vinegar veloute - and loved it.
Dessert was going to be difficult - how could we possibly choose from the divine items on the menu. In the end I went for the waiter's recommendation again. The Coustillant of Peanut Butter Parfait and Berry Jam. The contrast of crunchy and smooth was wonderful. Usually after any dinner I slip back home and have a little tea and choccie. Not this night. I was staying at The Grove and there were Marathon bars in fridge, but you know what? I was sated.
I do think we will be seeing more about Chris Warwick as a chef in future - he's understated but solid and he has worked with Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing but is very unassuming. Having said that, he wasn't too shy to pop out at one point to see how his diners were getting along. He cares. And he can cook oh-so-well. You read about him on allaboutyou.com first!
Colette's prices: £49 for two courses and £59 for three courses - other tasting menus available which vary in price.
Liked this? You'll love this...
Our interview with Colette's chef Chris Warwick
Our review of The Grove and the Sequoia Spa
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