Michel Roux Senior on pastry, pork and success
The famous man of food tells Carol Muskoron how his father, a charcuterie, used every part of the pig, and talks about the passions in his life
If you've heard of a lot of Rouxs over the years but can't work out which one is which, you could be forgiven - there are quite a few famous culinary Rouxs. Michel Snr is one half the two-brother team of French chefs, the Roux brothers, who wowed London with its first Michelin-starred restaurant back in 1967. Michel and his brother Albert ran the legendary La Gavroche in Lower Sloane Street for many years and are considered the most influential chefs in the country. In 1972 they opened the Waterside Inn in Bray. They have trained over 800 young chefs under the prestigious Roux Scholarship. I caught up with Michel Snr, on his mobile phone as he was arriving in the UK from Switzerland where he now lives...
Q You have done so much in your distinguished life - what has truly given you the most pleasure?
A I think it's leading a team of people who know what they're doing. Teaching. I love teaching young people. Twenty percent of my year is spent passing on knowledge and skill. I organise the Roux Scholarship. My brother judges it. I love writing. I also love putting things together in a new way - new techniques in food.
Q Was there any one food masterpiece that stood out for you?
A Quite a few. One is a lobster dish that has been a classic for 24 years and is mentioned in the Michelin guide every year. It has been a favourite of those at the Waterside Inn for years - tronconnette of lobster.
Q How is your son Alain getting on at the Waterside Inn? Is he doing a good job?
A Well be must be. He's been there without me for four years. And the restaurant still holds three Michelin stars.
Q Did you expect him to go into food?
A No. he chose to, so here we are...
Q Do you miss working with your brother Albert? You probably don't see him so much now that you don't live in the UK...
A You always miss the best times of your life. We worked together for 15 years and I don't see him enough now. Albert lives in London. I live in the country - I am a very happy boy in the country. When we worked together we were younger and building a small empire. That was 20 years ago. I go to La Gavroche and see Michel Jnr sometimes. If Albert is there I give him a hug. We meet by luck. I once met him flying, we were on the same plane by coincidence.
Q Both your son and Albert's son are now running your award-winning restaurants - why has food been so important to you all?
A Because we were born to it. It's in our genes. I'm not saying we couldn't have done anything else, but we were born to be cooks. My father was a charcuterie - a maker of pork products. He use to buy pigs and use them from the foot to the nose to make paté, sausages, everything. When you are born into a family, you are attracted to the food industry.
Q Did you always know you'd be so successful or did it come as a surprise to you?
A No, no, no! I never thought about success. You must never think about success. You must just do what you like and if you're good enough to be a success, so be it. Don't try to be someone else.
Q What are you up to right now?
A My book, Pastry (Quadrille), has just come out and I am promoting that. I am going to Manchester today to give demonstrations of my pastry. Pastry is the love of my life. Pastry chef was my first job. I love writing books. It's is my tenth book in 26 years. I have sold 300,000 books on each title.
Q: I understand Albert's granddaughter is going to catering school. Does Alain have children who might continue the incredible Roux tradition?
A No is he is not married and has no kids, but he will start a family over the next few years. I am not hoping that his children will be cook's. Little Emilie, [Albert's granddaughter] is not only a darling but she loves food and it is lovely to see her working alongside her father.
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