A real taste of the seaside

Food for gastronomes

L'Enclume, Cavendish Street, Cartmel, Cumbria

Simon Rogan picked an unlikely spot in which to practise molecular gastronomy. The residents of Cumbrian villages are more familiar with pies and picnics than 14-course tasting menus featuring dishes such as Surrealists Nitro Slammer. But the innovative set menus (from £50) in this converted smithy (right) have become so popular that its multi-award-winning chef has abandoned the à la carte options. To sample Rogan's talents in a more conventional setting, visit Cartmel's bistro, Rogan and Company. Call 01539 536362 or visit lenclume.co.uk.