Guilt-free fish: sustainable shopping

This summer saw the release of the world's first major documentary exposing the impact that over-fishing is having on our oceans. 'The End of the Line,' has caused quite a flap, prompting high profile celebs, like actress Greta Scacchi, to make waves by stripping naked and posing with a large slippery cod. But it's not just the worthy and famous who should be worried. This is a problem that affects all of us. Every time we open a tin of tuna or tuck into a hearty portion of cod and chips, we are potentially contributing to a global crisis.

If current methods of commercial fishing continue unabated, we could run out of fish by 2048. The Marine Conservation Society (MCS) says that 69 types of seafood available in the UK are being fished in an unsustainable way, and could soon become extinct.

About 90 per cent of large fish have been fished out of our seas by trawlers that scour the seafloor at the rate equivalent to farmers ploughing up a field seven times a year. Worse still, some 80 per cent of the catch gets thrown back dead, to ensure that the fishermen do not exceed government fishing quotas.

Yet, it's a well known fact that fish is good for us - it's packed with omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins boosting both heart and brain health. Indeed, the government says we should eat at least two portions of fish a week to remain healthy.

So on the one hand we are told that we should eat fish, and on the other we are told that we are bad for doing so. So just what is the true picture? Just what fish can we safely eat that will compromise neither our health needs or our morals?

Fortunately, not all species are under threat, and even if your favourite fish is at risk, it maybe possible to still eat it guilt-free provided you check that it comes from a sustainable source.

So for example North Sea cod stocks have declined to such an extent that they should be left alone to try to recover, however it is okay to buy cod caught by Icelandic fleets.  Iceland still has a healthy fish stock, its fisheries are well-managed and its fleets use responsible methods.

Likewise Alaska also has a healthy stock of fish and so it's fine to buy salmon from Alaskan fisheries where careful monitoring allows stocks to repopulate.

However, the same cannot be said for wild Atlantic salmon where stocks are declining. Other fish to avoid include blue fin and big eye tuna, sturgeon products, common skate, marlin, shark, ling, dogfish, North Sea haddock, and Chilean sea bass.

One other thing to consider when buying fish, is its mercury content. Tuna, and swordfish both have high mercury levels and the European Union's Food Safety Authority suggests that pregnant women in particular should limit their consumption of these fish to prevent damage to the unborn baby. Given that both species are endangered, this gives you a double incentive to eat less of it.

That said, not all tuna are at risk. While the popular blue fin tuna is off the menu, yellowfin and Skipjack tuna, remain plentiful - but make sure it is labelled as line-caught, because commercial nets can trap dolphin, turtles and sharks.

Another way to eat your fish dish without qualms is to seek alternative fish that taste similar to your old favourites. So for example Pollack is rather like cod and is actually higher in omega-3 fatty acids. Other white fish alternatives include tilapia, whiting and coley.

An alternative to swordfish, is mahi mahi - which while little known, is sustainable and tastes good barbecued.

Other fish on the Marine Conservation Society's safe list, include trout, sea bass and snapper, mackerel, pilchards and farmed cod and salmon. Farmed salmon actually contains more omega-3 fatty acids than wild salmon, although it is higher in fat content.

If you are unsure what is off or on the menu then ask your fishmonger where the catch comes from, if he doesn‘t know, then don‘t buy it. Also read the labels on supermarket sold fish. Many supermarkets now have a sustainable fish policy.  Waitrose, for example, has a clear mission to only sell responsibly caught fish. This includes ensuring that all species are fully traceable from catch to consumer to ensure that no illegally caught fish are sold. Marks & Spencer has a similar policy.

The British government is also committed to protecting fish stocks and Defra, the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, has set out a plan called: ‘Fisheries 2027' which spells out its vision for safeguarding future fishing stock.

But really, it's up to us - the consumers - to do our bit. And if we do, it will ensure that there are still plenty more fish left in the sea will benefit us all, so it's got to be worth it!

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