Problem skin?
Solutions for persistent adult acne and spot-prone skin
Everyone gets the odd spot because everyone has oil glands and follicles that can get clogged up. However, by the time you're old enough to be sporting your first wrinkles, you don't expect to have frequent flare-ups or indeed persistent acne.
Acne is linked to genetics, but the exact cause isn't known. Stress can be a factor, says dermatologist Dr Ginny Hubbard, as it causes the release of androgens - hormones known to predispose to spots. There is no convincing evidence that diet affects acne, she says, though interestingly for city dwellers, pollution may be a factor.
Using overly rich cosmetic products can exacerbate things too. What is known about spots is that increased oil production, when mixed with dead skin cells can form a plug in which bacteria, specifically the Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes) breeds, causing inflammation.
How to deal with spot prone skin
Treat your skin gently, avoiding harsh cleansers such as soap, as these will only encourage sebum production by stripping the skin, which will then produce more sebum to compensate. Avoid rich moisturising creams too, especially those containing cocoa and coconut butter or oils, and go for a lighter lotion, gel or serum instead. Beneficial ingredients to look out for include benzoyl peroxide, which fights the P.acnes bacteria, retinol, glycolic and salicylic acid, which help to unblock pores, increase cell turnover and reduce oil and anti-bacterial tea tree oil.
Recommended products to treat spots and acne
Neutrogena's Visibly Clear range, which uses salicylic acid and also aloe and chamomile to soothe the skin
Olay Total Effects anti-ageing blemish care, with salicylic acid, as well as niacinamide, which has proven anti-ageing effects and is also used by dermatologists in the treatment of mild acne
md formulations Adult Anti-Blemish Kit, (stockist www.hqhair.com) a three step kit providing anti-blemish, anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties
Estee Lauder Sparkling Clean Purifying Exfoliator Mask
Top tips
As well as choosing the right skincare products, it is a good idea to use oil-free cosmetics and also to change your pillowcases regularly.
Skin treatments
There are many treatments available at skin clinics and spas that could help. One with good reports is Omilux Blue Treatment. It reaches the bacteria under the skin, killing it, but without damaging the surrounding skin. And it doesn't hurt either! A course is necessary and mostly it offers considerable improvement without side effects of strong drugs or creams. Contact www.courthouseclinics.co.uk for more information.
If self treatment isn't successful enough though, do see your GP for a referral to a dermatologist, or visit a dermatologist or cosmetic doctor privately, as there are many treatments, from antibiotics to retinoid gels and peels that are now available and so effective.
Tablet treatment under a specialist may involve a course of antibiotics (for at least four months to have an effect on acne) or the Pill, of a type known to help with acne, such as Dianette. You may also be prescribed Isotretinoin (Roaccutane) for severe acne.
'Dermatologists usually use a multi-pronged approach,' says Dr Ginny Hubbard 'and most treatments take a few months to work - so be patient for the best results.'
