Anti-ageing skincare explained

Vitamin A is the champion ingredient of anti-ageing skincare, but what else should you look for? Eve Cameron explains

Vitamin A has recently been in the news with its potent anti-ageing abilities confirmed - remember that sell-out Boots No7 serum? However, there are other ingredients and products that can help to stave off and repair the signs of ageing too. Read on…

 

Sunscreen

 

Top of the list is sunscreen, as sun exposure breaks down collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (which holds water and gives volume to the skin). Most dermatologists recommend wearing an SPF15 on a daily basis, whether that's in a sunscreen over your moisturiser or built-in to your daily facial moisturiser or foundation. This will help protect your skin from 'accidental' exposure to the sun, such as when you are sitting in the park on a sunny day in your lunch break. These aren't strong enough when sunbathing on the beach though – always go for a specific sun protection cream. To minimise damage you'll want a higher factor too – at least SPF25 – and to limit the amount of time you spend baking.

 

Here's what else to look out for on the beauty cream label to ensure you look younger for longer

 

Anti-oxidants

 

These help protect against damage caused by free radicals, rogue molecules stimulated by a variety of things including UV light, pollution and cigarette smoke. As Clinique's Executive Director Biological Research and Development, Tom Mammone explains, 'Sunscreen is key, but the sun will always get through, so it's important to have another layer to give an extra protective boost in the form of anti-oxidants.'

 

Anti-oxidants to look out for include coenzyme Q10, lycopene, green tea, pomegranate and raspberry extract, idebenone, kojic acid and vitamins C and E. They are in many moisturisers and creams and best used in the morning for their protective benefits.

 

Peptides

 

Peptides send a signal to start collagen repair and, unlike vitamin-A-derivatives such as retinol, rarely cause irritation to the skin. Olay use peptide technology in their Regenerist range and compare their ingredient to a retinol-containing product, claiming similar wrinkle reducing performance. Estee Lauder, Ren and Lancome are just three other brands that use peptides.

 

Alpha-hydroxy acids

 

These include glycolic acid and lactic acid, and are useful for exfoliating the top layer of skin to make it smoother and more glowing, therefore making it appear less lined. There's also evidence they can stimulate collagen production. They can feel tingly on your skin in higher concentrations and so are best used in a mask or peel kit. These ingredients are also used in far higher concentrations by dermatologists to give a deeper peel.

 

There are also beta-hydroxy acids, of which salicylic acid is one, which have the same skin-rejuvenating effects. They are a major ingredient in the products of brands such as Clinique.

 

Just introduced

 

Big in the US, there are now also a few creams with human growth factors (hgfs) available in the UK. Not quite as Frankenstein-y as they sound, hgfs are bioengineered compounds that act as cell messengers to stimulate natural functions in the skin that slow with age. Skin Medica TNS is a US import that uses the technology, with a day moisturiser costing about £45 (www.skinbrands.co.uk).

 

L'Oreal's newest technological innovation, finding its way into its various brands from Lancome to Biotherm to L'Oreal Paris, is a molecule called Pro-Xylane, the result of seven years research. It's an active sugar derivative that helps to restore the skin's basic structure by helping it stabilize and retain moisture and so plumping the skin. In the new L'Oreal Paris Derma Genesis range it's combined with hyaluronic acid for optimum hydration and radiance.

 

Find out more about other anti-ageing ingredients here