Are you using the right cleanser?

Cleansing is an important part of your skincare routine, but it's how you cleanse that really matters explains Eve Cameron

I once read that for every night you go to bed with your makeup on, your skin ages by eight days. Motivation indeed to reach for the cleanser and cotton wool, especially after your 30s when your skin looks a little less radiant than it used to. There's no doubt that cleansing is an important part of a skincare routine, and how you cleanse matters too – use the wrong products for your skin and it will soon let you know via sensitivity, dryness or breakouts.

Gentle cleansing is key whatever your skin type, as harsh products, including soap, strip the skin of its natural oils and disturb its barrier function. This can make your skin feel taut and uncomfortable or worse, trigger sensitivity leaving the skin sore, red and irritated. This in turn can have graver knock-on effects as experts have linked skin irritation to premature ageing. Even if your skin tends to be oily and maybe spot-prone, over-cleansing and stripping away natural oils only encourages your skin to produce more sebum leading an oilier, more spotty complexion.

Which cleanser? 

Olay dermatologist Dr Ginny Hubbard advises 'Creamy cleansers are ideal for dry or sensitive skin types as they are more moisturising. Cleansing wipes are ideal for travel and also have the gentle exfoliating effect of the cloth'. For those who like cleansing with water, there are wash-off cleansing formulations for every skin type - not just the traditional oily - and a whole new trend in 'cleansing waters' – light, non-rinse liquids that aren't water but feel like it. They remove all but the heaviest makeup. Top facialists advocate massage as part of a cleansing routine

As makeup artist Bobbi Brown points out, it's important to try a cleanser to know if you'll like it, because as well as choosing a formulation to suit your skin type, how it feels, how it smells and even whether you like its packaging will influence you. She believes you should have a couple of different cleansers to suit your skin's changing needs - for instance if it feels drier one day or needs an extra deep cleanse another.

To tone or not to tone? 

Should you use toner after cleansing? Most of the top facialists I've spoken to think it's unnecessary if you've cleansed your face properly. Besides, many contain alcohol that strips those natural oils. They all advocate massage as part of a cleansing routine however to boost the circulation and bring nutrients to the complexion, leaving it fresh and glowing.

Try these simple moves from leading beauty expert and therapist Eve Lom:

1. Place your fingers in the centre of your forehead, from brows up to the hairline. Press firmly, holding for a count of five, then release. Move your fingers apart by a centimetre, press, hold and release. Repeat moving outwards towards your temples.

2. Place three fingers under your eyes either side of the nose. Your hands should be almost flat. Apply pressure, hold for a count of five and release. Continue in centimetre steps working down to the jawline.

3. Place your fingers above your upper lip, press firmly, holding for five counts and release. Continue along to the corners of the mouth.

4. Place your thumbs under your chin and the fingers on top. Press, hold for five counts and release. Now continue pressing and holding along the jawline working out towards the ears.

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