How to choose and use foundation

All About You online 06.03.2008

Wear it well and you'll look a million dollars. Get it wrong and you'll look more like a pantomime dame. Eve Cameron takes you through the pitfalls.

Concealer, compact, foundation stick, foundation bottle The thing to remember about foundation is that it's not a mask. Although designed to cover flaws and even out your skin tone, it must appear natural to look good.

Choosing the right shade

Choosing the right colour foundation is imperative and, frankly, takes a bit of time. As make-up artist Bobbi Brown says in her book 'Beauty Evolution' (HarperResource), 'you're going to wear foundation on your face, so matching it to the back of your hand or the inside of your arm is pointless.'

The idea is to find a foundation that blends into your skin exactly. When buying a new foundation, try out your choices along the neck or jawline and then look at them in a natural light, as well as the artificial light of the shop (take a compact make-up mirror with you).

Matching to skin type

As well as choosing your perfect shade match, it's essential to choose a foundation according to your skin type says make-up artist Ariane Poole. As a general rule, the drier your skin, the creamier the foundation should be – you could also look out for added moisturising ingredients.

Beware powdery foundations, as they will only emphasise dehydration. An oilier skin type needs oil-free formulations that also contain mattifying ingredients (you might also try applying an oil-control product to your t-zone before your foundation). Combination skins need balancing – a description that you should find on the label or within the name of a product.

Many foundations now claim to be for all skin types, which is fine as long as you are not excessively dry or oily skinned. On top of your basic skin type you may have other make-up concerns, which you should factor in. For example, you may need a foundation that's really long-lasting without the need for touch-ups, or you may want a foundation that's anti-ageing, blurring fine lines and giving a lifting effect. Foundation technology is now so advanced that, with some legwork, it's possible to find a product that could almost have been custom-blended for you. Having said that, as your skin's condition changes throughout the seasons you may find you'll want several foundation options, such as a darker shade and lighter finish product in the summer, to make-up that's paler with more coverage in the mid-winter.

How to apply

When you've found the right foundation the secret to a natural, flawless finish is in the application. Ariane Poole is a great believer in using your fingers to apply make-up, though recommends using a flat foundation brush if you want an airbrushed evening look. Sponges tend to soak up too much product, though you can use them damp to create a fine layer.

You can apply foundation all over your face or simply where it's needed to even out your skin. You don't need to apply it all down your neck either unless you have a great disparity in colour in your skin tone.

As for powder, be careful not to be over-generous in its use, as it can be ageing and easily looks cakey and mask-like. While it can help foundation last longer and offer some coverage, its main use is to prevent shine and to that end it's best kept just to the t-zone. Loose powder applied with a large brush gives the sheerest effect, but a compact might be more practical for retouching during the day. Colourwise, go for something matching your skin tone (a powder with yellow tones is warming for all skin shades) or use transclucent.

Top buys

So which foundation should you choose? Check out Eve's top 10 recommendations.

Custom blend?

How about having your foundation custom-blended for your skin tone? It's surprisingly easy to do and affordable - find out more here