How to handle sensitive skin
Not just the plague of teenagers, sensitive skin can cause problems at any age. Eve Cameron explains what to do
Does your skin react to certain skincare products or foods? Do you get red, itchy, irritable patches? Perhaps your skin frequently feels dry, tight and uncomfortable? If any of this sounds familiar, you have sensitive skin and you'll know it needs careful handling.
This skin type can be genetic or it can be the result of exposure to irritants, which may be anything from household chemicals to ingredients such as lanolin or fragrances in skincare products. Reactions can be mild or severe. The environment plays a part too. Cold, windy weather is especially harsh on the skin, leaving it dry or, worse, sore and inflamed. These kind of atmospheric conditions also come at a time when the skin might not have recovered from the damage done by UV rays in summer, so your skin is extra vulnerable.Cold windy weather is especially harsh on the skin, leaving it dry or, worse, sore and inflamed
Whatever the cause of sensitivity, the result is that the skin's barrier function is weakened, which increases the amount of water lost from the skin, allowing dehydration to set in. While the skin does have defence mechanisms, including the increased production of natural moisturising factor (NMF), this can take a few days to get going, by which time your skin can already have started misbehaving. Dehydrated skin becomes vulnerable to cracking and allows potential irritants to penetrate, setting in motion a cycle of stress, irritation and damage. Experts think that this constant low-grade inflammation also has a negative effect on collagen production, leading to skin ageing.
Your sensitive skin strategy
If you have persistent, severe allergies you should consult your GP who will refer you to a dermatologist or an allergy clinic. Sometimes though you can identify your triggers yourself and then it's a case of avoiding them. As far as skincare products go, it's worth reading labels to see if you can establish any patterns. Beneficial ingredients to look out for are listed below.
On a day-to-day basis, you should aim to hydrate your skin whilst also strengthening the barrier and using skin-calming products. Gentle cleansers are best and you should avoid using soap, as the detergents strip the skin of natural oils. Avoid toners with alcohol for the same reason. If you want a spritz of something refreshing on your face, try a floral water instead.
Creams containing ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol (all found naturally in the skin) will help to boost its barrier function. Calming, anti-inflammatory ingredients to look out for on cosmetic labels include aloe vera, licorice extract, mushroom extracts, chamomile, green tea, evening primrose oil, basil, oats and red clover.
Avoid long, hot baths, detergents such as lauryl sulfates and heavily fragranced products.
Choosing products designed for sensitive skin is wise, but there's still a chance you may have a reaction. That's why it's a good idea to do a patch test before buying a new product – try it on the inside of your wrist or on your jaw and wait 24 hours to be sure it suits you.
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