The clever woman's guide to smart beauty buys

Want to ensure you're getting your money's worth on beauty buys? We asked industry insiders to go back to basics and reveal how to take the stress out of your beauty regime and the strain off your purse. By Catherine Brien

If you feel in a dilemma as regards skincare, you're not alone. Trying to balance wanting to look good for your age with knowing exactly where you're willing to splash your cash is causing a shift in focus in our beauty buys.

There's no denying the persuasive power of skincare - market research company Mintel estimates we'll spend a whopping £718 million on it in the UK this year alone, compared with £631 million five years ago.

But it's also predicting that by 2013 the market for moisturiser will have risen by over £100 million - and sales of toners will have plummeted. So are we cutting back where we need to on beauty buys, or will we come to wish we'd saved somewhere else?

 

Cleanser

 

Who needs it? Even if you don't wear makeup, everyone needs to use cleanser in the evening. ‘We can't avoid sweat, oil, dirt and pollution building up on skin during the day,' says facialist Nichola Joss. ‘It's essential to remove it so the complexion stays looking fresh and to help avoid breakouts and accelerated ageing.'

 

What to look for? Skincare companies are now offering a wider variety of textures than ever before. Balms such as Darphin Aromatic Cleansing Balm, £53.83 (0870 034 2566), are the latest trend, and ideal for women with drier and more sensitive skins who find a dampened muslin cloth gives a more comfortable finish than a splash of water.

Oils are also big news, and suit even oily skins as they slip in and out of pores to remove debris. Try Bobbi Brown Cleansing Oil, £26. Lighter formulations, such as foam, are best kept for morning when the skin simply needs freshening up.

 

See our top 10 cleansers for every skin type

 

Toner

 

Who needs it? We may think toners are little more than expensive, turbo-charged water, but it turns out we should all be using them. ‘Toners remove any remaining makeup and cleanser, ensuring pores are squeaky clean,' advises Noella Gabriel, director of Treatment & Product Development for Elemis. ‘They are also wonderfully cooling for skin that is red, hot and sensitive.'

 

What to look for? ‘Choose an alcohol-free toner,' says Noella. ‘Alcohol gives the immediate feeling of clean skin but has the counter reaction of over-stimulating it. If your skin is oily or combination this will increase the oil flow - if you have very dry skin it will make it feel drier and tighter.'

 

Exfoliator

 

Who needs it? As we age, our speed of skin renewal slows down - so dead, dull cells hang around for longer. Without help from an exfoliator the complexion starts to look lacklustre, and skincare with active ingredients can't reach its target zone as easily.

‘Exfoliation is necessary all year round, but even more so during hot, humid months,' says Clinique's guiding dermatologist Dr David Orentreich. ‘When skin is under attack from UV rays, it will not shed as often as it should. This could result in clogged skin and even breakouts at the end of the summer and into autumn.'

 

What to look for? Exfoliators fall into two groups. Chemical versions - based around ingredients including salicylic acid, beta and alpha hydroxy acids - loosen the glue that holds cells together so they naturally slough off faster. These can be used as frequently as twice a day but can make skin sensitive, so you may need to build up your usage gradually.

Try Clinique Turnaround Concentrate, £30. Manual exfoliants such as Elemis Skin Buff, £21, use small granules that do a similar job as you massage them over the skin and only need to be used weekly.

 

Moisturiser

 

Who needs it? Moisturiser acts as a barrier - holding in water and keeping out aggressors. In short, we all need a day cream. ‘When dry cracks appear on the skin, it's hard to keep out environmental elements like pollution, which damage skin,' explains Dr Kay Baxter, consultant dermatologist at the Foundation Skin Clinic in Harrogate. ‘Combined with the stress that skin comes under daily, it can lead to irritation and sensitivity that's difficult to reverse.'

 

What to look for? While anti-ageing prompts most new skincare launches, women's top priority is to tackle dryness, according to Mintel. ‘You don't need to spend a great deal,' adds Dr Baxter. ‘Ranges such as E45, La Roche Posay and Vichy are really effective at keeping skin protected and hydrated and won't cause any sensitivity. It's simple - try a lighter formula if your skin is on the oilier side and something richer if it's dry.'

 

Night cream

 

Who needs it? It's not essential, but your skin could benefit - particularly if it's dry or ageing. While day creams include protective ingredients such as sunscreens, night-time versions give skin a chance to repair: ‘They tend to be thicker because they're packed with super-nourishing ingredients,' says facialist Tracey Malone.

 

What to look for? Active ingredients such as retinol and peptides are designed to work with the skin's own overnight repair system. Try Prescriptives Comfort Night, £35 (0870 034 2566), which aims to soothe as it firms with collagen-boosting peptides, or No 7's Advanced Hydration Night Cream, £15.50. Both are rich and pampering.

 

Do you really need night cream? Find out here

 

Eye cream

 

Who needs it? Surprisingly, you could save some money. Says Dr Patrick Bowler, medical director at Court House Clinics: ‘Vitamins A, C and E are helpful against ageing, but you can find these in facial moisturiser. Apply a little near the eye and, unless any irritation occurs, stick with that.'

 

What to look for? If you are worried about sensitivity, try vitamin-enriched Vitage Age Defence Eye Cream, £34.50, www.cosmestore.co.uk. If pigmentation is a problem, the idebenone in Prevage Eye Anti-Aging Moisturizing Treatment, £75 (large Boots stores or 020 7574 2714), has been shown to help lighten discolouration. Olay Regenerist Eye Derma Pod, £29.99, has a smoothing, line-filling, anti-puffiness action.

 

The truth about eye cream - read more here

 

Don't waste precious products. Here's how much to use and where to apply it:

 

Eye cream: use half a pomegranate seed size blob below the lower eyelid, gently tapping it along the socket bone towards the outer corner, then one under the eyebrow.

Moisturiser: warm a cranberry-size amount in the palm and dot on cheeks, forehead and chin. Massage in with circular movements.

Exfoliator: for scrubs, smooth a grape-size amount evenly over skin and massage lightly, avoiding eye area. For chemical formulas, use the same amount as a moisturiser.

Shower gel: massage a lychee-size amount evenly over wet skin.

Body cream: use an apricot-size blob for the whole body.

 

Skincare myths and misconceptions

 

Soap is an effective cleanser

‘Soap disturbs the skin's pH balance and is drying,' warns Dr Baxter. ‘This allows yeast and bacteria on the surface to increase, which makes skin more susceptible to infection, inflammation and sensitivity. Only ever use PH neutral soap'.

 

Toners can shrink pores

‘This is impossible,' says Noella Gabriel. ‘You can keep pores clean and they may appear smaller, but you simply cannot close them.'

 

If you don't see immediate results, it doesn't work

‘It takes time to see improvement with treatment products,' says Dr Baxter. ‘The skin's top layer of cells turn over every two to four weeks, so you have to be patient as the effect is cumulative.'

 

Can you mix and match skincare brands?

 

‘I feel it's a myth that you can't mix and match brands,' says facialist Emma Hardie. ‘If you like a cleanser from one range but the moisturiser makes you break out, try another one. However, I would recommend you don't mix ingredients such as AHAs, retinol and glycolic acid. Too many very active ingredients can cause irritation and sensitivity.'

 

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