What's face mapping and do you need it?

With the market for facials becoming ever more competitive it's worth finding a spa that offers in-depth skin analysis as part of the package. By Bernadette Fallon

I decided I needed some face mapping. I wanted somebody to look closely at my skin and give it a thorough analysis. My skin is quite dry in patches and I'd had enough of facials where I'd been told this, along with a vague suggestion to ‘make sure to moisturise'. No, this time I wanted to go deeper.

 

Ark spa and skin care centres in west London offer face mapping as part of their standard facials. After cleansing, my eyes were covered and the therapist carried out a close-up skin examination through an intensely illuminated large magnifying disc. This allowed her to identify areas of extreme dryness and congestion on my forehead, nose, chin and just along the jaw bone. In fact she was puzzled at the extent of the congestion - had I recently had a cold or flu, she wondered - as my skin was so dehydrated, and also very tried. No, but I had taken two two-hour flights in the last four days I explained. This seemed to provide a suitable reason, lucky I decided to have the mapping!

 

Targeted facial

 

This detailed analysis allowed her to work in the areas of most need, which was nice and efficient and saved time-wasting. I liked the targeted approach. It also meant my nose - as a key damaged area - got its first ever massage! Then it was time for decongestant removal, followed by deep exfoliation, steaming and all-over facial massage. Finally a ‘double mask' provided the extra hydration my skin needed - a thick layer of cream mask, sealed with a net, followed by another layer of cream.

 

The spa uses Dermalogica products, currently the number one professional-use-only products in the US. All products are researched and developed by the International Dermal Institute, incorporating treatments, techniques, formulations and ingredients derived from a worldwide network of research and training.

 

Expert advice

 

Sally Penford, education manager at the International Dermal Institute, offers the following advice for dehydrated skin: ‘Unlike a dry skin that lacks oil, dehydrated skin lacks water and can affect any skin type at any age. Dry skin has a crepey appearance, with fine dry lines particularly evident around the eyes and mouth.

 

‘To keep skin moist and supple cleanse with an acid balanced cleanser that will not strip and dry the skin like soap. Next, spritz with a hydrating toner to saturate the skin with moisture. Then seal in with that all important moisturiser, which will protect the skin and fill in those tiny gaps in the epidermal cell layers that appear as fine lines.

 

Dry skin? How to hydrate it

 

‘Look for ingredients in skincare products such as hyalauronic acid for super hydration, and humectants such as honey, lactic acid and panthenol to bind water to the skin,' says Sally. ‘And remember to drink plenty of plain water, keep air moist with windows ajar, and eat plenty of oily fish to maintain the skins barrier lipids.'

 

For more advice on coping with dehydrated, dry or sensitive skin, read our specialist feature on Coping with sensitive skin

 

Therapist tip: I'm quite happy with the skincare products I have at home and tend to have a few different brands on the go at once. But my therapist advised against this, explaining it is better to use products from the same brand as they have been created to work together. She also advises using flowing strokes when applying moisturiser. Not only is it more efficient, covering a larger area of the skin all at once, the massaging action will also be beneficial in tightening the skin.

 

Remember, if you have dry or sensitive skin, vigorous rubbing will only irritate it further - use sweeping strokes instead. And, ‘studies have shown that for maximum effectiveness you should apply your moisturise within two minutes of cleansing,' says Sally Penford.

 

I leave with my very own facial mapping guide, highlighting the areas of my face that need most care. Suitable products are recommended to treat each area - these are Dermalogica products, but the information can usefully be applied to any products of course.

 

Therapist tip: An intensive cleansing routine is key to dealing with congested skin. And remember, when removing makeup, don't overlook the hairline where makeup easily lodges and where hair products can also sit on the skin.

 

Ark skincare centres are located in West London, for more information and contact details visit the website at www.arkhealthandbeauty.com; Facials, including face mapping, from £70

 

Read last month's spa and skincare review

 

 

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