How to deal with thinning hair

Many women will experience hair loss as they get older. SHE's Beauty Director Eve Cameron explains what causes it and how you can help prevent it

Our hair is inextricably bound up with our femininity, sexuality and self-image and it's something we often take for granted. Until, that is, we start to notice our crowning glory is looking thinner than it used to be, or that, alarmingly, large amounts of hair are falling out during shampooing or styling.

 

A certain amount of hair loss is normal, of course, as each hair follicle produces around 20 new hairs during its lifespan. When a hair reaches its optimum growth, it sheds and a new one grows in its place. And, as we get older, our hair can also lose its volume, which can be mistaken for thinning hair. In fact, it's just that the diameter of the hairs gets smaller, so the bottom line is that at 40 you simply don't have the fullness you had at 20. And these thinner, weaker strands won't grow to the same length as the younger, ‘wider' strands.

 

According to some studies and reports, female hair loss seems to be on the increase, yet many women find their GPs are unsympathetic, putting it down to that catch-all ‘stress'. It's true that stress could be a factor, partly because it can increase your levels of male hormones called androgens which, if you have hair follicles that are susceptible to them, could cause hair loss.

 

But don't be too alarmed. Thinning hair doesn't mean that baldness is imminent. There are myriad reasons why your hair may fall out and getting the right diagnosis sooner, rather than later, is vital for improving (if not completely resolving) the problem. But if you're really concerned, get a referral from your GP to a dermatologist specialising in hair loss, or see a trichologist. The Institute of Trichologists' website at www.trichologists.org.uk has details.

 

In the meantime, here are some common causes and solutions within your grasp.

 

Low iron levels

 

Anaemia is an often overlooked cause of hair loss, according to trichologist Philip Kingsley.

Solution: Have a blood test to check your iron (haemoglobin) levels and get your ferritin levels analysed too. Ferritin is an iron storage protein that plays a part in the production of hair cells. If it is low, or even at the lower end of average, it could be worthwhile taking iron supplements - and the results could become apparent within months. But be aware that iron sulphate supplements can cause constipation and iron-related hair loss tends to be more common in vegetarians.

 

Low thyroid levels

 

Over-exercise and frequent dieting may have an effect on your thyroid function - and thyroid problems can have an impact on your hair, usually causing quite dramatic hair fall rather than just slow thinning.

Solution: Again, blood tests will reveal your thyroid status and thyroid hormones can be prescribed if necessary. Philip Kingsley's team is working with an endocrinologist at University College London Hospital to investigate whether the topical application of triiodothyronine (T3), the thyroid hormone most likely to affect the hair follicles, can reduce hair loss.

 

Poor diet

 

Insufficient levels of protein consumption can lead to thinning as protein is vital for the formation of keratin, which is the main component of hair.

Solution: You should be able to get enough protein from your diet by eating meat, eggs, cheese, nuts and fish. The B vitamins, especially B5, are believed to play an important role in hair growth, elasticity and strength. Rich sources include eggs, nuts, beans and wholemeal bread.

 

Fluctuating hormones

 

Many women experience hair loss after having a baby.This is because the high levels of oestrogen present during pregnancy keep the follicles in their growth phase, so the hair that would normally shed during that period isn't released. There can then be a sudden and distressing loss of hair around six weeks or so after the birth. This shedding can last for a few months, although the hair will grow back in time.

Solution: Good nutrition will help and the Pill can be beneficial too, especially those such as Dianette, which contain anti-androgens (antimale hormones). HRT often has a positive effect, but some of the drugs used may contribute to hair fall, so discuss what you are taking with your doctor. Thinning hair is often associated with polycystic ovary syndrome, which can be treated with drugs and a topical application of anti-androgens.

 

Genetic predisposition

 

Androgenetic alopecia, or malepattern hair loss, is genetic and not limited to men. In women, it manifests itself in a thinning of the hair over most of the scalp.

Solution: The anti-androgen cyproterone acetate, which is found in Dianette, can help. Alopecia areata, sudden hair loss in patches, is thought to be triggered by stress, particularly in people who have a genetic susceptibility, but the hair will usually grow back.

 

How to make your hair appear fuller

 

You can dramatically add volume with the right styling products and techniques. Dr Frauke Neuser, P&G Beauty's scientific communications manager for haircare in Europe, explains: "Styling methods that add volume (such as backcombing or heated rollers) tend to be stressful for hair, so after every shampoo use conditioning products to protect the cuticle layers and help prevent further damage.

A volumising mousse is one of the best products to provide root lift and, thereby, overall volume. Other products, such as hairspray, work at setting and preserving the volume achieved via blow-drying and styling by weaving a fine net structure to hold the hair in place."

 

Good products for thicker hair

 

Look out for Pantene Pro-V Volume & Body Conditioner, £1.89, and Pantene Pro-V Volume and Body Seriously Body Boosting Mousse, £2.99; www.pantene.co.uk  

We also like Boots Expert Leave-in Thickening Conditioner, £2.93; www.boots.com

And always use a protective spray before blowdrying, such as John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Blow Dry Lotion, £5.37; www.johnfrieda.co.uk

 

What the stylist says

 

Alain Pichon, creative stylist at L'Oréal Paris has the following tips:

 

1. Check your hairbrush to see if it has rough areas that could damage the cuticles. A natural bristle brush is a gentle choice. Try Mason Pearson Pure Bristle Sensitive SB3, £44 - pricey but top quality.

2. If you have even a slight wave, use L'Oréal Paris Studio Line Curl Power Curl Controlling Crème, £4.29, on wet hair before going to bed and you'll wake up with wavy hair, which gives a greater appearance of volume.

www.loreal.co.uk

3. When colouring your hair, stick to natural shades and avoid dark colours, which will emphasise thinning against your scalp. The mid to dark blonde range is usually most flattering. Try L'Oréal Paris Casting Crème Gloss, £5.86.

4. If you have short hair, highlighting the tips and leaving the roots darker will make it appear fuller. But avoid having too many short layers as it will just look wispy.

5. While highlights can give the appearance of thicker hair, they are damaging, so try not to have them too often and use lots of conditioning products.

 

For more advice on how to beat thinning hair, see our top 20 tips here

 

 

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