How to...deal with everyday repairs

Prima online 27.04.2007

Missing a button? With a little bit of know-how, you can side-step the repair shop and save a few pounds

fabric scissors and cotton Repairing or replacing a zip
You may be able to repair a zip even if only as a temporary measure. First, unpick the stitching around the bottom of the zip. Remove the bottom stop with pliers. Slide the runner down to the bottom of zip and carefully slide opposite side of zip back into the runner until teeth engage again. Carefully slide the runner up the zip. Using double thread, work a strong bar tack across the bottom of the zip to create a new bottom stop. Re-stitch around bottom of zip.
If the zip is beyond repair, unpick the stitching around it and any facing or waistband across the top. Insert a new zip in the same way as the original, or take the easy way out and see if your local dry-cleaners will do the job for you.

Repairing a tear
Lay the garment wrong side up on the ironing board. Butt the edges of the tear up tightly together and press. Cut a piece of iron-on mending tape larger than the tear and iron on. On the right side, work small stitches backwards and forwards across the tear, as shown, by hand or with a three-step zig-zag stitch on the machine, using thread to match your fabric, then press. Iron-on mending tape is available from
John Lewis (0845 604 9049). If you can't get a good match,
use fusible fleece to fix a piece of matching fabric in place.

Re-stitching a pulled hem
If necessary, first neaten raw edge of fabric, then pin hem back in position. Lift edge of hem and catchstitch by picking up just one or two threads of fabric on the garment, then a thread or two on the hem. Work stitches about 1cm apart and keep them loose to prevent puckering. Stitching should be hardly visible on the right side. Alternatively, use fusible webbing to re-fix the hem.

Replacing a button
If the fabric is torn, first repair it as above. Using double thread, sew on the button loosely, stitching several times in the same direction as on the rest of the buttons. Wind the thread around these stitches between fabric and button to form a shank. This allows the fabric to lie smoothly when buttons are fastened. Finish stitching securely on wrong side of garment.