How to... winter prune

Bending and stretching as you winter prune overgrown, dead, damaged or diseased branches from your trees and shrubs is a good winter workout - and great for your plants. But not all trees and shrubs need pruning. Here's a guide to what you need to chop.

Dead wood

Any dead material needs cutting right back to the healthy wood beneath.

Damage

Stems or branches that have snapped not only look unsightly, but also provide perfect entry points for disease. Cut back damaged wood to a node or even right back to the main stem if necessary.

Disease

Any limbs that look diseased need to be cut right back to healthy wood to ensure it doesn't spread. If you're unsure, don't take any risks and cut the branch back right to the main stem.

Crossing branches

When branches cross into each other, they undoubtedly rub together, especially when it's windy, causing an unwelcome entry point for disease. Cut the branch that is growing inward the most, straight back to a main stem, or trunk to free up movement for the other branch.

Dense, thick tangles

Too much growth at the centre of a plant stops air circulating around the branches, and therefore encourages damp and disease. Clear through the growth, aiming for an open centre to your shrub or tree. This is particularly important for apple and pear trees.

Weak growth

Weak branches simply divert energy from strong healthy limbs, so cut them out to divert this energy into good wood and ensure a stronger tree or shrub.

Tip:Always cut back to either a leaf or a bud, or on larger limbs close to the trunk.

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